Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


Notice! The instructions I linked above are not for the UV Laser curable resin! The correct instructions are here:


it is not easy to tell. inconsistent curing is one, need to use extra laser power. you should start a separate thread than sticking under castable.


I wish you all a very happy new year 2019!!!

I am trying Photocentric Pink castable resin on Peopoly moai.
Having some problems with resin exposure settings, first I tried it at Laser power 55 then decreased it ill 50 as the holes in the test ring were all closed initially then they starts opening as i decreased the laser power till 50. Now i am still not satisfied with the print quality, i have tried different combination of print speed and laser power but no success to get all holes of the test ring open, tested the calibration which is also ok.
Any help from you guys will be highly appreciated.
Attaching some photos of the prints,


decrease the laser power to 48, and set the layers to 60um


thank you… let me try it out.
set layers to 60um… you mean the “print quality” setting in cura?


I suggest you download and install Asura software made by Peopoly. There are many profiles in the software from start - 60um is one of them. Asura slices the object by using Cura.

If you have not upgraded the software on your printer to 1.18 I also suggest you do that.

Happy printing and good luck!


I tried at Laser Power 48 and layers to 60um…it fails! only foundation printed on platform and nothing. already upgraded printer software to 1.18 latest.


the failed print was the ring??
if so, try to increase to 49


yes the failed print was the ring (the test ring)…below 50 laser power doesn’t work for this particular resin.


would a burn out schedule like this work for those of you who do own casting?



From what we learned, there are two distinct groups of castable users:

  1. jewelers who want lower temp burnout and willing to wait long. I see some burn out schedule for wax/castable, and it is pretty insane. 17 hours? wow

  2. dentists, who normally have equipment that can hit higher temperature and are in a hurry to finish. Some want it to burn out in 1hr; many are happy with 2 hours.

Since these two groups have different goals and equipment, they would need different resins. Is that an accurate statement?


I don’t personally think a lot of dentist are doing burnouts. I have talked to my own dentist about this And generally what they are looking to do is make molds. I may be wrong but I don’t think there are a lot of dentists that are doing burnouts in their own office.

The burn out I generally follow is around 15 hours but I get really good results with it.

I think I mentioned this to you guys before but people will adapt to a burn out schedule if it’s a good resin.
The burn out schedule you posted is fine as long as the resin keeps its detail and has a good burn out.


Team Jewelry;

Have been doing print+cast experiments with the Peopoly Standard Blue Resin and the results look good so far using the standard burnout profile for R&R Plasticast. The profile adjustments for printing at 25 micron are:

  • laser power 55
  • PM motor = 10
  • z moto = 2
  • z follow = 0

a more complete series of tests on large castings/surfaces and high-detail/filigree will be run next month.

this could really simplify Moai use.

stay tuned.

reichcustom jewelers


yes, mostly the labs are doing casting for the dentists. From what I learned, they want it fast so the entire burnout should not take more than 2 hours. Some castables can be burned clean in an hour. It is important for them because there are many other processes than follow the burnout for them to make the crown.

If that is the case, I believe it is true since multiple labs from different countries told me the same thing. Then why is some of the jewelers castable that need 10+ hours of burn out. If you can get good results with much less time (energy and cost) and from what I found, the dental plastsers seem to cost less too. So that is what puzzled our team.

@rogerramjet thanks for the feedback. is it one of these cycles? (6/8/12)

I have a formulation that burns out good at 750C for 30 mins and then 930C for 40mins according to the dental lab I work with. Is that a process that would work for you?


I don’t assume to be proficient in casting, burnout, etc. But what I have done is a lot of reading from many sources. What I have learned is that there are a lot more details involved in a proper burnout. Most of these details involve slowly heating investment to remove carbons, ash, and “prepping” the actual investment itself for the stress of the hot metal.

What I do know is actual results. Certain times temperatures etc. produce better end results that can be reproduced. I for one would be totally happy with a shorter burn out that produced good surfaces, but remember a lot of it depends on the investment as well. I believe the longer burn out times have more to do with the investment than anything else.

Is there a way I could do some testing with your new formula in my environment? I am a stickler when it comes to detail remaining on the jewelry so I would like to test it with the different investments that I use.


the challenging is printing, not the burn out for us at the stage. once it is printable, we would start putting special offer on peopoly.net. But we gotta get a good balance between printing and burnout first


I know there is a lot of opinion when it comes to using Maker juice wax cast, But I wanted to post my results using the low heat/vacuum curing method.

Prints were done mostly stock settings (1.18) except for PM motor which is set to 10. In Cura stock settings at 60 detail.

First picture I want to show is the difference in the resin between just UV cure and low heat/vacuum. UV cure is on the right with vacuum/low heat on the left.

As you can see the vacuum/low heat method makes the surface a little more harder and less prone to having the resin stuck to the surface of the investment during cure.

Using Plasticast 37-100 ml mix, and following the burnout procedure listed in this article,-https://www.ganoksin.com/article/preparing-3d-acrylic-photopolymer-patterns/
these were the results before pickle/cleaning:

As you can see the results are pretty amazing as long as you follow the curing method and burnout listed in the article I referenced above.


@peopoly check out the bluecast x5 for sla. Its expensive but requires only 3.5 hrs to 4 hrs of burnout. Also it helps to heat the resin at 40 deg Celsius before printing. Like some people have said before, sanding the buildplate also helps and i also use a uv glue on the buildplate like this one: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00OZKNVUM/ref=psdc_1389424031_t2_B07CKD7DNW


Yeah I haven’t used the blucast because it is more than twice the price after shipping. I wish the burnout could be quicker, but I don’t mind. Hopefully Peopoly will come out with something that has that quicker burn time, and not so expensive.


This schedule looks great. same as we use to cast bluecast.