[Phenom L] 100% failure rate help

I need help determining the cause of my failed prints.

Here’s a list of facts that might help with debugging:

  • I am using Elegoo’s ABS-like resin
  • This happens with both the transparent red and gray
  • Have zero’ed the build plate multiple times using the standard thickness of a sheet of paper
  • Tried placing the zero 0.2mm higher in case the plate was pushing too hard on the screen
  • Tried placing the zero 0.2 lower in case the plate was too far from the screen
  • Leveled the build plate, and even replaced the FEP sheet to no avail
  • I use a PTFE lubricant on the FEP to reduce the force needed to pull layers off the FEP
  • I have full confidence in my support settings because I use the same setting on a different SLA printer
  • I have used a wide range of print settings (starting with known settings for this resin that work on another printer)
  • Sometimes prints less than 2in in height print perfectly but I still have the strange layer of cured resin spanning the whole screen
  • Taller prints are guaranteed to fail because the layer of cured resin gets cured in to the part and the extra suction force rips the part off of the supports

Any thoughts or suggestions would be really appreciated. I have tried to calibrate this machine for over two months and nothing I do seems to work.

My assumption is that there might be some kind of defect in the screen with light bleeding.

And to be clear, this was happening with the default zero and bed level right out of the box before I tried to calibrate the machine.

The Elegoo Resin is your problem, it does not work with this printer, get the Siraya Tech Fast one and your problems will be solved.

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Sorry to hear about your printing problem. The most effective way to provide you with the best answer is to get as much information as possible from you.
The information we need from you:

order number
Where you are
Machine serial number (at the switch position in the lower right corner of the device)
Question survey information This is a support survey and covers factors that affect all key factors. Some may be answered, while others seem to be irrelevant to the question at hand. Please answer as completely as possible:

You can download it as a Word file and put the answer in

Can you elaborate.

  • Why is the Elegoo Resin a problem?
  • What makes the Siraya Tech Fast better?
  • I have used the Siraya Tech Fast and Elegoo Resin both on a different printer without issue so why would one work and not the other?

For one I did the same thing you did when I got my Phenom L and not a single print worked then I switched to Siraya Tech Fast and everything worked.

Why one works and not the other is beyond me. I can only tell you how my experience was and what solved my problem.

Also when I did my research on the problem I could not find a single person that used the Elegoo Resin on that printer.


So when you used the Elegoo’s ABS-like resin in the Phenom L, did you get the same print errors I have or a different error?

It looked pretty much like yours.

I have mine Phenom-L fail because my room temp was too low at 15-18 C and my support too weak.
putting a heater and keeping the chamber at 35c made my printer work at 99% good prints.

I use lots of different resins like Syria, MH, sainSmart all worked well with exposure from 12-14sec

I calibrated my plate once by lowering the plate with loosed screws to the vat and make sure the vat still slide under the build plate, then tight the build plate csrews, done.

The picture shows my print in siansmart resin and my PL duck work for “smell-free baseman”.

good luck


Thanks for the input.

  • I do have a heater in the room because of lessons learned from my other printers.

  • I am also confident in my print and support settings as they work 100% of the time on my other printers.

  • As far as leveling goes, as mentioned before, I have leveled the bed at least 30 different times the past few months using different recommendations that people have posted on this forum and I get the same result using all of them.

I really think the issue is the result of light bleeding from the screen. I have Siraya Tech Fast being delivered today to test Bridger’s theory.

I’ll post back in a few days after some tests.

I have gotten the Siraya Tech Fast in and used the suggested Deft resin settings and I still get the same result.

Now that I can post more than one image, you can see that small prints come out perfectly with no defects but there is still cured resin in the vat.

So what can we learn from this:

  • The resin is not the problem
  • My support settings are fine
  • The bed is level
  • The cured resin is not breaking off from the printed parts (because the small parts come out perfect)

Anyone have any other thoughts?

I am sorry that it did not work for you here are my print settings maybe it helps.

Thanks for the settings.

Your bottom light-off delay is different than mine, I’ll try your settings and see how things go.

No dice.

As expected, the print settings are not the problem because smaller prints are still printing perfectly.
And I will reiterate that this has to be a screen issue.

As seen in the images below, the prints come out perfectly but there is a massive blob of cured resin in the center of the vat where there is nothing being printed. My two prints are at opposite corners of the vat. Clearly, all of that cured resin isn’t coming from my two parts so the issue must be the screen not masking things properly.


Can I please get some support on how to address this issue?

Here are some of the other bits of information that your survey asks for:

  • The printing room is always kept at 25.5 C (78 F)
  • I am in the U.S.
  • Firmware version is the latest F2.11

Below are pictures I took of my screen with the calibrate option on.

At this point, I have provided all of the information in the survey regarding the hardware and printing.
I have been trying to fix this issue since I got it in February, that’s 5 months!

hi Kyosake,
if this happens when printing, please check one by one

  1. Check whether it is caused by external ultraviolet light or the light leakage of the shading tape around the screen
  2. Whether the resin has residue or the resin has expired. Replace with a new resin and make sure that the resin is sufficient when printing. It is better to keep it at least about 1/2 of the capacity of the resin tank.
  3. Exposure calibration check screen or dry printing (No resin), observe whether the screen leaks light. If resin residue occurs, the probability of light leakage from the screen is the greatest, and the screen needs to be replaced.
  4. Check the light source of the light board, you can detect the input voltage of the light board, and the voltage is 37-52V. If the voltage is too high, causing the output energy of the light board to be too large, this situation will also occur. Need to adjust the voltage. Keep it within a safe range.
    If you need further help, please contact us by email so that the peopoly technical team can help you in time.

Thanks for replying.

  1. The door is always kept closed and there is no direct sunlight (or UV) hitting the printer’s window. Does the window not filter out UV light and be the source of “external UV light”?
  2. When you say “shading tape”, do you mean the electrical tape around the screen? That does not seem to be the case from the images I posted and the evidence that the extra cured resin is always in the center of the vat, never the edges.
  3. I have bought and tested multiple bottles of resin and are all new without passing the expiration date.
  4. The vat is always kept at half or more capacity when doing a print and I ALWAYS have to go through the cleaning process to remove the cured resin.
  5. I have posted the calibration screen and it looks more or less like the example images from the “troubleshoot survey”, are you able to come to a conclusion from the images?
  6. I am not “dry printing”, as mentioned previously and shown in the images posted, there is more than enough resin left over in the vat after printing
  7. There is no cured resin on the screen.
  8. Is the screen replacement under warranty since this is how its been printing since day one?
  9. How do I check the voltage and if its off, how do I adjust it? Do I have to dig through the documentation?

The concept of “Dry Printing” was not explained properly but after reading this post, I more or less get it.

Here are the things I plan to do:

  1. Attempt “Dry Printing” and use my phone to observe the UV screen (no way am I staring at UV light)
  2. Attempt to measure the voltage “light board”

I found this document:

  • Output 4 is labeled “Exposure control cable” but does not list a voltage range
  • Output 5 has a different voltage range than what you specified, has no label, and the document does not show where it connects to or where I can measure it or adjust it if it is off.

I observed the LCD screen during the first three layers of “Dry Printing” by removing the vat and build plate. The LCD screen had nice clean edges and did not flicker in any way.

I also measured the voltage of “Output 5” and it reported a voltage between 47V and 48V. By the way, there were no easy test points for this. I had to carefully probe the connector pins under the board while the “Dry Printing” process turned on the UV lights. This was not a safe measurement to take.

I fix it !!!

here is how:

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