Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers


#182

great work roger. keep us posted.


#183

the softer tough v2 should burn out even easier @rogerramjet @c3497943

if you can confirm on the exact schedule from Plasticast, I will test it out here.


#184

yes…I do similar burn out
with blue cast

I used to do 1 hour burnouts…but with new x5, I do long burnouts…great results…and I centrifuge, which is not the best method…still…near perfect casts…

oh…and Argentium Silver will improve everything…if youre casting Silver…just don’t quench too quickly…


#185

What kind of heater system you have installed inside your moai to print properly with bluecast x5?


#186

Hi!!

No heater system. I just warm up the blue cast in hot water.

Meaning, I empty my vat of blue cast into its original bottle…then, I put that bottle in super hot water for about 10 min.

I was also heating the build plate with a heat gun, but I suppose a hair dryer will suffice, as well. I don’t always heat build plate. But always heat blue cast as described.

That’s it. No heater necessary.

If u have a thermometer, check that you don’t heat the water pass 50 or 60 degrees C.

And always print at or above 60 microns.


#187

Thanks for the info. I will try this method


#188

Hello everyone!

I am having a hard time sorting through all the forums to find the best resin for both printing, and casting for jewellery.

I don’t care too much about what burnout method I need to use; I’ll use whatever is recommended.

So far it seems as though Bluecast, FTD, Waxcast and Photocentric are the main contenders.

I purchased the Moai with the intention of printing for the sole purpose of jewellery. Now that I have really dialed in the settings for regular peopoly resin, I would like to move on to castable!

Help!


#189

Me personally I have used the Photocentric and the Waxcast and been successful with both. I get better resolution when using Waxcast, but it needs to be filtered. It also needs a good burn time and I very much suggest using the low temp vacuum method for curing. I know some people in here prefer the blu cast, but its cost prohibitive for me, but it also has a lower burnout and prints good (as long as the resin is warmed up before printing.

Whatever you decide upon, I think there is a good general consensus to use Plasticast for your investment.


#190

Thank you!
Good enough for me. I ordered a bottle each of photocentric and waxcast.

Blu cast is twice the price, if it doesn’t work better then I don’t need it. Here’s hoping that Peopoly’s resin is better than them all (when it’s released)


#191

@darshan I considered the peopoly heater but the range was too cold for bluecast x5. i installed the incukit mini into the top of the side panel. the room is about 65f. after putting some blankets all around the moai to keep in the heat the moai can get to 99f which is good for bluecast. i think they recommend 95 but 99 is good too. very good prints. well better than before - also really slowed down the PM motor and z follows to keep trying to reduce layer lines - printing at 45um now but need to go a tiny bit lower - still getting some layers/rough surface.

try the incukit mini your x5 will thank you


#192

Could you tell me what print settings you are using for the Waxcast?
Mine has arrived and I can’t get a single print to work out.

The Sample ring keeps breaking off halfway- all the supports stuck to the build plate and the rest stuck to the vat.


#193

I use Stocks settings with laser at 58, except I put my pm motor at 8. And I put pm reset at 60. I also make sure the vat is very level (I use easy level build plate).

An Important thing that you’ve got to do with wax cast is filter it before your first use and make sure you print slow. Try printing at 60um before moving to anything more detailed. I have never printed smaller than 40um with castable resins.


#194

Thank you!

I have screened and leveled everything. I had 2 successful prints so far, but it was luck. I the supports keep breaking and the resin seems very soft.

Did you rough up your build plate? I am also using the easy-to-level plate.

When you say stock settings, are you referring to the 1.18 settings?

Also, do you use the heater with this resin?

Sorry for all the questions! Thanks so much for your help!


#195

Don’t worry about asking too many questions that’s what the forum is for! :wink:

Yes I use 1.18 settings

My Build plate is already somewhat roughed up because of all the scraping I’ve done but I don’t know if that makes a difference or not. Just make sure the bottom base is wide and thick enough.

I have also seem to have more success when I don’t use the heater simply because it’s a soft material. When I do have a good print I rinse it off with alcohol and then it’s under UV for about half an hour.


#196

Well, Starting to loose my mind a bit here.
The prints have been turning out like this each time. they seem to disconnect from the build plate half way through.

I have roughed up the plate (This was happening before) Messed with laser power up and down, leveled and used stock settings as well as some I found that Bobby Allen posted in the Show Us Your Bits forum.

Getting a bit discouraged here! Any suggestions?
I should note that I have been having flawless prints in the Peopoly Neon Green resin before this stuff.

Please help!


#201

I’ve been testing the photocentic SLA castable and have found that 52 laser power is what is needed. I haven’t been able to get any success at 20um printing, but all my 60um prints are working. Currently testing a 40um.

At 20um, there is just a surface on the build plate and a surface in the VAT. Not sure why that happens.

Update!

Success at 40um and it looks pretty great!

Here is an update for waxcast.
Laser power 57, all settings 1.18 default except z moto is 30 and pm moto is 65
Supports made in asura, and sliced in cura
left is 40um and right is 20um

It’s looking pretty great!!!


#202

I cant say this enough, but cure for 15-20 min under UV and then do the Vacuum/low-heat for 2 hours to finish curing… It is a night and day difference (especially with wax-cast). The other thing that helps is the introduction of small air flow while in burnout. A small aquarium pump through stainless steel brake line does the trick.


#203

I’ve never vacuumed something to finish curing… How is that done? Also, could you show me a photo of what you mean by the the airflow for burnout? Where is it? In the kiln? I’m confused!!!

head explodes


#204

yes… its more money, but money well spent, besides… you need it for pouring your investment anyways.

You need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRIYA80/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01HRIYA80

And these:

For the vacuum curing, I put the prints in the middle of the pot raised on a metal wire strainer (just anything so It is not making direct contact with the bottom) You vacuum and then raise the heat on the oven to 190-200 (which is low or warm on most burners) Get as much vacuum as possible and then close the valves so no air escapes. Leave it on the oven for 2 hours. Just keep an eye on everything and make sure no hoses are close to the burners.

As for the airflow in burnout

I attach an aquarium pump to the end of a long piece of stainless steel… I then run the stainless steel through a container of water (for safety)… And then into the bottom corner of the door. As you can see from the last photo, I also have a vent in the top of my oven.

Hope this all helps.


#205

Thank you so much for such a detailed explanation and picture shoot! I’ll take a look at this. I will have to wait a bit before I can get this extra equipment. I do have a vacuum casting unit as well as a standard centrifuge. I’ll do a few test casts using the burn out schedule recommended, unless you know of a better one?

I’ll give updates after the first casting attempts!

thanks again for all your help!