yes referring to fun to do castable. the liquid separates. I don’t know the formulation but you will see a red layer on the bottom and a clear yellow tinted layer on the top. and it smells very bad.
both FTD and Waxcast separate. even worse Waxcast come loaded with particulates that you have to screen out when you first open the bottle. if you a pro jeweler neither of these products can be used. got to use bluecast-ls with heating… IMHO…
New to the forums… been following this thread. So basically put, nobody has found anything that works better or the same as bluecast? I guess if you are a professional jeweler its maybe not as hard to swallow the $180 price tag Nice to find something a little cheaper…
I do have a question though… for those that have used waxcast, what was your curing method?
UV light. It changes color when cured…
What is the fourth (far right)? Also, the far right one looks larger. Is that just the angle of the photo?
I just did a run of rings and had pretty good success with Photocentric castable sla resin. The detail was pretty darn good considering I was doing tests/practice using pewter which has a realatively low viscosity.
The second picture is pretty much right out of the oven. Third picture is just on the buffing wheel for a few seconds. No deeper cleaning or grinding just the buffing wheel.
Bluecast is $180 per liter? Didn’t sound too expensive.
what is your pm motor and z moto settings? do you have z follow at 10? 40? or 0(turned off)
Funny thing is… I had the best prints with all stock settings. (1.16). Z follow was at 10… Printed at .050
Cleaned with water and dish soap, but I also cured with the low heat vacuum method after 1/2 hour in UV. https://www.ganoksin.com/article/preparing-3d-acrylic-photopolymer-patterns/
Looks really good and did you do the vaccum post curing as per the article by james binion?
Is the photocentric comparable to the bluecast x5?
I have not used the bluecast as it is fairly expensive. Yes, I did the vacuum method per the article. Hour and a half at full vacuum with Low heat.
Here is the finished product…minus a few stones
Here is a photo comparison of two rings… The one on the left was cured with just UV. The one on the right was UV and then vacuum low heat… there is a significant difference in the hardness and surface texture.
what settings did you use?
Just stock settings for firmware 1.16. Laser was set at 58
What was the temperature? did you use any heater ?
What do you think about the finishing (can it be sold)?
Are you referring to the printing or curing?
Finishing wasn’t bad at all. But anyone who has done jewelry can tell you- finishing is an art unto itself… It can be tedious, and requires a certain amount of skill.
Anything can be sold😁
Thank you for sharing @GIDEONkjv
I’ve also started to test the PhotoCentric Castable resin. My first project didn’t push the limits nearly as much as what you’ve shown… so I’m inspired to go further. I really appreciate the post-processing paper you shared.
Here’s how my first project turned out…
Very nice… what metal did you cast with?
That was sterling silver. That’s all I know how to do at the moment. Brass or pewter would be nice to be able to do sometime.
I see photocentric has recently (this month) updated their casting guide. I thought they used to recommend spraying with a mold release agent. Now I see they recommend placing in an oven at 120C for 4 hours. (Way more aggressive than the Binnion paper!) That might improves things (unless it cracks!) but vacuum+low heat sounds like it will improve things even more.
Here is a link to their casting guide: (EDIT: This link is not for the UV Laser curing resin, it is for the LCD resin. See my comment below for their UV Laser data sheet)
Mark, what are the symptoms of an old UV resin?? How does it reflect on surface finish and quality?? Do we have any threads on this topic?? I suspect this may be an issue with my prints.