Too much adhesion on vat


#1

Hello.

When finish a layer and the vat makes the movement down to unstick to make the next layer, it´s semms that make a lot of forcé to unstick… That is normal? I can hear the sound of the unstick at 20 meters of distance, and see how move a little the build plate like forcing it.

I am using the fet vat like only 20 hours approximately of operating. May be the PDMS vat have less adherence? Do you think is normal this little unstick forcing?


#2

Sorry to hear your issue, here is a survey we use to help us get as much info as we can from user so that we could provide best solution. Even if you might have provide some info already, please answer the question for the completeness.

support question:

Room temperature (best to be >25C):

What type of resin:

Build plate type: (Standard 1-piece / easy to level)

Vat: (Silicon vat / FEP vat)

What type Vat: (Peopoly Original vat, Recoated Peopoly vat, custom vat made by user)

Leveling measurement:

A, B, C, D (example 10.9mm)

Firmware version:

System Setting is default per Peopoly recommendation? (Yes/No)

Laser Power:

Z-reset position:

PM Motor Speed:

Z Follow Speed:

Software used to slice?

If using Asura,what version and profiles

If using Cura, what version and Profiles:

Infill %:


#3

there is always some peel force. It is best to answer @peopolysupport survey so we can help make sure resin/exposure is correct and temperature is high enough


#4

In the end i make smaller print, if i do saturated prints with a lot of pices the machine make a lot of stivky strong. Is normal i think… also i install the heater.


#5

it is difficult to determine if it is too much.

make sure you stick to the latest Firmware settings
http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:firmware&s[]=firmware
and keep temperature over 25C and as long as prints are working, you should be fine


#6

The adhesion effect is mostly due to to air pressure causing a suction-cup effect on the resin tank. If the PM motor is struggling to release the model from the resin tank, then you probably have no holes in the model, or the holes that you do have are simply not large enough to allow enough air in to equalize pressure.

When I’m preparing large models that take up most of the area of the build plate, I usually try to add three or four holes in the model. I’ve found 3mm in diameter works well for larger prints. I try to place at least two holes near the base of the model near the build plate, and I add the others in strategic locations where I know I can patch the hole easily and where I think suction might be an issue (such as next to thin features). It’s also a good idea to place holes in locations where excess resin can drain easily. Drain holes also help tremendously when washing and curing parts.

Sometimes it’s difficult to add holes to a model because it is full of fine details that you don’t want to ruin. In those cases, you can often raise the model off of the build plate using supports and add holes underneath.