Phenom Initial thoughts

Also noted that there was no damage to my unit in shipping. I thought the packing was terrific. The build plate had a minor bur from an impact or something but it must have been before getting packed as nothing else was damaged and that piece came inside a giant piece of foam. Also I just filed the little bur doe so it wouldn’t damage the screen on zeroing our. No biggie.

First batch started with no scuffing or scotchbrite or anything to the build plate amd didn’t re-level the build plate either. Just see what we get right out of the box. !

Kid for scale…

First print failed on the back half of the plate. Releveled and tried again, will see how that one goes.

Sorry to hear about the back half, how are the prints that you did get?

  • Which print profile are you using? I found that the 125 fast setting has been working for me.


I’m wondering what the calibration box is myself, but as I said I just looked at it and pressed on.

Being that I have a couple days left I made some adjustments to my dropship and cranked the anti-aliasing up to 8. One thing to note is that this increases the file size a great deal. I have another 3hrs left until it’s done so I’ll post pictures after it comes out.

Got a kick out of that picture! My son is exactly the same waiting for stuff to come out haha.

On the phenom, how to you check the LCD cable and replace the LCD? My phenom arrived in what appeared to be good condition, but when looking at the LCD the pattern is not correct. There are not visible cracks in the LCD so hopefully it is just a cable.

How is the pattern incorrect? Can you attach a picture?

I’ll be interested in how the anti aliasing changes the printed part. The parts I’m needing to print are large gentle curves so the more help the aliasing does the better. Its always better to have less prep work before painting.

Also just got the email that mine shipped out so I’m very excited to get it.

So far it’s looking really well, I’ll have some pictures to post in about an hour or so.

Overall I am extremely happy with the printer so far I truly feel like I’m getting the precision and accuracy that I want and can get from the Moai but with a little bit less fuss in terms of calibrating and setup.

The printer is pretty loud I have my Moai and the Phenom in their own enclosure with a space heater and it is still audible, however I’d rather have the printer be loud and work than have the other way around.

Another thing to note is the cleanup of parts… 3d Printing Nerd talks about and demonstrates this in his review, but seeing it and working with it are two totally different things. If you are utilizing the Z axis you will need some big setups for cleaning parts.


What’s the temperature like in your garage? One thing that uncle jessy notes in his review is that he was having some failed prints and had to get the printer/resin up temperature wise to keep from getting failures.

I know it seems a little counter intuitive with the amount of fans on the unit to keep the LCD screen cooler to help it’s life-span. Like I said I keep mine in it’s own enclosure with a space heater which seems to be working for me.

I have been trying to plan ahead for cleaning parts, I have a few uv flood lights and turntable ready and i was thinking about getting a automotive parts cleaner to fill with ipa. Harborfreight has them for 100 bucks

I used the test exposure setting to put a rectangle pattern on the


Hard to see in picture but the center of the rectangle has black lines that flicker and move around. The image on the control LCD does not appear on the VAT LCD.

Oh that looks like it would be perfect for a cleaner!

I purchased a cheap water pick to push iso through any holes I need to really clean out which seems to be working well.

Another thing I do is lay down some wax paper where I do all my prep work it helps keep my workbench clean and I don’t have to worry about the resin soaking through.

I also purchased heavy rubber gloves since I end up destroying the nitrite (blue) ones half way through cleaning and get resin over my hands. Parts can be a little hard to grip but I don’t have to worry about them tearing, then I just rinse them in iso and wipe them down and I’m ready to go for next time.

I see what you mean, that sucks, as far as I can tell, and hopefully someone from Peopoly will jump in and help, is that the LCD screen is just held down with the black tape. You could try peeling one strip of it and see what it looks like, maybe you’ll be able to access the cable from there. I really hope it’s just a connection issue. I have not pulled my LCD yet so I don’t want to give you bad advice, but it looks like that is what you would have to do to replace the screen anyway.

Hopefully someone who knows a little more jumps in.


What are you planning on printing?

I am making these, fender scoops for a 1970 Plymouth Superbird. Have some other parts for those cars that are tough to get that I’ll be making and selling also.

The wax paper is a good idea. I planned to use a melamine table top for the printer and cleaning station since it cleans pretty easy


I ordered a spare lcd just incase I broke mine or it wears out fast. Hopefully you have one also, But I believe you can remove the tape and the lcd lifts out, I don’t have my printer to know for sure yet though.

Those look awesome!

Are you using them to make fiberglass layups or making molds of them? While they do have some flex and are much tougher than other parts I’ve printed I’m not sure how well they would hold up on a car. I haven’t had the best results in drilling my parts either, though some of that was in my design.

An epoxy coat over them might be all you need though to get the strength you need out of them.

The amount of sanding I had to do on my dropship wasn’t too bad and I had some tight spaces to get into, even if you’re still having some stepping polishing those up really shouldn’t be too much of a chore.

The original ones are made of injection molded fiberglass type product, surprisingly fragile. I will be testing a few different resin mixes to find one that flexes just enough to match original. The plan is to have the posts with holes ready to tap and have posts mounted in the legs before selling, that way customers will only have to paint and mount. The old style enamel paint and clear that was used adds quite a bit of rigidity due to thickness. These are a non stressed part and are only visual flare on the road legal version of the car.

So basically My goal is to sell these almost right off the printer. I have my Moai printing tap test jigs now to test strength in different resins with a 1/4-20 rod inserted

looks like it was just a bad LCD. I removed the tape and pulled the LCD out. Replaced it with my spare and pattern looks normal.

I think they would be durable enough for that, vibrations could be an issue with your mounts. Maybe drill and tap an abs or plastic insert that goes into the mounting hole and jbweld/epoxy that into the mounts for the scoop. That way the material that is actually drilled and tapped is strong enough to hold the mounting bolts it might make it deal with vibrations and stress on the threads better. Also having them out of the part and drilling and tapping first then inserting them might make the process go faster? Sorry I’ll shut up now haha

That’s awesome!

Well sucks that the original screen was bad but at least you got it going and should be printing relatively soon.

I would prefer to have free reign and make good properly engineered ones to hold up over time. But the people who would want these want factory original look and feel, so I even had to model the stamped part numbers on the inside so it prints and has the right look after being painted. Doing this unfortunately causes major limitations on my production methods. If nothing else silicone mold is my fall back.

So was it worth the anti-ailiasing?