When will Peopoly castable be out, this is getting to be ridiculous. ITS OVER A YEAR since it was to be released!!!
Why won’t Peopoly answer???
We have one that can easily to burn out but not that easy to print. That is why we have not to release ones yet. We also learned that many jewelers have their specific way of doing burn out and not sure what is the best way to create burnout guideline that would work for as many users as it could. As you are aware, the burnout part is more than just the resin itself, the powder used, steam, what temperature and duration all have effects on the results. What is your suggestion on this? @olddogTim
The quickest burnout is the most economical and the production is better ( more pieces cast in a certain time) use a common investment ( powder ) that is easy to get and made for plastic, like Plasticast.
that is what would make sense but not observed in the field. The other is printing aspect of it. More wax, easier burn out (low temp) but hard to print. We have not forgotten about you and will stick to the plaan
I want to chime in here and give my 2 cents. First of all, I have been very successful printing with Photocentric 3D castable resin. I have heard some maybe have issues with it, and I dont know the chemical make up of it, but I believe it to be a top quality product ESPECIALLY for the price. I haven’t actually used any other castable resins simply because of price point, but I believe that post curing methodology is the utmost importance when using castable resins. Every jeweler is going to have a different process for post curing, burnout, etc. BUT I believe if you keep the resin price within check… the jeweler, hobbyist, etc. will go along with what YOU set as the best burnout/post curing process.
With that said, I would like to reference an article written by James Binnion from MJSA website that I have shared in these forums before… https://mjsa.org/publicationsmedia/mjsa_journal/a_sure_cure
I believe if you create a resin that built around the post cure/burnout process discussed in that article, then you will have a winner. I believe Formlabs even references the article on their website. Before doing the post cure method discussed in that article (low heat, vaccum) my wax cast prints did not look very good and I had to do a lot of metal work post-casting. Now, the tree’s come out looking fantastic with awesome detail and very little post-cast processing. I also follow the burnout recommended in the article.
Hope this helps.
how is the burn out. is it clean?
The burnout is very clean!
we made one that prints well on LCD and burns out clear (and dlp) but not quite yet for laser. stay tuned
I have been tuned in for over a year.
How do you feel this resin compares to FTD or Waxcast? I would like to make an order for some castable resin for jewellery, but I am unsure what to go with. I would like to hear more about the best options.
Which variety of the photocentric 3d would you recommend? At what resolution are you printing at, and how do you feel the outcome is?
Thank you so much!
I was using this resin for awhile and it is pretty good, but I just couldn’t get the resolution that I wanted. I shifted to Waxcast and having great success with the proper burnout schedule and curing procedure.
Thanks for your reply!
I ended up ordering both the photocentric and waxcast. Hopefully I get use from both of them.
Do you use the FEP Vat?