I teach technology in high school and we purchased a Phenom L in May of 2021 . Our purpose was to be able to print larger objects than our Form3 and cut costs as the resin is less expensive. The first print using Deft resin was huge and came out very well. I have not printed anything since that has not failed but one part. I used $150.00 worth of Deft resin and got one print to complete. The next print did not even cure to the build plate using the exact same settings as the original successful print. Finally after many failed prints the Deft resin was almost gone so I disposed of the last small amount. I bought Siraya Tech Blu and reset my Chitubox settings for this resin. I also changed the FEP film as the many failed prints and cleanings had damaged the original film. I purchased a new build plate as a spare thinking that this may be the issue. The first print from the Siraya Tech Blu was semi-successful as it printed 95% but left one corner not complete. The next 7 prints with the same Siraya Tech resin have all failed. I have partial prints, incomplete prints, support structures with nothin on top, and am about to give up. Any ideas would be appreciated before we put this unit in the non-working electronics pile.
I have never used the Deft Resin but went with Siraya Tech Fast, I know that Blu is very tricky from my own experience.
Maybe you can show us your settings and one thing: what is the temperature in the room with the printer.
I may try the Siraya Tech fast. I used the standard Chitubox settings for the Siraya Tech Blu which was a choice in the software.
The room is in a classroom and all of our rooms are temperature controlled by a 3rd party company. It stays between 68-72 degrees and I have no control over it. I could use a space heater if this is too cold.
I think it is too cold, the Resin should have a temperature of 77-95 so give the room a good heating.
Also they way you supports are creating a raft something you want to avoid with this printer.
I make extremely large models with this machine and I don’t have failures. The first thing you need to know is this machine prints better at 22.5 degrees to 45 degrees. I am almost always at 22.5. Second always use heavy supports no larger than a diameter of 2 mm. Contact point =none
Contact diameter I use .70 and the same for contact n the box below. Depth always .5mm. The next thing is don’t use a raft for any reason. Connection from arm to model should be 3. Mm. As far as density of how much in percentage 35.00 you bottom layers no more than 5 ever. For direct I use 8.4 seconds for normal layers and 50.00 second for bottom. It’s more than enough. I have gone through 5 screens already because of how much I use it. I really have no failures. Also run a calibration model it does help dial in your exposure settings. I have a model for each resin and on the back is resin name and what settings were used. When it comes to supports I always use heavy on what I think will be the best anchor points. Then I go in with medium and they are small but I load them up where needed. Use skate for the bottom connection to the plate and 1.5mm thick. Does not need to be 12mm wide , I use 10mm. I’m not home or I would send you a picture of my settings.
Your base plate will almost never go bad. I would relevel just to be sure. After a couple prints I use a scotchbrite pad to do a deep cleaning on just the surface and it keeps adhesion perfect. Double check your lift speeds. The last two if I remember correctly on mine are 180 and 250. Very important if you hollow the model. Make sure you are putting holes in where you can. On my models I put them any where you can see them especially the bottom and sides and maybe a top one for really large model. Just keep the plug if you need to seal it up. When this machine came out many people had similar issues. I’ve been printing from them first day and have had nothing but success with this machine. I recently bought the Phrozen 8k and it’s not worth the money. Don’t get me wrong it does remarkably beautiful prints but the speed, mess, and constant tweaks make it a time killer. Once you get the L where you want it you should be printing anything. I have 42 printers resin and FDM. I have all the top brands and Phenom L by far is the best in my opinion. I am starting a YouTube channel for printing and my first video will be on the Phenom L after a year of use and what I have printed. Settings I use tips and tricks. It really is an awesome machine. I really want to get my hands on the XXL but I don’t have a budget for it yet. If you need more feel free to contact me and I’ll do what I can to help
The 3D Printing Gringo
Also turn your light delays to (0). Bottom expose way to high 50 max. Lift speed 150 retract 280. Never use what’s in chitubox software for resin. Most of the time it’s wrong by little margins but create a lot of problems. Just to give you an idea of how large I print with this machine here is a picture of a 5’ Godzilla. It’s huge and printed perfectly
David that is beautiful work, and I am sure your video will be very very helpful.
Thanks for the help. I will try these tweaks and see if I can get more positive results.
Speaking of the Mighty 8k today this happened and it’s the third time. I have had the nfep leak for no apparent reason and cure a ton of resin on the lcd. Following their instructions you take a paper towel soak it in 95% alcohol let it soak for 30 minutes then wipe and repeat as necessary. Well I did this four times and on the final wipe the lcd screen literally melted the protective surface. It came of like shredded plastic. So now I have no screen and am severely pissed. Here are some picturesUploading: B6436D29-A721-4E76-B675-687C485010DE.jpeg…
That sucks, I have read about that and I think they have no protective film over the LCD like the Phenom printers have. I was lucky to never have a leak but from time to time a drop of resin landed on screen but was easy to remove.
Wow David you seems to be a real master with all this printer and knowledge, big respect
I should have read your message about 8K before because I bought one and I receive it tomorrow
Please tell me there is a way to work with the 8k
someone who already has the printer shared his specifications with me, I share them with you too, what do you think?
Always have a screen protector installed. I learned this lesson the hard way; I hope you never have to.
Sorry for the delay. First of all a screen protector is a must with any of these machines. The problem with the 8k is you can’t level the plate and could cause issues.
As far as your settings I increased my lifting speeds to max. And turned off any light delay. They are way to high to begin with. Your prints will take forever to print and turn off the print delay all together on the bottom you dont need it This has increased the speed tremendously. What I have found is that because of the holes in the plate the supports sometimes form inside and the either loosen and dislodge or fallaprt during printing. I never use rafts but on this machine it’s a must. The prints come if the plate very very clean and the resin almost never sticks inside. Let me know how it turns out and I will help you adjust your settings