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very nice! you beat me to it. (Game like Figures)


You guys doing castings, are you sanding the wax prints before molding them, or leave most the work for afterwards.


I do mostly jewelry and the only thing I do is make sure that there are no imperfections in the models, if they do have them I fix before investing and casting.


Still a little cleanup and paint required but very happy with how the printer is printing now.

2 new photos by Anthony Peacock


Probably need to tip the model back some more to get rid of some of the layer-lines in some areas like on the right leg. I think priming the model will help me see things better too.

I was impressed with how well the mesh mixer ladder support worked and how well the moai printed it. No real flaws except for a few layers on the leg.


I sprayed on some Tamiya Gray Primer. I was pretty surprised how well the details started to pop. Plus I can see where all the flaws are now, he-he. I have to be more careful with supports and orientation it would appear.


I really wanted to get a better quality print at 7 cm tall so I installed the latest firmware, made sure there was no dust on the acrylic protector piece over the laser, it was a little dusty. I then re-leveled to be sure. I noticed the leveling-nuts on the bottom of the vat could be better. Next I made sure the print bed wasn’t pressing down too hard on the vat. It was pressing down some at 1080 so I changed the z rest position to 1870 where is was barely touching the PDMS.

Then I noticed there was some fogging in the center of the vat so I moved the model to the back- left quadrant of the vat. I also rotated the model 90 degrees just to see what would happen there while keeping the support structure the same. So what you see here is a 7cm version of the above at 9cm but the sharpness of the detail is twice as good as the larger one but 25 microns for both.

Problem with details and lines

Do you mean 1877, otherwise you’re like 80mm away from the vat.


I meant 1870. 1880 was pressing down pretty hard on the vat.


Set at what works for you. The instruction “tightening nuts, so it just touching the bottom of the platform” means different things to different people, so you are welcome to deviate that the original setting if somehow works out better for you.

The condition for good print is that:

Build plate has to touch the PDMS are all four corners but without too much pressure. There is a bit of latitude with what it means to be “too much pressure” That is why some users who are making good prints event when they are going through PDMS layer very quickly.

The print side of the build plate should also parallel to the PDMS layer. That is accomplished by loosening and then tightening of nuts thanks to springs inside the platform.


Folks here is the results using FTD Cast, first my Moai laser power is set to 49, second My speed is at 147 But I have found that this setting is flexible and anything between 145-150 should be OK Now all lasers are slightly different so you might have to tweak your settings accordingly.
Print quality here is .050 and as you will notice most of the holes are all ready open, so there is less time preparing model to cast.


Hi there Bobby.

A fellow jewellery designer/maker here. I’ve been looking for a new printer and seeing if the Moai was a viable choice.

I’ve so far been using the LittleRP (dlp) and been getting fairly good results with B9 Yellow as well as many print failures. I’ve been trying Waxcast too, many times in fact. I get failures mostly. It keeps adhering to the vat/Teflon. Or the later layers give up. I’d prefer using Waxcast as it cures quickly and apparently burnout friendly.

I can’t afford an Asiga or something high end at the moment. The Moai looked like a really good choice. What are your recommendations on the printer? Worth investing or maybe save up for an Asiga?

Great work by the way. :grin:



The Moai is a great printer, and once you have figured out the settings and sweet spots on this machine it works like a dream!
Using FTD Cast it took me a few days to figured it out since you want it to cure with the least amount of energy, that way if you’re doing a ring for a lot of very tiny diamonds the holes will remain open. So far I have made over a thousand waxes sometimes just one at a time other times maybe 20 or more and my success is 80% plus which is so much better than anything else that I have ever owned.
My success rate could be in the 90 plus percent, but I prefer to keep my settings minimal so that the waxes will be lighter and easier to work with.

Any other questions just ask.



how has casting been like for the ftd cast??

any burnout recommendations ?


FTD cast does better than Wax cast.

I do a eight hour burnout first hour temp goes from 0-1000 degrees, Second hour 1000-1325 degrees, third to six hour I keep temperature steady at 1325 degrees than I reduce temperature the next few hours until I reach my casting temp of 950 degrees. If you have a large melt (Big Casting) my Casting temp on flask is reduced to 800 degrees. And if you do a few rings at a time you can cast at 900-1050 degrees

Hope that helps and if you have any other questions just ask.



great. thanks for the tips.


Had a little time to play around between functional prints. So this was a little over an hour at 100microns, straight off the bed with no supports. Peopoly gray. Pretty happy with how this turned out.


Hello again Bobby!

Just got my Moai of eBay and just picked it up😁

I’ve not set it up yet. My guessing that it will need some calibration before printing.

I’ll be using either B9 Yellow or Waxcast from here on.

I’m sure I’ll come across the settings options for the resins I wish to use. Do you have an ideal setting?

Thanks again.



You can do the search for WaxCast here, but my power level was 59

Now what are you going to make? If you do jewelry I don’t recommend WaxCast go with Fun to do cast instead, better burnout and less clean up.

Wax Resin Alternatives and Settings/Use for Jewelers

I’ve had a look at FTD website. I did take a look at their castable blend but it doesn’t mention casting in precious metals? I only read base metals. So you can cast in silver and gold with this resin?