Printed object with deep stepped lines


#21

It looks good but i would print something straight up. It will be easier to see the artifacts and check the distances.

As @BlueDinos said… i dont know if you checked the rails since you said everything is tight but take a close look at it to check if you have any play in it.


#22

Ok, I’ve done that THREE times already, is there any other screw check other than these?

http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai-checkup

Sorry, but to be asked to do the same thing over and over is not going to resolve this matter. I’ve checked all the mechanical components through the last two days.

About the test, I’ll do a straight version and a 45 degree version, but I’m pretty sure it’s not support related and the stepped lines should appear in both, unfortunately.

Anyway, for what we are seen, I’m going to need at least a new galvo board and the z structure replacement.


#23

Yea… sometimes we (the people that are helping) look like a broken record but its for good reason. Sometimes people will forget to check something or not doing it the right way.

In your case and after so many checks everything seems to be correct in that department.

Post some pics after the prints. It would be good if we can try and identify if the shift is happening in the xy or yx direction… then you could try and swap the galvo cables to see if the shift changes direction.

With all that info and pics you can send an email to peopoly for them to check and send you the new galvos if that proves to be the issue.

I know it must be annoying and irritating not being able to print reliably but im sure you will get that sorted out. =)


#24

Those photos didn’t seem to make you check the screw on the rail itself, which was put on from the factory. I have 2 FMD printers that uses these rails and honestly, it got loose through time so I always check them to make sure they are tight and straight 90 degree angle.


#25

Thanks for the info, I´ll check these as well, these were the only ones I didn´t check (they´re not in the wiki´s check list, ate least I didn´t find them). I´m finishing the test cilinders, tomorrow I´ll be posting the results.


#26

Sounds good! Hopefully nothing major is going on going from one vat to another then back. Honestly I love the FEP vat and new adjustable build plate. I’ve been printing with FEP for years now so I got plenty of practice and trial and errors to figure out how to use SLA, DLP, and LED printers. It’s frustrating in the beginning, but once you get the hang of it, it’s well worth the efforts! Keep at it!!

PS: can you confirm that the front of your character, the lines are debossed and the back lines are embossed? That’s what it looks like in the photos and if so then this indicates possible mechanical issue…something is out of alignment to make the platform move in one direction every maybe 5mm gaps?


#27

Hey Ricardo

Just wanted to give you an update from my side. I switched the galvo cables over and the layer shift has changed direction from left to right to front to back. I’m going to make sure with a far simpler print tonight (might as well save myself some resin since I’m nearly through another entire bottle thanks to this) with a simple shape with one side triangular to point in the direction of orientation and place it in the centre of the build plate. I’ll switch the cables back over, print it and then switch the cables again and repeat.

That should make it pretty obvious that it’s a galvo problem then and make it harder for me to make any mistake when it comes to the model moving around the build plate.


#28

Hi Ben and folks, something really unexpected happened, my last test had zero stepped lines, zero, both 45 degrees and straight cilinder. To further test, I did another print with my model and the stepped lines were gone as well. I have to say, I don’t know if I get reliefed or worried, since now I really don’t know exactly what is the cause of the problem. Above are the images of the last test and my model. Any ideas?

And yes, exactly the same settings between tests.


#29

No checks or re-tightening of screws between these prints and the earlier ones then?

If the problem is intermittent it will be hard to pin-point… but as it is… the likeliness of being a mechanical problem just got less… likely (unless something was binding and somehow got free… but the lines were to perfect lol)

I dont kow if you did this but did you check the X and Y galvo connections and connectors on the boards? Do they look fine? I would remove, clean and insert them back just to be sure everything is nice and secure.

Other than that i dont really know what more to suggest lol… Keep printing and see if the problem reappears…


#30

Like Leonard says, maybe something was bind and got freed on its own. The ball screw has lots of little ball bearing in it so it is possible that one of the ball got stuck and was causing the issue. Just keep an eye on it, but hopefully it doesn’t come back.


#31

That’s really weird. But also good news :stuck_out_tongue: Glad you’re getting prints. I’m pretty certain i’m about to come to the conclusion that my Y galvo is knackered.


#32

Yep, I agree, will work and see if the problem comes back. The good thing is, the machine is well calibrated and checked.

Some hipothesis:

  • something was slightly off place and came back

  • galvo cables slightly unplugged (I checked the cables once at least)

  • Power input variation?

  • Heater with fan producing ripples in the resin? My incubator’s heater fan doesn’t point to my vat, but to outer side and the wind is very weak. But, it was turned off in these last two prints.

Another thing, the dimensional calibration cube made a big difference in the dimensional accuracy as the image shows. Not perfect, but way better than what I was getting before.

Anyway, I’ll keep observing, I have three big and complex prints to do, will keep updating any findings or problems.


#33

could be electrical interference from the heater itself or other appliances in the house


#34

hey Ricardo, so glad you’ve got prints coming out nice now. I think the same miracle may have happened for me as well. I printed one of my tests and got a massive layer shift from door to back (only lower down than it was before). I switched the cables, tried again and this morning I found the piece rotated 90 degrees as expected but no layer shift at all in either direction. I’m printing another test while i’m at work so we’ll see if it was a fluke or if miracles actually exist.


#35

Got back to PDMS and blue resin, everything is working again, no glitches. But I have to say, I´m still really dissapointed with the way the new fep vat and hi-temp resin were described and advertised.

IMHO, the best resins for sculptures and small action figures with many small details are the grey and blue regular resins. Still need to use the black resin, but both hold more detail than hi-temp and are way easier to use.

And now, I have a paper weight that costs almost one hundred bucks, plus 2 liters of grey hi-temp which I´ll try to use in less critical work together with my recoated VAT and new adjustable plate, which I´ve switched all the screws for good ones. Many problems, @peopolysupport and @peopoly which I hope you guys say something official about.

And I know a few users can make hi-temp to work, but as I said before, I don´t think something can be advertised as “hi-temp Grey is designed for higher resolution and smooth finishes. It is favored by many sculptors and modelers for final products or mold making. The dark grey brings out the details and is very easy to post process, greatly reduce finish time.” That´s simply not true. Period. Smooth finishes yes (partially), but the lost of details and inconsistency is real and is a pain in the @#$%.


#37

hi Ricardo,

Sorry about the issues you have had. It is too bad we could not make a quick call to work as I was on the road for most of the last 3 weeks.

It appears your issues with lines are not entirely related to FEP vat because the lines are there with PDMS vat as well and then it disappears. Base on the consistency of it and how it went away, it is likely electronics and has to do with environment interference. I included extra power board when I shipped you last time. If this happens again, please swap the power board.

On the FEP vat, the film initial shipped was not as great as we like. It gets punctured more easily and sometimes requires higher pm reset distance to separate cleanly. We have since found a more durable and stiffer film and got great feedback on it. We have offered that free 1 for 1 in our public post to anyone who buys it before a date in Sep and you certainly qualify.

The hitemp resin is a puzzling case for us. We have users who raved about it and completely switched to it and quite a few of them are model makers. And then some users have had issues printing with it. You could check with Evan Morgan, John Chen and others in the FB group who are very reputable and are all on hitemp and well known in the community and @Leonardo @matt3o who has accumulated a lot of experience with it. We have narrowed down to most likely factors to 3:

  1. printing temperature >=30C
  2. how supports/bases are set up.
  3. flesh tone resin is related to white color resin and those are typically harder to print than translucent resin colors like blue, red and green. The short reason is that light solid color reflects off UV light and takes more energy to fully cured a section. This would make some support/base design that would work in blue/red/green that might not work for solid black/grey/white.

The ideal support for laser SLA is very thick beams but less dense than how many software is generating. And thicker base as well. I am going to address factor 2/3 via Asura software and 1 via heater with built-in sensor. I am not saying your issue is related to the above factors as I am sharing what we found. It is highly unlikely that resin itself is faulty because all are mixed in one giant container before putting into each bottle. It has to be intentional to even make one bottle of resin different than another bottle if they are from the same batch.

At the end of the day, getting you back to good printing results is the main goal. I will reach privately to see what to go from this point on for you as Brazil is harder to ship than most other places. @bendouglas86 , please reach out to me on support too.


Help with HI-Temp resin
#38

@peopoly I have done so. iMaker.com have been trying to get into contact with you all week as well but haven’t been able to get a response from you.


#39

I’m in the same boat with hi-temp, ordered 3L a couple of months ago, wasted 1L just doing tests trying to get it working at the same level of grey / white resins and…nothing, I’m just trying to find a way to use 2L of resin that I can’t use in any of my projects…quite the expensive paper weight indeed.

I also made the same point in my post, it’s really dissapointing as a sculptor to see this resin advertised as it is right now.

Oh, and that’s a pretty cool ecorche, nice job!

PD: I’m still waiting for a response to my latest post @peopoly Help with HI-Temp resin


#40

Hi Obieteru,

Yep, I´ve ordered a heater from Peopoly, since mine looks like it is causing interference. I hope this helps, since I have almost 2,5L of hi-temp and it´s just too much waist, it will have to work some how. And thanks! I´m preparing a small batch of my ecorché. After adjusting the X and Y values through the cube printing, the parts fit improved significantly.


#41

I am having the same problems that you originally posted. Did you ever figure out what the exact issue is?
There are artifact lines at a very even cadence on my prints.