Photocentric printing and cast

Been gone a while tending to my other businesses of selling gemstones, but the Christmas season is upon us and I have a few custom made jobs to do. So I bought some Photocentric castable resin since I heard it leaves ZERO ash, and the strange thing is it burns out clean. But the problem with the Resin is you’re lucky if the models turn out. I’m still playing with the settings hoping to find the magic ones. But here are some photos of a ring I printed with Photocentric castable, and cast and finished in 18K gold today. This ring printed OK. I had to do some work on it before casting, but the casting came out real good. So now it’s a matter of getting the perfect setting for this resin.


Just made a new model with this resin and the quality is getting better, but not perfect yet. I will be casting the ring in a few hours and will let you all know how it turns out.

So far it looks great and will be looking forward to an update

This resin is a pain when you are doing bigger rings, seems like a lot of flaky resin likes to stick to it, so the prints are ruined.
Smaller rings do OK, but I might go to the Bluecast if I can’t improve on the bigger rings.

Quality getting much better. First I tried to print using 100 setting, on the smaller size rings not a problem but the bigger ones were just messes. So yesterday I decided to try .060 setting after adjusting the print speed and PM settings the results were good, and some of the best prints that I have done with this resin so far see photos. So in my closing, Photocentric resin will be a alternative to bluecast, and you don’t need to heat the resin just room Temperature just remember you need to print slow with it!

Bobby, et. al.,
Glad to see your progress with casting things with the photocentric castable resin. I’m making some Christmas ornaments for gifts. Here is my process:
I printed on a Peopoly Moai at 80F
I cleaned the prints in warm soapy water with a soft bristle tooth brush
I post-processed the prints under water with a 40 Watt UV light for 20 minutes
I sprayed the parts with silicone mold release
I invested the prints in Kerr Satin Cast 20 investment
I let the investment set up over night
My burnout schedule is very slow (14 hours), adapted from:
“FormLabs Resin Castable Resin: Jewelry Pattern Burnout Process”
ramp at 1.9F/min to 350F (150 min)
soak at 350F (30 min)
ramp at 3.7F/min to 1350 (270 min)
soak at 1350 (180 min)
ramp at 3.0F/min down to 900F (150 min)
soak at 900 (60 min)

To me it looks like the investment is spalling. (photos available if it would help). I made some flat Christmas ornaments with ornaments sticking up .5mm from the background. I kept the details fairly simple to ensure success. In the castings, there is silver piled up in in gaps between the ornaments. It looks like the investment is failing. The image shows one of the many places that failed. It is extremely repeatable. I made 12 copies of the ornament in the photos, and all of them showed failures in similar places.

I’m wondering if the part puts stress on the investment as it warms, causing cracks and failures in the investment?

Progress was going good, until my FEP film got cloudy, tore a tad, and got saggy which in turn affected the prints in a BIG WAY! Waiting for more film, been sitting at LAX for five days now. Hopefully I will start testing again in a few days.
My casting were doing very well with just a three hour burnout nice and clean, I preheat in a convection oven for a hour with a max temp of 500 degrees, and then heat in oven and make sure it rises to 1375 or a tad more and keep it there for a hour or more and then let it cool down to 975-1050 and cast.
But the problem is still finding those magic setting for the Photocentric Castable. Hopefully I will get the FEP today so I can start playing again.

Also got a new task to master. I bought a brand new XYZ laser printer and since the com port don’t work, I plan on designing me the ultimate Laser printer with it. All suggestions are accepted.