Warping along straight and flat planes


The biggest hang up I’m having with the Moai right now is straight planes regardless of how I orientate the model. Its as if SLA printing is only suited for organic shapes and non linear objects. I have removed most the wrapping on this current model through liberal use of supports but this one plane as highlighted by the red line warps everytime I print this model. Perhaps the geometry of this model is just not suited for the Moai and SLA printing. I was under the impression that my models would come out better than on my FDM but so far the opposite has been true. Yes while the finish is better dimensionally my models have been printing with all sorts of odd warping and wobble.

If someone has printed large boxes or rectangular objects with a high level of dimensional accuracy please show me how you did it because so far the Moai just cant handle anything I throw at it except small organic shapes like the ring and Moai head.


have you run the x/y size calibration yet?

Another issue with your print setup is that you print to cover the whole area, making it experience different peel force as it moves up. It should be up to it more up. I recommend you download Preform or Retinacreate and use their automatic orientation to see how it is set up. At the edge, there is distortion due to glavoes. and that is something we are working to correct via software adjustment. In addition, there is resin shrink factor. It is only recommended to print large after you run through the calibrations.


Did you ever resolve this problem? I’m seeing the same issue on a large-ish part that I’m trying to print?


Did you resolve this issue? I would like to know what you did! :slightly_smiling_face:


There are series of steps. Just read the wiki and this forum. I made parts of it in the last 3 months
Here is assembled in one list what worked with me:

  1. You do general geometry test with the test g code for cross and 2 circles, using the supplied with the printer sheet of paper with 2 circles and squares. If it is roughly in you go to step 3. This is made with empty clean vat.
  2. IF this initial check is way to off you have to do advanced calibration with some fine tuning the galvos and galvo driver board , there is guide for that.
  3. You do the leveling with the 4 screws under the resin tank. Best way printing the 4 corner cylinders until they are 4 close to 10.7 mm printed. Here you print with resin poured in the vat.
  4. Then you do this with asura http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:asura
    Doing all of the above patiently and carefully i get inside 0.02 with short prints close to the table surface.
    From here for larger and taller prints you have to dial in the rotation , hollowing and support game.
    And this is experience and takes time and trial and error :wink:


Naw, he quit, couldn’t get the results he wanted. It doesn’t help he chose the most complex thing to print in SLA, a box with lots of nurnies.