Print failure after FEP replacement

So, I have the advanced glass plate with PDMS for the Moai 200, and ever since I replaced the FEP film back in february, when it got damaged, I haven’t been able to print right.

I tried to get help on this post back then but to this day I’m still waiting to hear Peopoly’s reply after I did what they asked me to do and share the results.

I’ve been trying a lot of different things since then, but it never printed well again. I think there is something wrong with the FEP application onto the VAT. I’ve tried replacing the film multiple times, always following the tutorials, like this and this.

I always make sure there is absolutely no air trapped inside, I push out every single bubbles, and make sure there is no dust, hairs or anything trapped inside. But still, after printing for a few minutes, air bubbles appear between the FEP film and the advanced glass with PDMS. I dont get why, but I suspect that is why the prints are failing. I’ve tried using a replacement glass plate but this still happens.

The objects always end up deformed with some kind of loose skin attached on the sides, like fish scales or mushrooms on a tree.

I’m using default settings on the printer, and tried multiple resins and multiple laser power from 52 to 60 and this still happens. I tried with new resins, and with default gcode files that came in the sd card like the test ring and the 4moai, it happens the same thing. It’s not about the model, the supports, the slicing or the resin, I know that much for sure. But I think the problem is in the VAT or the build plate.

The following images are with a ultimaker robot model which I adapted for SLA, but if you want to confirm with the default test ring file, check my last response on this post, there I have pictures of it with the same exact issue.

If someone could help me get the printer to work well again that would be fantastic, since my last decent print was from january…


There’s 1 thing we didn’t check in the last post, is the Galvo mirrors and laser unit
i would like you to run the circle test, see if the laser is bleeding on the film
check the mirrors and acrylic protector for dust
you can go through the whole checkup following this guide :[]=check&s[]=up

Hey, yes I’ve checked the laser with the test circle a few weeks ago, it worked nicely, there was no issues with the test.

It’s been months with this problem, I’ve gone through all your manuals, guides and tutorials I could find, hoping to find the problem, but so far nothing.

For now my main suspicion is on the bubbles between the FEP film and the advanced PDMS plate. Because even if there are no bubbles right after recoating the film, after printing, they appear again.

I’d double check your gcode in cura … it could be light bleeding related … but to me it looks like maybe during a layer the model isn’t hitting the bed … then when it dose finally build up to hit the model again the layer on the bed has drifted because of the tilt … it could be that your bed level needs to be look … …

Ive had many problems with the pdms plate, if you have the standard glass plate that the earlier 200’s came with you might want to test that, keep in mind you’ll have to adjust the height and re-level everything. I know the pdms is supposed to be better but I still haven’t got a good print from using it. If that still shows issues then you know the problem is with the mirrors, laser power or galvos.

It’s not the gcode, I’ve tried with cura and with asura, I’ve tried slicing new models and tried the default gcode files that came with the SD card. They all print with those deformations.

I’ve printed the leveling pegs multiple times to check the bed level, they are all within 9mm and 10.5mm, so the bed leveling is fine.

Light bleeding seems more like it, but the layers aren’t shifting. The problem is the air bubbles, they always appear and I dont understand why. Light its a point where there is a bubble of air in-between the PDMS plate and the FEP film, and it obviously gets distorted, so instead of a point, an whole area receives light therefore creating those weird fins.

But I’ve been printing A LOT with the PDMS plate for over 6 months before this happened, and it was all good. I’ve checked leveling, with the leveling pegs, they are all within the desired range. And I have no way of testing without the PDMS, I have a spare plate but it is also a PDMS bed. I’ve checked the mirrors for dust or any signs of problems but they seem ok, I also checked connections and loose cables, but I found nothing wrong.

hi @joaoduarte, sorry for a long time without responding
at 1st i thought that it was some deformations from the pictures
but now after taking a closer look, i can see that the deformation part was actually the ring test printed over the model
i suggest a full re-format SD card and re-flashing the firmware :

I’ve had that problem with the multiple models in the SD card being printed all mixed together back in december, but I dont think that’s it this time. Because since then, I always reformat the SD card before putting a new gcode file inside.

And also, when I added the gcode of this robot to the SD card, not only I reformatted the card, but I didn’t put anything else on the SD card, the only file there was the robot, inside a folder called “prints”. I’ve been trying my best to try and isolate possible causes.

there were some causes what we speculated over a year ago when SD cards issues was overwhelming.
the problem most likely lies in the firmware where it keeps the ghost files from the card, that’s why i want you to try and re-flash the firmware