I agree, the parts sand well. I had some issues with parts that I had shelled in Autodesk inventor and scaled down to print… the walls were two thin and it caused distortions. So I’ll need to go in and adjust those parts and reprint.
I also snapped one of the tail fins. The scoops in front of the intakes had a weird pulled/stretched out effect going on but I don’t believe they had supports on them, so that’s on me.
the wood grain effect is typical of LCD printers, you can medigate it by different orientation, printer at a lower res for now
Anti Aliasing is available on the CBD motherboard, but I think it has yet to be implemented in the firmware.
Anit Aliasing is supported by the phenom and is in the advanced settings in Chitubox
Awesome, so I want to enable anti-aliasing for smother prints? I’m pretty happy with the results as it is but if they get better I certainly wouldn’t complain. How does anti-aliasing effect the output exactly?
Anti-aliasing basically makes the edges of the layer images slightly blurry, which helps to hide the edge transition from one layer to the next. It reduces the appearance of stepping lines on the print. The drawback is that it can compromise the sharpness of the print, but overall, anti-aliasing improves the printed model’s appearance. Obviously, anti-aliasing is only available on image-based printers like the Phenom, and not on the laser-based Moai.
Awesome, thanks for sharing, thinking of buying one later this year or next year, would be great to see how a print looks with antialiasing on.
I’ll probably have to wait to try until after I get back from this deployment, but with some sanding it’s turning out really well.
One thing i would probably do is switch to the deft grey as it can be difficult to see what needs to get sanded in the first place.
Would these be the settings I should use foe the anti aliasing?
I thought I’d post my impressions too. I just got my Phenom yesterday and running my first batch tonight. Dental models and some calibration cubes. Coming from a Wanhao D7 with box. Have to say my first thought is the Chitubox and settings are WAAAAAYYYY easier than CreationWorkshopX which I was using before to stage and slice… Actually had been using a program called Zenith to stage and then export it as a whole STL and then slice it in CWX…
Anyway will report back with how my first batch goes. Using the Deft resin. Could use some info from Peopoly on how to calibrate for other resins? There’s a calibration option in the menu, but not sure how it works? There’s just a bit rectangular frame that shows up on the LCD and you set it for the number of seconds?
Also noted that there was no damage to my unit in shipping. I thought the packing was terrific. The build plate had a minor bur from an impact or something but it must have been before getting packed as nothing else was damaged and that piece came inside a giant piece of foam. Also I just filed the little bur doe so it wouldn’t damage the screen on zeroing our. No biggie.
First batch started with no scuffing or scotchbrite or anything to the build plate amd didn’t re-level the build plate either. Just see what we get right out of the box. !
Kid for scale…
First print failed on the back half of the plate. Releveled and tried again, will see how that one goes.
Sorry to hear about the back half, how are the prints that you did get?
- Which print profile are you using? I found that the 125 fast setting has been working for me.
I’m wondering what the calibration box is myself, but as I said I just looked at it and pressed on.
Being that I have a couple days left I made some adjustments to my dropship and cranked the anti-aliasing up to 8. One thing to note is that this increases the file size a great deal. I have another 3hrs left until it’s done so I’ll post pictures after it comes out.
Got a kick out of that picture! My son is exactly the same waiting for stuff to come out haha.
On the phenom, how to you check the LCD cable and replace the LCD? My phenom arrived in what appeared to be good condition, but when looking at the LCD the pattern is not correct. There are not visible cracks in the LCD so hopefully it is just a cable.
How is the pattern incorrect? Can you attach a picture?
I’ll be interested in how the anti aliasing changes the printed part. The parts I’m needing to print are large gentle curves so the more help the aliasing does the better. Its always better to have less prep work before painting.
Also just got the email that mine shipped out so I’m very excited to get it.
So far it’s looking really well, I’ll have some pictures to post in about an hour or so.
Overall I am extremely happy with the printer so far I truly feel like I’m getting the precision and accuracy that I want and can get from the Moai but with a little bit less fuss in terms of calibrating and setup.
The printer is pretty loud I have my Moai and the Phenom in their own enclosure with a space heater and it is still audible, however I’d rather have the printer be loud and work than have the other way around.
Another thing to note is the cleanup of parts… 3d Printing Nerd talks about and demonstrates this in his review, but seeing it and working with it are two totally different things. If you are utilizing the Z axis you will need some big setups for cleaning parts.
What’s the temperature like in your garage? One thing that uncle jessy notes in his review is that he was having some failed prints and had to get the printer/resin up temperature wise to keep from getting failures.
I know it seems a little counter intuitive with the amount of fans on the unit to keep the LCD screen cooler to help it’s life-span. Like I said I keep mine in it’s own enclosure with a space heater which seems to be working for me.
I have been trying to plan ahead for cleaning parts, I have a few uv flood lights and turntable ready and i was thinking about getting a automotive parts cleaner to fill with ipa. Harborfreight has them for 100 bucks https://www.harborfreight.com/20-gallon-parts-washer-with-pump-60769.html