Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


#101

Also @Bobby_Allen

I really need to start casting my own stuff soon. Lol.


#102

can the problem with burnout ash when using waxcast be solved by forced downward ventilation on the kiln? I have a kerr kiln no ramp controls no forced vent system. I believe I’m stuck with printing the part with plastic resin then making a mold,


#103

does anyone have parameters which work well in 25 for bluecast?


#104

yes, please see prior posts in this topic area… :wink:


#105

Well Guys;

See photo… BlueCast continues to get better using Miguel’s settings. Gotta heat that resin! :wink: This is 25 micron blue vs waxcaast…


#106

Introducing the Peopoly Moai Professional Jewelers Edition.

  • Includes precise build chamber heater.
  • Fully Pre-built.
  • Tuned to hold overall dimensional tolerance to 250 microns.
  • Set for optimum surface finish at 25 microns Z height resolution.
  • Includes hyper detailed instructions, investment powder, and resin for producing near perfect castings.
  • $2995

Just kidding (late April fools)…

Anyway the heater in the picture below is key to using BlueCast-LS.
Party on…

Roger


#107

What about the formlabs castable resin? has anyone used it on moai? If yes, how was the print and cast and what where the settings?


#108

I’ve ordered formlabs castable resin. It’s currently on sale at Reichelt (Germany). It’s cheap atm because Formlabs is phasing out the resin in bottles for the form1, but i think the stuff in that silly cartridges for the form2 is basically the same.

I will test it in the coming weeks and report back.


#109

will be looking forward for it


#110

Like the setup! How have your castings been with bluecast LS?


#111

We do - digital kiln for burnout but no electromelt, just torch melting for now


#112

yes, LS with the low shrink makes a difference. but thicker so you have to heat it up to 100F


#113

Hi Guys;

See photo of the oven used for pre-heating BlueCast-LS. In addition to the heated build chamber in the photo above this makes prints MUCH better. This is a requirement for printing with this resin. A simple $36 Black and Decker Toaster Over with a separate thermometer to exactly control temperature. Cheep and easy.


#114

Guys

see photo below. Bluecast-LS printed at 80F and 100F. 100F is on the right side of the picture… Clearly 100F is better surface finish but starts to incur some dimensional drift. Am going to retest at 90F.

keep on truck’in


#115

Guys

Another tip. After roughing up the surface of your build plate with sand paper, and super cleaning the build plate with 95% alcohol, make sure you work some resin into the surface with a tooth brush before you start a print. These actions in combination really help build plate adhesion.

roger


#116

what about the peo resin, how does it burnout?


Anybody getting clean wax resin burnout? How?
#117

I will be casting with resin models BUT my sprues will be wax. How should I do it? I was thinking button down to melt out the wax( to about 400 degrees ) then button up for the Resin. Does this sound good or does anybody else have any other ideas?


#118

It is not out yet unfortunately .


#119

Amy news about the castable peopoly resin? I know it’s not out, but have some predictions?


#120

I think quite a few people are waiting for it ! Hopefully soon, it was supposedly to be out last year, they were testing it in November.