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#61

i was using the sample test file that was supplied to us. i dont think its the vat, as i printed in the grey peopoly resin perfectly fine.

im leaning towards contamination of the waxcast resin. I only have the one vat and switched from the peopoly grey to the wax cast, I cleaned it but, i wouldnt say thorough. Ill try cleaning the vat build plate and all the tools spot clean and using new resin from the bottle. May be possible that the peopolly resin and waxcast dont mix well and was causing the failed prints…??


#62

No I’ve gone from peopoly to waxcast without any problems. Have you tried just printing at the front of the build plate?


#63

yes, ive tried the front 2 corners.


#64

try about a inch in from each corner and two or three objects. The bed might be level but the PDMS layer may not be perfectly level. That’s what I’m trying to figure out.

Also I noticed in your photos that it looks like some of the prints turned out, did they?


#65

And if they did how soft or mushy was the prints? If they were a little mushy you need to increase laser power by one or two


#66

okay ill try that once after work. The prints didnt turn out, the closest ones were on the right side but some of the supports are missing. and didnt stick to the ring itself.


#67

I would increase laser power by 1, 2, or 3 points. When I was testing waxcast I did laser power of 54 and prints were mushy so I gradually climb to 59 laser power and they were perfect. And since all lasers vary in power output you might have to increase yours.
Let me know.


#68

So, i did the very thorough clean up by, discarding old resin, wiping the vat down, wiped the bottom of the aycrlic and added new resin, only filled up a quarter, rather than slightly lower than the tank line, re-leveled. and laser level at 60.
my z and pm speed were still very low 20 and 25 and had very promising results.
supports didnt come out, and bottom larger support was squished, but the ring did come out.

will do few adjustments, but things are looking up.


#69

Good! but you do not need the big flat support for bottom. I just did eight rings and look at my supports this will give you an idea, I only use maybe one tenth of what you do and I raise the ring up six MM so that will act as the sprue for when you get ready to cast.

Look at photos.


#70

great thanks for the tip will try that on future prints.


#71

john, can you also give me your settings from the setup and advance setting menu? the left side looks like crushed


#72

new settings guy, this reduces separation force significantly and will really help on the left side of the print which is where @John_Chang was having problems with the test rings

some users also dial down to 59 for Peopoly Resin and have been getting good results

key settings and links:


#73

setup: everything default except,
z speed 20
pm speed 35

advance: everything default except,
z follow 100


#74

As of now i think makerjuice waxcast is pretty much setup. thanks bobby.

my goal was to get b9cherry to work.

i have exposure rates for mj waxcast and b9cherry on my dlp printer, now that i have an idea where waxcast is on the moai, i will be spending my tests with b9cherry.

as for ftd cast, just got word that they are back ordered and im looking at about a month or so for my shipment.


#75

I recommend you take the pm motor and z . motor speed as we recommend now. Slower doesn’t always mean better as plate and vat move in conjunction. Your broken rings on the left is probably caused by your object slamming into vat due to pm motor tilting too slow while the plate drops

And lower the z follow to 100 should help.


#76

ok. i will do that. thanks.


#77

what software do you guys use for your jewellery design? I’m looking to get into it as a hobby thing but don’t want to spend a few grand on Matrix


#78

Mostly Rhino gold plus T-splines handle 90% of my needs. The only problem is its kinda expensive, so to get started there are some free software out there just do a Google search.


#79

Here is a Hugh ring that I just 3D printed with the Moai and as you can tell it’s a work of art. Now it will take me about a month or so to finish this ring since I have to catch up on my back orders first. The center stone will be Lavender Jade surrounded by 5-6 carats of diamonds in two rows. Weight of ring will be a super heavy 40 Grams. A work of Art in progress.


#80

I got my sensor back online after I damaged it. (Pro Tip: Make sure your plate is not rubbing against the sensor). Thanks Mark for the help on that.

First animal print in this thread! This is also my first complex pose print on the Moai. Super translucent so I’ll have to prime the dog. I wasn’t terribly surprised this turned out, it took much less support material than an FDM printer and nearly a quarter of the time if not less. I had some issues not making the supports thick enough and the print just fell off the plate. The head needed some support inside it too so it wouldn’t deform. I think from now on things will be much easier to do with an SLA printer of this quality. Plus she has perfectly smooth layers :wink: .