Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


#142

yes referring to fun to do castable. the liquid separates. I don’t know the formulation but you will see a red layer on the bottom and a clear yellow tinted layer on the top. and it smells very bad.


#143

both FTD and Waxcast separate. even worse Waxcast come loaded with particulates that you have to screen out when you first open the bottle. if you a pro jeweler neither of these products can be used. got to use bluecast-ls with heating… IMHO… :wink:


#144

New to the forums… been following this thread. So basically put, nobody has found anything that works better or the same as bluecast? I guess if you are a professional jeweler its maybe not as hard to swallow the $180 price tag :astonished: Nice to find something a little cheaper…

I do have a question though… for those that have used waxcast, what was your curing method?


#145

UV light. It changes color when cured…


#146

@peopoly any updates on the castable resin you said you were working on?


#147

What is the fourth (far right)? Also, the far right one looks larger. Is that just the angle of the photo?


#148

I just did a run of rings and had pretty good success with Photocentric castable sla resin. The detail was pretty darn good considering I was doing tests/practice using pewter which has a realatively low viscosity.

The second picture is pretty much right out of the oven. Third picture is just on the buffing wheel for a few seconds. No deeper cleaning or grinding just the buffing wheel.



#149

Bluecast is $180 per liter? Didn’t sound too expensive.


#150

what is your pm motor and z moto settings? do you have z follow at 10? 40? or 0(turned off)


#151

Funny thing is… I had the best prints with all stock settings. (1.16). Z follow was at 10… Printed at .050

Cleaned with water and dish soap, but I also cured with the low heat vacuum method after 1/2 hour in UV. https://www.ganoksin.com/article/preparing-3d-acrylic-photopolymer-patterns/


#152

Looks really good and did you do the vaccum post curing as per the article by james binion?
Is the photocentric comparable to the bluecast x5?


#153

I have not used the bluecast as it is fairly expensive. Yes, I did the vacuum method per the article. Hour and a half at full vacuum with Low heat.

Here is the finished product…minus a few stones :smirk:

Here is a photo comparison of two rings… The one on the left was cured with just UV. The one on the right was UV and then vacuum low heat… there is a significant difference in the hardness and surface texture.


#154

what settings did you use?


#155

Just stock settings for firmware 1.16. Laser was set at 58


#156

What was the temperature? did you use any heater ?
What do you think about the finishing (can it be sold)?


#157

Are you referring to the printing or curing?

Finishing wasn’t bad at all. But anyone who has done jewelry can tell you- finishing is an art unto itself… It can be tedious, and requires a certain amount of skill.

Anything can be sold😁


#158

Thank you for sharing @GIDEONkjv
I’ve also started to test the PhotoCentric Castable resin. My first project didn’t push the limits nearly as much as what you’ve shown… so I’m inspired to go further. I really appreciate the post-processing paper you shared.

Here’s how my first project turned out…


#159

Very nice… what metal did you cast with?


#160

That was sterling silver. That’s all I know how to do at the moment. Brass or pewter would be nice to be able to do sometime.

I see photocentric has recently (this month) updated their casting guide. I thought they used to recommend spraying with a mold release agent. Now I see they recommend placing in an oven at 120C for 4 hours. (Way more aggressive than the Binnion paper!) That might improves things (unless it cracks!) but vacuum+low heat sounds like it will improve things even more.

Here is a link to their casting guide: (EDIT: This link is not for the UV Laser curing resin, it is for the LCD resin. See my comment below for their UV Laser data sheet)


#161

Mark, what are the symptoms of an old UV resin?? How does it reflect on surface finish and quality?? Do we have any threads on this topic?? I suspect this may be an issue with my prints.