I’ve spent a good couple of hours trying to track down this information so I have to resort to asking.
When calibrating the z reset position every guide I can find states to set it at 1877 for PDMS and then print out the DIY test to measure the 4 cylinders. Let’s say the cylinders are uniformly short at 10.5mm with an easy-level-plate. I go into the settings, click to reduce the z reset to 1875 to increase the cylinder height, the build plate lowers into the vat, I turn off the machine, turn it back on, the arm raises to the top, and I select the DIY test again to print another set of cylinders.
The pieces of this protocol that are missing for me, or are some concerns: when I change the z reset after printing out the cylinders, can I have resin in the vat when the build plate lowers and raises after power reset or do I have to drain the resin out every time I make a change to the z reset setting? No guide specifically states if leaving resin in the vat when the build plate lowers and raises would be damaging to the PDMS or FEP.
Secondly, after changing the z reset and the arm successfully lowers down into the vat and the power is turned off, when I turn it back on there is a rather loud low pitched grind/rapid clicking of once every 10th of a second that lasts for maybe 2.5 seconds total with no perceptible arm movement or strain to the vat, then the arm raises up to the top with the normal soft sounding high pitched hum of the arm moving. Is that a normal sound to hear after changing the z reset? Perhaps it’s just the sound of the arm reindexing to the new z reset setting before raising the arm up? I’ve done only a couple of prints and it works absolutely perfectly with no suction popping, tilt clanking, or any other sounds as others have reported, but when the z reset is changed, it throws a mini fit for me after turning the power back on to raise the plate. I should also add, changing the z reset is successful in changing the cylinder height, so the clicking does not keep the z reset from functioning mechanically.
Lastly, what is the normal visual wear and tear on a PDMS vat? How will I visually know it will need to be replaced outside of catastrophic chunks coming off the vat? Is a single 5 inch horizontal line/crack of bubbles normal wear and tear for little more than 10 small prints? Should I expect to see more and more lines and cracks as I print more? Do the layers of silicone just gradually get used up without any visual change? If not, the above information may have something to do with my situation. The lowest my DIY cylinders have ever been when leveling is 10.5mm for little more than 3 (out of the 10 total) very small prints.
Thank you any help or clarification you can send my way.