I really need to start casting my own stuff soon. Lol.
can the problem with burnout ash when using waxcast be solved by forced downward ventilation on the kiln? I have a kerr kiln no ramp controls no forced vent system. I believe I’m stuck with printing the part with plastic resin then making a mold,
does anyone have parameters which work well in 25 for bluecast?
yes, please see prior posts in this topic area…
See photo… BlueCast continues to get better using Miguel’s settings. Gotta heat that resin! This is 25 micron blue vs waxcaast…
Introducing the Peopoly Moai Professional Jewelers Edition.
Just kidding (late April fools)…
Anyway the heater in the picture below is key to using BlueCast-LS.
What about the formlabs castable resin? has anyone used it on moai? If yes, how was the print and cast and what where the settings?
I’ve ordered formlabs castable resin. It’s currently on sale at Reichelt (Germany). It’s cheap atm because Formlabs is phasing out the resin in bottles for the form1, but i think the stuff in that silly cartridges for the form2 is basically the same.
I will test it in the coming weeks and report back.
will be looking forward for it
Like the setup! How have your castings been with bluecast LS?
We do - digital kiln for burnout but no electromelt, just torch melting for now
yes, LS with the low shrink makes a difference. but thicker so you have to heat it up to 100F
See photo of the oven used for pre-heating BlueCast-LS. In addition to the heated build chamber in the photo above this makes prints MUCH better. This is a requirement for printing with this resin. A simple $36 Black and Decker Toaster Over with a separate thermometer to exactly control temperature. Cheep and easy.
see photo below. Bluecast-LS printed at 80F and 100F. 100F is on the right side of the picture… Clearly 100F is better surface finish but starts to incur some dimensional drift. Am going to retest at 90F.
keep on truck’in
Another tip. After roughing up the surface of your build plate with sand paper, and super cleaning the build plate with 95% alcohol, make sure you work some resin into the surface with a tooth brush before you start a print. These actions in combination really help build plate adhesion.
what about the peo resin, how does it burnout?
I will be casting with resin models BUT my sprues will be wax. How should I do it? I was thinking button down to melt out the wax( to about 400 degrees ) then button up for the Resin. Does this sound good or does anybody else have any other ideas?
It is not out yet unfortunately .
Amy news about the castable peopoly resin? I know it’s not out, but have some predictions?
I think quite a few people are waiting for it ! Hopefully soon, it was supposedly to be out last year, they were testing it in November.