This is the T-Rex Skeleton created by the MakerBot team that’s available on Thingiverse. I scaled the parts by 150% and printed them on the Moai (obviously, I guess). It’s approximately 36" long and will stand 14" high when it’s finally mounted. It weighs about 400 grams painted, and was printed in standard Peopoly clear resin in a FEP tray using the self-leveling build plate.
I used Asura to do all of the hollowing, supports, and slicing. The parts are hollow with 0.75mm thick walls, except the ribs and the lower jaw which were printed solid. Most of the parts didn’t require any supports, and I only experienced one failed part during the entire print. There were 15 STL files to print. Each file was sliced at 60μm, and the entire model took about a week complete running the machine almost non-stop.
It’s painted with water-based acrylics. Acrylic water-based paints don’t stick to acrylic plastic, so I had to find an ideal primer that would hold the acrylic paint well, which turned out to be very difficult. After buying almost every spray primer at Home Depot, the best “primer” turned out to be Rust-Oleum Chalkboard spray paint. The water acrylics stick to this stuff extremely well. The paint job is a combination of brushing, airbrushing, and washing to achieve a somewhat-fossil-like effect.
If you’re considering making one of these yourself, then I have some suggestions., First, I would suggest hollowing the parts with 1mm thick walls for extra strength. I would also suggest taking the hollowed out models into Blender or another modeling program to reinforce some of the joints. Acrylic resin is very brittle stuff, and it really needs nice, thick junctions between perpendicular structures to prevent bending and cracking. As I was assembling the Rex, some of the pegs and holes actually did crack. I patched these up using Epoxy resin, and I replaced most of the plastic pegs with wood dowels. Unfortunately it wasn’t enough, as a couple of the model’s joints are still quite fragile, particularly the junction between the the rib cage and the pelvis. To help reinforce this, I will be adding two extra vertical rods to the Rex when I mount it. One rod under his neck to help support the front assembly, and another under the tail. The original design calls for only a single mounting rod under the pelvis, which is approximately where the model’s center-of-gravity is located.
I have a plank of African Padauk wood that I’m going to mill into a decorative platform. I’m also tossing around the idea of adding mud and plants to the top of the plate to create a realistic museum-like scene. We’ll see how well that goes.