Phenom L Absolute Nightmare

Our shop got a Phenom L about 5 months ago and it has been nothing but an absolute nightmare:

Our prints weren’t sticking at all once the setup was complete following the guide.
We kept trying and we started noticing resin getting in-between the FEP and LCD.
We cleaned it and ended up having to replace the FEP.
We got some prints top stick, but not one single print fully worked. We were getting a lot of warping etc.
Then we learned our build plate was not flat at all from a machine shop and ordered $180 build plate.
That came in and we cleaned, calibrated, leveled the whole nine yards.
We are still getting resin in-between the FEP and LCD, even though I let it sit with resin out of the machine and nothing came through the bottom.
Prints themselves will stick to the plate, but supports wont.
I followed 3D printing Pro’s support settings and I know those are amazing.

I am honestly at my wits end with this printer. I have spent ENOURMOUS amounts of time to try and get this brand new machine to work properly and nothing.

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Sorry to hear your printing issues. The most efficient way to provide you the best answer is to get as much information from you as possible.
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I’ve heard others using PTFE lubricant on their FEP sheets (before filling with resin). I’ve heard good things about this 3-in-1 brand PTFE luricant.. Just put a little bit on a paper towel and rub it onto the FEP sheet and let it dry before putting the resin in.

Also, what do you mean that the supports aren’t sticking? Do you mean the bottoms of the support (the flat part) aren’t staying stuck to the build plate, or do you mean that the model is breaking off from the supports? In the first case I would try re-leveling the build plate, making sure to push down on each corner firmly as you tighten the closest screw. Then try increasing the initial layer exposure time.

Hope this helps!


I also went through the same deal. print not sticking on the bed plate but stick on the FEP film
I have changed the Film 3 time.
I have change the LCD.
Try different resin like the derf and Siraya tech
I did have some good print with these resin. but now I have spent 30h of figuring why it is not sticking on the plate!.
Could this be the UV light randomly shut off during print?
I have noticed that the calibration test does blink few time then it stay’s solid on.
here in attached some great print than a typical failure.
what am I doing wrong?!

thank you for any help

some great small prints did well

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OK I have figured out the random failure on my Poly L printer
I installed a small heater controlled temp to 30c constant and I have a bunch of successful prints.
my lab was in the 20c and that is too cold, I started notice at 25c and above it worked fine.
I have been using the deft and Siraya tech and sometime a mix of the two and got printed ok.
I even put a little dye on the clear V2 ST resin and got amazing results.

Same thing for me EBscience
my basement was at 20c and all i got was miss print
cranked the heat to 25c and perfect print everytime
can you pm me your solution to put a mini heater in the print
might save a bit on the electrical bill to just heat the inside of the printer

Hi Guillaume

I have purchased a heater and a controller from amazon. I did not install the new heater yet but I used the controller on my homebuilt heater fan.

as shown on the picture i have posted.

There is also a small heater unit at peopoly site. but I think it is too small

My home built heater needs 85C on the fan heatsink to get 30C in the chamber.

see details in attachment



I was having the same problem of parts not sticking to the platform. I finally cut down the platform to fit inside the Duct tape that is used to seal the LCD. Voila! Now the parts stick great! The tape thickness, especially on the corners where it is doubled up, was not letting the platform get close enough to the LCD screen. When we first got the machine I was surprised that it was designed that way.

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Hi, a bit late to the party, but i can not stress enough the importance to get the temperature right.
I’ve been running this machine (Phenom L) in production environment from around october 2020.
Because i had been reading about the temperature sensitivity of siraya blu, i had been planning an enclosed environment for the printer.

Bought a oversized IKEA closet with glass windows, cut ventilation holes and installed insulated conducts from the Phenom L cooling fans to the outside walls of the closet.
The Phenom L is placed asymmetrically to the left with some extra room to the right , allow the install of a EU power plug.

In that power plug then goes one of those programmable socket mini heaters you can easily find online. I suppose it is possible to find those type of plugin heaters for other types of power sockets too…

The only time i had failed prints with the Peopoly-recommended resins is when i failed to warm up the enclosure before starting to print. What also helps a lot is to warm up your resins in an external oven (I have a paint-curing oven in my shop) to around 30°C and then poor them in the vat.

For the Peopoly recommended resins TEMPERATURE makes or breaks a good result…That is my experience after nearly 5 months of production.

As it is a bit calmer atm, i’ve started experimenting with different resin brands, and oh boy…this turns out to be an uphill battle to get anything sticking on the buildplate and not to the FEP.

But i’m not yet done with the experimenting… still got a few tricks in my sleeve i want to try before giving up.

The lesson learned so far, is that when experimenting with other resins, you really need to check the LCD screentype used on those 'successful" print samples. It turns out a lot of specialty resins are tailored for monoscreen LCD’s (more UV power). Some of these resinbrands ‘forget’ to mention that…

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