Phenom Noir with Phrozen TR300 or Epax Hi-temp resin

#1

Hi all, I have been using my Phenom Noir successfully with Phrozen ABS like resin using the settings as stated by Peopoly. I really would like to use hi-temp resistant resin. I have been struggling for a month now but can not get buildplate adhesion. I tried the following things:

  • got a new buildplate in order to rule out the whambam sheet
  • added internal heating - that also made no difference
  • many different settings, what is advised by Phrozen, the defaults as Peopoly states, but also shorter and longer
  • different thickness fep sheet, 50 micron, 100 micron

I want to use hi-temp resin to print moulds which I want to use for laying up prepreg carbon fiber - maybe someone else does this too ?

I am getting a bit desperate, cleaned my fep sheet and vat more than often enough by now, I understood that this hi-temp resin should work with MSLA printers, but just cannot get it to stick (on the buildplate that is).

Does anyone else have experience with this combination ? If so I would really appreciate to learn how you got it to work.

Thanks a lot & best regards,

Leon

#2

You could sand the build plate.

#3

Hi, thanks, yes it did occur to me, but there is already some slight relief on the buildplate. Think I’ll try that soon too. I did try to sand the whambam sheet i had on the other buildplate, but there it didn’t make a difference. Otoh, that whambam thing is made from steel (?) and is much smoother by itself. Anyway, thanks, will give that a shot.

#4

I’m also considering an nfep sheet instead of the fep one. Reading some mixed reviews about it…

#5

I tried it, but since I am using FEP with W40 I did not notice a difference to the NFEP.

One question to you originally question, the printer is curing the resin; it is just not sticking to the build plate?

#6

yes exactly, i just get non-stop tr300 epoxy cured to the fep sheet.

I can also hear it while it’s printing, the first layers having longer times, the first time i hear a ‘loud’ snap, second time a little less loud, and less and less until i don’t hear it anymore. So I’m figuring all those times it gets stuck to the build plate and snaps loose, until the layer buildup on the fep sheet gets so thick that the light doesn’t permeate anymore and it’s just at the bottom of the pool.

#7

@Bridger so you have TR300 printing fine ? You say W40, I googled a bit and now see some mention of WD-40 - is that what you meant ? And then found PTFE lubricant ? I didn’t read before of ppl putting a release layer on the sheet. Can you tell me more ?

#8

No, sorry I just wanted to make sure that your only problems is the adhesion to the build plate.

#9

Alright, thanks anyway, I did order a bottle of PTFE lubricant, hoping that’ll resolve my problem. Will write here when I get some results.

#10

Failed some more prints, re-leveld plate, tried a little pfte oil on the fep sheet - still got stuck.

Then purchased some nfep sheet (phrozen) and again no buildplat adhesion.

This new nfep sheet I used some tips I saw online for pre-tensioning (using pieces of tape to attach the new sheet to the vat before actually screwing the alu thing in the bottom of the vat. It’s clearly a bit tighter, and sounds higher pitch.

Have to continue, but it’s starting to get tough.

#11

Have you tried sanding your build plate yet?

#12

Hi, yes actually I did, forgot to mention it here, but I think I used too high grit and it actually became a bit smoother. I will try with little coarser paper. I also ordered one bottle of Siraya Tech Sculpt Ultra white last night, also a high temp resistant resin just to see if it makes a difference.

Also doubting my buildplate leveling, but since the prints with the abslike resin work I wonder if that could be wrong then.

#13

Crank up the cure time for the bottom layers (by 10 sec) and increase the ambient temperature - some resins adhere better at higher temperatures.

Yes, use coarse sandpaper on the build plate (I did that with my Whambam sheet - just the one side).

#14

Hey thanks, I actually got a working print with the hi-temp Siraya tech sculpt ultra white resin.

Did following / used settings:

  • roughed up the build plat with 120 grit sanding paper
  • used the phrozen nfep sheet, using pre-tensioning
  • re-leveld the build plate
  • had heating in my phenom noir, was constant around 28 deg c
  • warmed up the resin (bottle in hot water, also around 30 deg c)
  • settings 60sec for first five layers, then 10 sec for the rest (and I believe 5 transition layers)

I have to say really nice material this sculpt ultra resin, the print worked out wonderfully, but one plane had some layer lines which i could sand away really easily with fine grit.

Thanks all for the tips - now that i have this working, i will try to reduce times and also with these settings try the tr300. And then try to use this as mold, lots of experimentation in front of me :slight_smile:

first-hitemp-print
first-hitemp-print.jpg1030×974 78.1 KB

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