Some Problems with the testcube and moai 200 calibration

#1

Hello,
I’m calibarting my MOAI 200 and havin some problems with the test cube. The surface at the X- and Y-planes look nearly perfect. The side length is not at 20mm at all, but I think that is my bad and I have to do the circle test again. By the way, is there a more precisious way to calibarte the X- and Y- galvo position? For me it’s pretty hard to see if the spot is matching the printed lines. I have made some slow motion videos during the circle test, and it looks good for me, actualy I have a length of 19.6mm to 19.73mm for the X-Axis and 20.11 to20.3mm for the Y-Axis.

The Z-axis is not really mesurable, because the uppder side, means the first printed side of the cube, looks horrible (see photo), has anyone an advice for me to fix this problem with the surface?

I have to say that my laserpower is a little high for the model resin (about 70), because with the intensities given in the guide I only printed plates an my FEP film. After I used the higher laser power the results came out good.
The leveling is at a pin length of 10.59 to 10.61 mm. And I am using the heater given by peopoly.


Greetings
J

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#2

Sorry for the bad pic, I think this shows the problem better

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#3

on the picture. it seems like the print isn’t finished yet, you said 70 came out good but what happens when you try to print at 58?i’m assuming you are using standard clear resin
to calibrate the X,Y size , try the Asura calibration guide:https://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:asura

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#4

You mean the upper side looks like the print has not been finished?
If you take a cloese look, you can see that the upper side on the pictures is the first layer of the print and you can see the dots where the supports were placed.
It is the high temp resin (clear) I also have the model resin, but only in white and wonted to to the first prints with a clear resin.
If I use the standard laser power, I only get a plate on the FEP film, like in this post: Need Ring rest print help , but not on my mounting plate.

Greetings
J

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#5

Hello,
I recalibrated my X- and Y-Axis with the 200-Yuan-test and changed the resin from clear Hi-temp to white model resin.
Now I have to set the laserpower even higher than before, actually I’m at a value of >75, nearly 80, and the cube doesn’t look fine.
Might you like to explain the value of the laserpower tom me? Is it just a percentage value, so it means I’m actually at 80% power, or is it just a free set value?
It seems that I had a little bad luck with the laser and it is slightly weak.

Greetings

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#6

Pictures of the print are necessary to understand the issue. A setting of 80 is way too high for most applications. It is not a percentage per se, the laser is open-loop and does not provide output information to the controller board. One question: did you peel the protective plastic sheets off both sides of the galvos protector? This is a common build error that will attenuate laser energy.

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#7

it’s strange that you have to set your laser so high, the tough resin is printed at 51 and model resin is 58-59, you can see the exposure here:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1t8bjlfk7irSJFy3kzOr-I6SN5acE8UIlOl2E4r3dG_8/edit#gid=0
can you change the laser to the recommend value and upload pictures of the print? so we can see what happens
@Paradoxical_Cat even with the protective plastic sheets it would only need to increase the laser value to about 1,2 or maybe 5, it can be the cause but for this case i think it’s a bit extreme

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#8

Hey guys,
thank you for the support.
It seems you are both right, I have printed the cube with an intensity of 70 and all types of support structure - the result is that my problem is not (only) based on the intensity, it seems like the support has a huge influnence on the adhesion. Also the spaces between the support are fully hardended if the intensity is that high.
If I use the pin structure my cube shows a lot of defects or there is no cube after the first layer after the support has been printed.
I have lowered the laserpower by 5 for the next test print.
@Paradoxical_Cat I have the MOAI 200 so there is no galvos protector anymore, but I think I qould like to have one, because its dangerous to remove the VAT for this model.
@peopolysupport I actually use the asusa 2.23 beta, should I better use the version 2.22?
See the pics below for the results so far :wink:

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#9

can you lower it to 58? see if they even printed out
from the picture i can see that the prints starts to fail when it prints at the middle of the build plate, this could be due to leveling, can you re-do the leveling and post the results?:https://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai200:leveling

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