Is the build chamber heated? I know I’ve had issues with that on the Moai, and wanted to check.
Heat is the enemy in the Phenom. infact they recommend pouring more resin in the vat and using the resin as cooling.
If you live in extreme cold climate, you may want to preheat the resin before using with hairdryer. or warm the bottle in hot water bath
Well as @johnchen beat me to the punch The ambient temperature of the room the printer is in, should be no lower than 20c / 68f and he offers some good recommendations for heating up the resin or chamber
Does Peopoly Heater for Moai fit to the Phenom?
Asking because the work space where I’m planning to install Phenom has only 12 degrees temperature on winter (It’s cold in northern Finland)
thanks. I’d like to know as well as the room i’m using is not temp controlled.
I would suggest building a enclosure around the whole phenom instead of heating just the chamber due to the uneven heating from the uv leds I’d imagine some inaccuracies would result.
That said I will check the size of my moai heater in the phenom when I get back to the office in a hour or so
I’m not quite coming now. They say that heat is the greatest enemy in the Phenom. But why should you preheat the resin when it is good that the resin does not get too warm.
Can you explain that to me better?
I only printed my first test part a week ago. Everything worked and looked great. And the room temperature in my basement is + 5 -7 degrees.
Today I heated the room to 20 degrees with an oven and the part did not go well! The part has come loose on the building board and just barely hung on the building board while the printer was moving up and down …
So how about that temperature.
Printing at 25 degrees?
Resin should be warm before printing?
I look forward to your opinion Thank you
if it was working fine before then just stick with it.
For most resin the optimal printing temp is around 25c, this is manufacturers stipulation. you dont have to follow it if what you are doing works.
Heating the resin makes it less viscous, which makes peeling easier, however on the Phenom they have ‘special’ FEP film to reduce peel already.
If your part is not stick to plate, try increase the base layer exposure time.
or your support settings might be wrong.
In addition to John’s helpful comments, I would like to add a few more comments:
It is important to know that the exposure (polymerization) of the resin is an exothermic chemical reaction.
In order to get a feeling for the amount of energy released, I carried out a temperature measurement, with the following result:
from 22.8 ° C to 60.5 ° C in 3 seconds under UV light (405nm).
Measurement setup: Thermolement in a small drop of SLA resin.
In the first layer, almost 90% of the heat goes into the building plate. If this is too cold, the polymerization of the first layer is inhibited, which can impair the adhesion. Therefore, the building board should initially have a temperature of 25°C to 30°C.
The resin heats itself up for the next layers. There is also a considerable amount of heat from the heat radiation from the LEDs.
Warm the printing space and the resin to 25-30°C (not more!) before printing
After the first layers, do not heat the printing space anymore (insider tip: cooling would be ideal! Side walls made of aluminum sheet = passive cooling)
Make sure that there are no large temperature fluctuations inside the printing space (even a few degrees can affect the print quality)
It is essential to avoid heat build-up under the display!
First of all a big thank you for both of you!
Johns and ad_fontec
I searched a long time to get some information for printing. You can also get some good tips and you can print more securely.
thank’s for the Tipps
I have a question for you. When I print and the plate moves up after each exposure you always hear such a “blup” noise. Maybe it always takes the Fep film with it and then “blucks” downwards. I think that’s the sound.
What can I do about it?
The plop sound occurs when the layer (resin) that is currently being printed separates from the FEP film.
The greater the adhesive force, the louder the tear-off sound and the more mechanically stressed the resin structure printed up to that point.
If the holding force of the support structure and its connection to the print object is less than the peeling force, detachment occurs.
The peeling forces also depend on the area just printed. The larger the area on the layer, the greater the peeling forces.
In addition, the speed at which the print object is lifted is important. The faster the FEP film is torn off, the greater the peeling forces.
A lower uv light power and a higher resin temperature can reduce the peeling forces somewhat, however the strength of the exposed resin decreases. A practical compromise can be found here.
The resin composition and the FEP film also plays an important role.
If you do not hear any peeling noises, then it may be that the print object has already detached from the building board and sticks to the film in the VAT.
And a lot more …
Then the noise is a good sign that the part is still sticking to the plate. But not so good either because the part warps.
How can I best solve the problem?
the pop sound is indeed print peeled away from film. What resin are you using and at what settings? With Deft resin at recommeneded settings with Phenom, there should be no sound. we cannot say the same for other resins. For example, Blu would make some sound. It also depends on orientation of the print, how it is hollowed and how the holes are set up. and lastly, it is a good practice to keep the vat at lease half filled so the resin act as coolant when screen heats up and too little resin may lead to louder peel force
what are the dimensions of the heater unit?
Length, width and height: 8.5×7×10.5 cm