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#162

I hate you guys when you show those build plates without even one broken support! How the hell do you do?! I always end up with a fair share of unprinted supports. Wondering if it’s the temperature very close to 20C.

Really nice model BTW!


#163

And this is the biggest model I printed so far. It basically takes the whole build plate

Printed at 80um @ 100mm/s

I’m surprised I was able to print it at all, I was expecting a catastrophic failure but it turned out okay(ish) at first try.

I don’t think the moai gives its best with HUGE geometrical shapes.


#164

Try increasing the thickness of the base for your supports.


#165

Printing some art pieces for the workplace…

Almost max z-hight and no problems. Moai 100um profile and supports auto generated in XYZ-Nobel software (high/large settings). Peopoly blue resin.


#166

These were not all printed on the Moai. But this design was my inspiration for buying the Moai, because I want to print the knobs shown here in the detail that they deserve to be printed in. So I will be updating this post very soon with my first print of these knobs. Knobs added =)

The design

The parts





The Assembly

The Spidocaster

Shared with the world
Spidocaster Guitar Files

Shared build


#167

Got to keep the wife happy with some shoe earrings…


#168

Nice!
I note you have cross linked supports, are they done with the XYZ-Nobel software?


#169

Yes, I always use the XYZ-Nobel support function. I usually first autogenerate the supports and then save the stl file. Then I reopen the stl file and add manual supports if I think it is necessary. This way I get the best of two worlds (auto + manual).

/Whazaa


#170

This is my first print on the Moai, other than the calibration cylinders and the ring. The result is staggering to me, coming from an FDM printer. It is from seechless on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99028). I’m going a bit off-topic, since this is a test print, but I couldn’t help myself.


#171

Thanks Whazaa, I will give that a try.


#172

A painted bust of George Washington from the Smithsonian Institution’s collection of scanned artifacts. The site has probably been posted here before, but I’ll post it just in case:

https://3d.si.edu/

It is definitely worth browsing.


#174

The MOAI is a dream. After I switched to wingnuts I can simply put the card in, hit print. and magic happens.

I’m used to designing for injection molding so most of the same rules here with the major exceptions of draft and undercuts.

Neon green Poepoly resin
Low deviation STL
Default fine settings in Cura
100MB gcode
Shake N’ Bake (I throw the prints in a ziplock with alcohol, shake, drain, repeat a few times, put out in the sun to bake.
100% net raw print, no sanding, no supports, no anything, printed perfection.



#175

More raw magic.

MOAI wing nut knobs / locks.


#176

was this done in Makerjuice WaxCast or Fun To Cast resin?

Do you set the stone after metal casting or you dewax/cast with the stone placed in the investment?


#177

Beautiful finish, how did you get that lacquered paint job done, it looks so thin!


#178

again how do you guys get that finish? I don’t see any print lines. My cats all turn out with annoying lines at 25 micron print. Was this printer at 25 or 50 micron?


#179

Hi!

Just two layers of red spraypaint and then two layers of clear coat spraypaint (for cars).


#180

thanks for the info!


#181


#182

100um