Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


#81

oh, well i can tell for sure b9 core doesn’t printe like that… so it makes me wonder.


#82

Yes. Moai = Waxcast and B9=B9 yellow


#83

You can’t compare resins on 2 different machines unless you print both resins on both machines.


#84

Agree. Someone on this thread was getting confused and so I had to simplify it.

I tried with B9 Yellow on the Moai and failed on numerous attempts. So much so I burned through my pdms😠 I’ll try again at some point. DLP resins are a bit trickier to get to work on laser systems.


#85

I thought I read somewhere that llaser should be set around 40 for DLP


#86

Yeah around 40 to 50 parameter. Plus a slow travel speed too.


#87

OK a question for you all. I will be working with wax sprues and castable resin how should I orientate the flask button down to let out wax or button up for venting the resin ?


#88

See below a comparitive test of Miguel’s settings for BlueCast versus WaxCast.

Left to Right

  • BlueCast-LS 25 micron
  • WaxCast 50 micron
  • WaxCast 25 micron

What do you guys think??? Which would you use and why???

Cheers
RogerRamJet
ReichCustom


#89

Even better. Here is a super closeup of

  • BlueCase-LS (using Miguel’s settings) at 25 microns
  • WaxCast at 50 microns

:wink:


#90

Indeed there is a clear resolution issue with the Bluecast. I was hoping for better than Waxcast but it seems that is not the case. Those build lines are very prominent, even in 25 microns. I’ve not yet casted with Bluecast as I give it to an external company to do. That’ll happen soon. So far the Waxcast has proved a struggle after casting. Prints like a dream though!

Hoping Peopoly comes up with the “magic bullet” LOL.


#91

What are Miguel’s settings?


#92

I think that’s me?

I had put up some settings for best results, but I’ve found that basic People settings work well, too…stick with them. The biggest disappoint I’ve had with blue cast is the burn out…It works well 70% of the time, and that can be frustrating although happy it works more than fails…all these “Jewelry” resins leave too much ash and post processing sucks…but alas, it is what it is…I went back to simple wax and that seems to be forever king…perfect burn outs…

Blue cast is by far the best burn out resin I’ve used…waxcast was awful with way too much ash left after burn out…plus I could only use half my build plate (Left side) due to poor adhesion…

All said and done, I’m still relying primarily on bluecast when designing new concepts…

Best of luck to all…


#93

Hey…I didn’t see this message, I’m sorry…

I have had mixed results with blue cast…not sure what to make of it except I think it’s better than wax cast by a long shot…the build lines suck and the only thing I can figure as it seems to work for me is go heavy on the support material…way heavy…

I’ve tried all kinds of print settings and it was the support material that made the difference…

best of luck…


#94

No worries.

Well I tried to increase z reset by a couple of points and it seemed to decrease the lines a bit. The model looked a little “thicker” than usual. I’ve only done it with one model so far. Maybe a coincidence…:thinking:


#95

regarding build plate adhesion, take rough sand paper to the surface and rub in random directions, use
something like 100 grit. dont change the corner to corner flatness of the plate just the surface finish. Be gentle and even.

also make sure the build plate is SUPER clean right before print. Clean with alcohol and a scrub brush. Dry build plate completely after cleaning./

Also, run your resin through a 100 micron screen before using a new bottle AND after every build.

these factors in combo help…


#96

regarding waxcast, definitely MUST screen entire bottle when new


#97

also must use RR plasticast with waxcast.


#98

also note longer and hotter temperatures recommended by this forum for Waxcast burnout…


#99

so who here does the burn out on their own?


#100

my company… ReichCustom