Yes I’ve done mostly gold but some silver also, it works great.
That’s great news and a great tip. I’ll look into FTD very soon. I’ve got a ton of other resins to get through first.
Such a shame Waxcast is so temperamental. I’ve got an entire litre of the stuff!
You can cast with Wax Cast but it really does some strange things in the burnout oven, and that just creates a lot of extra work.
Also with Wax Cast I was losing about 20% or a little more in fillings in order to correct all of the problems in burnout. FTD Cast your weight loss should be around 10% in cleanup.
Im doing my first print now. Just a test piece involving some large 3d text. Ill be moving on to the jewellery soon. Now, any tips on scaling on Cura? Or is the printer pretty accurate so that we dont have to scale up to allow for shrinkage? My guess that there would be a 2% shrinkage during casting.
My guessing is that your stones were fitting in your resin model but were too large after casting?
Yes there is shrinkage, and the amount depends upon the resin. You will need to experiment with the scaling to get it just right for you and your machine. Most of my work I can get by with one percent and that is using FTD Cast.
Its been over a week with it, and its been really fun. I still get anxious about failing prints, but they have all been due to user error.
Today I’m comparing two wax cast resins with two different styles ring models. The first light color ring model is Wax Cast and has settings for gemstones with prongs. The second is a simple wave style mount for bezel set gemstones, the second deep red is FTD Cast resin. Both rings models will be cast at the same time in one flask, and will endure a 10 Hour burnout cycle. Metal will be 14K white gold and I’m using Satin Cast investment and not Platicast. I chose Satin cast for this first test since I want to see how it reacts to both resins, and it’s so much easier to get the bubbles out of the investment.
Now I do know that the test is a little unfair since I’m using two different models, but these are the ones that were handy at the time, and so it was easy to start testing.
I have poured the investment and they are in the oven, will cast around Ten tonight.
Here is a photo of both rings in the flask.
Intrigued! Keep me posted.
After today’s burnout, my burnout time is changing.
Over Half hour at 500 degrees and than 8-10 hours at 1400 degrees, and the last hour prior to casting 950-1050 degrees.
Today’s outcome Wax Cast wins! A lot less Ash was left after burnout for nine hours. (See photos) And would require less time to finish. FTD Cast had at least 10 times more ash than WaxCast.
Tomorrow test will involve The two resins again and burnout time will increase two hours at 1400 degrees. And again I will use satin investment, instead of Plasticast.
Tomorrow burnout 30 minutes at 500 degrees
9-10 hours at 1400 degrees
and last hour 950-1050 degrees
By increasing the high temp burnout it eliminated most of the Ash in Wax Cast resin, and hopefully the additional two hours will eliminated the rest of it. Will also see what the extra two hours does to the FTD Resin.
I use to be a real big fan of FTD Wax, but something has changed and it does not burn out as well as it use to.
Below are photos of the test today.
How is wax cast on the PDMS? FTD cast seems to have done some hard work on my PDMS and I’ve only just got started with the bottle. Have you found FTD cast to burn through your PDMS?
Also - I like the color changing of the wax cast - easier to know when it’s fully cured.
Wax Cast is better on the PDMS but the details on model are not as good as FTD Cast.
Doing another test now between the two resins and I’m going to extend the burnout at 1400 for two more hours for a total of ten hours. And I’m still testing Satin Cast investment.
Yesterday Wax Cast won in amount of leftover ash, so lets see what the extended burnout does today.
These are the two rings I’'m burning out now.
Just finished the casting and both rings look good with very little ASH! The Wax Cast came out just about perfect and did not have to sand the finish at all, just took some triple e and polished part of one side, very clean but after burnout of 10 hours at 1,400 degrees it should be. The FTD Wax also came out clean but not as good as the Wax Cast resin.
I just used standard Satin cast investment and I saw no difference that the Plasticast which is double the price.
Review FTD prints out a better 3D model than Waxcast, and both Wax Cast and FTD Cast cand be used for casting with standard Satin cast investment. Now if you casting has fine detail use FTD Cast medium detail and regular 3D modl making for casting you can use Wax Cast.
Burnout time is WAY HIGHER and LONGER than previous documentation! For clean burnout and casting I recommend a 10 plus burnout 9-10 hours at 1350-1400 degrees 500 hundred degrees first hour than 10 hours of 1400 degrees and than cool down to 950 for casting.
Now these are for rings and jewelry with fine designs which will take the above burnout cycle.
I did not pickle the castings direct from investment.
Tomorrow I will have to cast for money, so no test but will post photo of finished engagement ring.
I have been lurking on this forum for a while and just got my own moai put together yesterday.
I don’t do any casting myself, but I am a metalsmith. I came across this article a little while ago and thought that you might be interested. Jim Binnion goes through a bunch of curing experiments to figure out how to get the best results.
Just thought I would get this link to you.
OK Today is a money making day! And here are the two rings that I will be casting, both are the same and the ring on the left in photo was printed in a fresh batch of Wax Cast, and the ring on the right is FTD Cast. Today I will pick the best of the two for a ring I’m doing for a customer who is getting married for the first time.
I’m going to use Plasticast investment since I’m going to do a six hour burnout, and for five of the hours the Temp will be 1500 degrees plus a few. So far with my castings in resin I’ve only been 30% happy with the turnout, since they require a whole lot more time to finish and have a larger waste in sanding and filings. So I’ve decided to test various settings and techniques in order to improve the finish cast. A ten hour 1400 degree burnout worked for both the Wax Cast and FTD Cast. But 10-12 hours is a long time, so today test is with the temp in excess of 1500 degrees and for five hours.
I will know the results later tonight.
10-12 hours at 1400F is a long time. last night I ran 1400F for four hours and it wasn’t quite long enough - still some ash residue but finally no more blowouts from undercuring. also - have you ever tried vacuuming out the flask to clean out the ash?
Yes I’ve tried doing the vacuum before cast, but only gave fair results. I’m doing a Wax Cast ring burnout now and I will burn it for six hours at 1500 degrees, total burnout time will be around eight hours maybe a tad more. I’m also using Plasticast investment since my burnout temp is higher than 1400 that I use for Satin cast. Wax Cast does very well if you use the higher temp and longer burnout. Now these temps and burnout times are for finely detailed jewelry only.
If you are using Plasticast investment increase your temp to 1500 degrees. It might also work with Satin cast investment but 1500 degrees would be borderline with using it.
Now I might have just gotten a old bottle of FTD Cast so I might order another batch to see if it burns out any better.
My final goal is to find a resin that will give me a perfect cast every time, just like the good old wax days. And I don’t mind burning out for a few extra hours if the results are worth it. And with the extended temp and burnout time I’m reaching that goal! (Hope I can figure it out shortly the electricity cost is killing me)
I’ll try taking it up to 1500 degrees. at these temps and hold times I wonder if we could just use the peoresin!
also eagerly waiting to see the results from the peowax in development.