Questions on Leveling with FEP vat and Easy to Level Buildplate


#1

I leveled the buildplate following the instructions and ran the DIY-Test gcode.

From what I’ve read, the pegs should be between 10.8 to 10.95 mm for the FEP vat.

My pegs came out with these heights:
A: 11.00
B: 11.23
C: 11.04
D: 10.90

What do I need to decrease the peg height? I read that adjusting the z-reset height should affect the peg height, but do I increase or decrease the z-reset height?

Also, can I re-level the buildplate while resin is in the vat? Or do I now need to empty the vat if I have to fiddle with the buildplate screws?


First time leveling, FEP and easy-level, too little pressure?
#2

you might have a problem similar to this:

I helped someone with the easy level plate and FEP vat, as it’s what I have. The default number they suggest isn’t great I don’t think, should be closer to 1810, or at least that is what I used.

Also yes, you need to empty the VAT before releveling.


#3

Ok. So, to confirm, I should decrease the z reset and try printing the pegs again? It’s currently at 1816. Or do I just relevel the build plate with a new z reset, then print the pegs?

Or, do I need to take everything out and level the older way first, with my pdms vat and original buildplate, then level with the fep and easy to level buildplate?

I’m just a bit confused. I’ve had the printer for a year and leveled it a few times before using the older/original method.


#4

if your pegs are too high, you are using easy to level build plate so no need to adjust the screws
follow this guide ;https://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:levelingnewplate&s[]=leveling
for FEP vat 1816 is default


#5

If you were levelled before trying with the FEP/Easy level, it should be ok as long as you haven’t adjusted the screws much since then.

If you you look at your easy level plate, does it look like the screws are pushed all the way to the top? There is a little channel the screw is supposed to sit in when you tighten them, you want this relatively still near the centre. I found that 1816 meant that my easy level plate got pushed right in, so trying to screw it up didn’t actually do anything. That’s why 1810 is a little more forgiving. your results may vary if you adjust the screws underneath though.

So to confirm, if you haven’t messed with the screws underneath too much, then go straight for easy level plate, with a Z height that doesn’t push the plate up too much. If you have played around with the screws you can always just use the old build plate with the FEP and relevel the fep first, so you know it’s back to standard. Don’t need to use PDMS at all.


#6

I just re-leveled (following the guide as before) after emptying the vat (which I was dreading, but it’s so, so much easier to clean than the PDMS!). The buildplate screws are right in the middle of the channels (pretty similar to when I leveled it last night). I’m waiting for my heater to get the chamber back up to temp and then I’ll run the peg test file again and see if anything changed.

I haven’t touched the screws under the vat and it looks like I won’t need to, just need to fiddle with the buildplate from now on.

Edit:
Ok, I’ve leveled twice today and my results were as follows:
A: 11.09
B: 10.9
C: 11.17
D: 10.97

Then:
A: 11.05
B: 10.92
C: 11.22
D: 11.05

So now, I’ve put the z reset at 1817 and will see how the measurements change. I’m guessing that I need a combination of different z reset and build plate level to get the correct level result.


#7

My latest results are:
Z reset at 1818

A: 10.89
B: 10.73
C: 10.95
D: 10.81

Would this be an acceptable set?

Thank you for all the help. It is very appreciated.


#8

Good results, I would say C is still a little high, I would much prefer it to be closer to 10.8, but might be acceptable.

If our can be bothered, I would really want to try and level it again, if not, just change the Z one more step to make the pegs shorter. B would be a little low, but I would prefer that than the platform digging into the vat too much.

Can you post a photo of the screws on the easy level too, to make sure they aren’t over compressing?


#9

I will try bumping the z reset one more. I’ve done this leveling six times, so I’m wondering if there’s something else I need to do.

I tried printing the test ring and it looked good, but then I tried printing my own models and had failures. Detached supports and supports that end prematurely, heavy striations, and one piece that is partially just a thin layer. I’m wondering if some was caused by my heater running after the print finished (the supports popped off on some edges, not the other issues)? Or is it all related to the settings? Or could it be orientation and layout issues?

Here are the screws:

Edit:
Peg test at 1819:
A: 10.77
B: 10.63
C: 10.84
D: 10.68


#10

Screws look I a good position, so that seems ok.

Still slightly out on the levelling, if you do have the time you could try relegating the build platform again. On the the thingiverse Moai group there is a “helper” to help push down the corners evenly. But requires getting that printed really.

If you have the pdms vat too, you could use that to level the build plate again, you Wille need to adjust z heights each time, but should keep the build plate level just fine.

For the other errors you are having, it could be numerous things. Once you have your levelling where you are happy then make a new thread and people can start diagnosing those problems next :slight_smile:


#11

Hi I do not think the leveling is the issue, because the height of the pilars are close enough.


#12

you need to increase z reset to decrease the peg height

z reset is how much plate press down
a single unit is 0.1mm