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#142

You can try that and most of the ash might burn away.

The ring I did today turned out very good, and I should be finished with it tomorrow, the buyer is asking his girlfriend to marry him next week. I made it out of a old white gold bar pin from the 1920’s so its 14K and has a little platinum in it also. I forgot how hard the white gold was back then, so I broke a couple of prongs and will attach a new head to it tomorrow Lord’s will.
The ring polishing and filing waste was 10% which is acceptable to me. Ash was about a third of a percent so not bad. My next burnout will be 7 hours at 1500 degrees depending on model, hopefully that will remove the rest of the ASH!


#143

I thought about trying the resin that breaks down in water, maybe it might work with a wax steamer. Now Blue cast does have some advantages one hour burnout, but the models once cast don’t look any better than what were using.


#144

Did a overnight burn with Wax Cast and it came out 99.5 Ash free! Casting weighed 3.8 grams and finished ring 3,5 grams Not bad. I used plasticast and burned out with a high temp 1500 degrees for six plus hours, total burnout time about 11 hours. Attached are photos of the finished ring. Opal with one diamond on each side. Because of flash Opal did not show its beautiful blues and greens.


#145

Yeah, there is an art to photographing opals, especially in jewelry (multiple exposures, long macro lens, and point lights to bring out the fire).


#146

I had to finish this up and send it to Fiji islands the buyer is proposing next weekend.


#147

Hey Bobby, been using Waxcast for a couple of days. I’ve had only one successful print so far. The print falls off the build plate three quarters through the print. Are you roughing up your build plate for better adherence? Maybe just rubbing down with alcohol might not be enough?


#148

I read somewhere that someone put a thin layer of Peopoly resin on their build plate and then cured it with a UV light to get some other type of resin to stick.


#149

Yes I took course sandpaper and did the whole surface of build plate. After sanding took Alcohol and a cloth and rub it until it was very clean. I have never had a print fall off expect at the very beginning, and I had a few of those!


#150

@Bobby_Allen
is this burnout process similar to yours?


#151

No and it will not work! Need at least 6-8 hours at 1450-1500 degrees and than another few hours for warm up and cool down. Casting temp can be anywhere from 950-1050 degrees depending on size of object and melt. The larger the melt the cooler the flask at casting.
I’ve tried their settings along with other and there is just to much ash in the cast. Eight hours gets rid of 99.5 of the Ash in Wax Cast.


#152

so you have tried Formlabs’ wax resin in your workflow yet?


#153

Now if the object to be cast is big without fancy filigree the burnout could be less, but for 95% of all jewelry it will need the 6-8 hours at the 1450-1500 degrees.


#154

Finally my first 25um print. It came out wonderfully… better than expected actually.

Sorry no banana for scale but it’s just 35mm to the top of the hat.

The second layer peeled a little away on the back where suction was higher, but it didn’t compromise the overall quality. I still have to understand how to prevent that.

Very pleased so far, it’s a bit hit-n-miss with the moai, but honestly it’s not worse than any other 3d printer I have.


#155

please run the updated leveling and lets see how yours is set up. Maybe we can optimize there.


#156

I don’t have issues with build plate adhesion. The first layer sticks to the plate pretty well. But at 25um the second layer peels off from the first.

Is that something to do with leveling too?


#157

leveling is more than just about the first layer sticking. Let’s use the leveling thread for that instead of here.


#158

As one of my many printer uses I’ve made custom stamps for leathercraft. This is a 100micron stamp for a key fob. Remarkably the layer lines actually can imprint leather


#159

I finally was able to print my first print on the MOAI! I’m super excited! I used laser power 58. 100micron in Cura. Should I put my laser power back to 61? I do see some layer banding on parts of Batman, especially on the feet. Any idea why this occurred or is it typical because I printed at 100 micron? Would the layer banding improve if I made a new print at 50m and 25m? Do my supports look adequate? If there is anything I can do to improve and make my prints even better I would appreciate any tips. Thanks!


#160

Yes, the lines are due to the layer height. Printing at 50 micron would make them much better.


#161

Hi Everyone! Loving my new Moai! I finally have it leveled and here is my latest test. It came out great!