Tearing Films (MOAI 200)

So the FEP Film is becoming a real problem for me. My first film that came with my printer leaked into the lower portion of the printer. Replaced it with one of the two included with the printer. I got a couple successfulish prints, then the film tore. Replaced it again, Tore first print. I don’t know how either. I clean all the surfaces thoroughly and didn’t stretch the film.

I’ve seen some things said here and there regarding an all glass bed with a surface coating? If this is possible, would this cause severe changes in the laser refraction and skew the accuracy/calibration of the laser?

Thoughts or advice would be awesome.

if there’s nothing wrong with your installation, it’s most likely the settings, can you upload them?

Hello Grant,

in short: the FEP tub (FEP on glass) of the Moai 200 is technically not mature, because the peel-off forces are much too high. Unfortunately, you can not do much against it.

Maybe the new FEP setup is better (I do not have it):Advanced Glass Plate with PDMS for Moai 200 Vat. I have not read any reviews yet.

Because of the refraction, I would have no concern with this because it is partially compensated by the calibration. If your printouts need to have precise dimensions, then you should consider the systemic error in the corner areas (see Moai 200 - Measurement and correction of accuracy).

To your leak problem:

Can you show pictures of the cracked / perforated FEP film and the location on the VAT on which resin has leaked?

Do you have a glass plate with holes?

I was looking into this too. But it seems like it is just the glass plate, that maybe is slightly thicker and also has the silicon like coating. So not sure if it would have any better advantage over what we have now.

I covered the leaking in another post. The edges of the film were not tight against the seal and caused it to leak. The screws were not evenly tightened upon disassembly to replace the film. It never leaked down into the lower chamber after that. I used 3M adhesive spray to secure my gasket in place, that seemed to help too to avoid shifting during complete assembly.

I have the metal plate with holes for my platform and solid glass vat baseplate.

You on any of the 3D Printing facebook groups?

How would the settings impact the film tearing? (Just curious) My prints, if oriented in the slicer correctly with ample supports, have no issues with my quality. I’ve successfully printed objects other than the included test files like the Ring or Moai. I’m currently working on a “slightly larger” print and the only reason it messed up was the film tore, resin got underneath the film, cured and the laser was blocked by the cured piece. I’ll still post the settings soon

The topmost FEP layer lies on a silicone layer (thickness?). The silicone makes the FEP film a little bit more “flexible”. If that brings something? It’s worth a try.

Yes, but I find this data collection platform more than confusing. Did you post more information about your problem there?

FEP flim is a delicate piece, high peel force( due to high PM motor speed) can easily cause failure and may tore the film
high laser power will damage the vat, shorten it’s life span

Regarding tearing, if your model’s foot print is super large per layer, that can cause a huge suction force as well, so take that into consideration when cutting up and/or orienting your model. And of course slowing the PM motor speed helps a great deal.

I gone through about 5 fep sheets :stuck_out_tongue: since getting my moai 200.
When you have a failed print, you must drain and empty out the vat so there are not floaters of cured resin. which will punch a hole in the fep on your next print.

What is the recommended settings that effect PM motor speed? Have you had overall successful prints with your machine?

I did figure that out the hard way with the first film. How many prints can you make per FEP film after learning more about what settings to do, etc?

yeh, took a good 2 months to dial it all in, but tbh the main reason was the clear NEX resin I was using, switching to a harder resin like NEX skin and the advanced plate gave good results.
I have my PM motor set to 10 and reset to 70. this increases the print time, but it gives better results.

How many prints depends on how throughout you clean up the vat after a failed print, most of the time the FEP is damaged from either floaters or, attempting to scrape off cured resin off the FEP.

|### Jason Westmas <jpwestmas@gmail.com>|12:00 PM (2 minutes ago)||

to Grant


It really depends on the model and the orientation of it (so it’s very case by case) but Peopoly has made general recommendations for FEP film and PDMS vats in their documentation for how to use them on their support page. https://peopoly.net/pages/support

Make sure you read all that and take note of the date it was written. Things have changed a lot.

If I were you I would not get too fancy with the model you are trying to print and stick to one type of resin that has a good reputation. Learn all that till you get the desired result then advance to the next level of complexity slowly.

What is the current software version for the 200 series? I have SLA200 1.0, but saw in one of the guide photos “V1.15” was seen on the screen. Was just curious. Can’t find any exact number anywhere

Update on my machine- New FEP film installed, Made sure the glass was crystal clear with not a single smudge. Changed my PM Motor speed to 8… Fresh resin Heard one layer stick to the film but it did release and didn’t make any tears.


Where do you purchase your FEP sheets?


from Peopoly directly.

Would the pm settings listed give better fep performance with the Moai 130 as well? I like the tough clear any recommended settings for that with fep and leveling plate? Any help is appreciated