Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


#41

Hashra

A terrible day indeed. You have saved all of us from wasted time/energy trying B9 Yellow…

Hat’s off to you sir… a formidable contribution to this team and effort.

Bravo.

roger


#42

Thanks Roger!

I know it is a great resin as I’ve used it in my previous DLP printer. My casting guys did a great job on it and there was very little clean up involved.

I gave up on the resin as I was exhausted! LOL. But I believe I can still pursue this at some point. I’m debating getting another vat just for it (and good to have a backup vat).

The battle is over… But the war is not. Lol.


#43

any one of you have experience with Formlabs wax resins? especially with burn out process.


#44

no…but I hear it’s good stuff…


#45

this is the burnout process:

close to what you guys are using?


#46

This is similar to the burnout process I have used in the past, except I kept my burnout time to 8 hours max…

now with bluecast, burnout is 30 min…very clean with no ash or residue…


#47

Hey Guys;

Is there another US source for blucase other than Ultimate3Dprintstore.com??? They seem to be out of stock???

thanks

roger


#48

any update on cast resin?


#49

we have sent them out for testing. It looks like 5 hours at 700C can do a clean burn on our end but not for one of the testers. so we can still checking to find out why


#50

ultimately, being able to follow the desired profile for the investment compound without modification for the resin is optimal.

:wink:

RogerRamJet
ReichCustom…


#51

Each caster seems to have unique process of their own so it would probably best for us to clarify the exact steps we got it burn clean at 700C.


#52

The time duration at 700C is not critical to the overall investment process.


#53

Mark

Would you please contact me privately via email.

thanks

roger


#54

Miguel, what are the print speed settings you used for the BlueCast, if I may ask? I just ordered some today.

Did you use the same settings for all three layer thicknesses?

Thank you for your valuable input!


#55

I slowed everything down. But after the new firmware update, I kept everything the same and it all worked out well.

At the end I wanted perfect prints and I started making molds with peopoly’s grey resin instead of relying on the bluecast. Bluecast a great resin, but I felt I could do better with wax and I get perfect burnouts with wax.

The blue cast is a close second, plus I save a ton of time with bluecast. But again, I want perfection.

Best of luck.


#56

Okay, thanks for your help, Miiguel.

I’m printing complex industrial parts with fine detail (down to .5mm wide ribs, so I need to print the wax pattern. The BlueCast seems like the best alternative so far.

Thanks again for your time and input.


#57

My advise is stick with the peopoly resin unless you’re looking to do burnouts for casting.

The best detail is the peopoly resin with little competition.

Also, angle your parts 45 degrees and you’ll hardly ever see lines.

Blue cast is magical, but primarily for jewelers.


#58

Yes, we’ll be using it for burnouts and my customer needs it to be as close to the burnout qualities of machineable wax as possible.

I purchased the low shrink version of the BlueCast since my parts vary from 2" to 4" in diameter.

Thanks again for your input!


#59

Miguel,

I’ve just purchased some Bluecast. What are your exposure times please?


#60

I found this forum while searching online for castable resins. I have a DLP printer and has been testing different resins for a couple of months.

  • Tiger3D Burgundy and Smart-Res - This is most castable resin I found so far. The burnout schedule is very similar to wax and casts like wax - perfect every time even with my basic casting setup.
    However, printing with Burgundy is quite challenging. Often the prints will fall apart while printing. I played with the print settings for a couple of days but never found the right values that will give me good constant results. I’ve contacted the Romanoff’s sales rep. for suggestions on the printing settings, however, he refused to provide me with any information unless I purchase their $10,000 DLP printer…
    Smart-Res is easier to print but it is very soft and requires massive supports.

  • B9 Emerald and Yellow - These are the most popular resins among the jeweler community for a good reason. They are relatively inexpensive, print and cast well with relatively low fail rate. They are not as easy to cast as the Tiger resins but most people find a way to cast them clean.
    Emerald is easier to work with. Yellow is very sticky and difficult to clean while providing only a minor sharpness advantage.

Everything else I’ve tested was garbage. I haven’t tried Blue-Cast or FunToDo so I can’t comment on those.