Phenom Initial thoughts

ChiTuBox I have to say feels superior to Asura.

Adding and adjusting models in both is pretty straight forward, where I feel that ChiTuBox has the edge is in it’s support functions. With Asura I at times have supports that fail to connect to the model while printing, where as ChiTuBox seems to really add those supports in. I have noticed this when using ChiTu on my Moai 130 as well.

Asura has come a long way from when it was first implemented and I feel that Peopoly understands the issues and is working hard to fix issues with it. As it is though with an excellent 3rd party slicer like ChiTu it’s seems like they might consider scrubbing Asura and focusing on making plugins for ChiTuBox.

Aliens! the OG of dropships!
I appreciate the link to the start guide, looks like I was mostly right in getting started. I’m sure you guys have been a little busy with the new release.

These are some of the digital wood grain effects I was seeing, again I get lines on my models with my Moai depending on how the model is oriented with the print and that may be what some of these are. One thing I did not do was to add the sheet of paper when setting the build plate level, this might be causing just a little too much pressure between the bed and FEP.

Like I said I expect sanding regardless of which printer I am using, I feel that the Moai and Phenom both allow me to skip huge steps in the clean up process and save a great deal of time. There might be a little more work with the Phenom but not much, and again I have yet to play around with my models and how they are oriented to the build plate.

Here’s a better view of the dent it arrived with.

Though I already painted the model on the right it came from the Moai and took about 30+ hours with all the parts, again 5.5 hours in one go and room for a second with the Phenom version.

Always nice when parts are interchangeable.

Those prints look exactly as expected for me. The moire is from the pixels on the lcd panel I believe, but would love to hear if I’m wrong.

They look great!

I agree, the parts sand well. I had some issues with parts that I had shelled in Autodesk inventor and scaled down to print… the walls were two thin and it caused distortions. So I’ll need to go in and adjust those parts and reprint.

I also snapped one of the tail fins. The scoops in front of the intakes had a weird pulled/stretched out effect going on but I don’t believe they had supports on them, so that’s on me.

the wood grain effect is typical of LCD printers, you can medigate it by different orientation, printer at a lower res for now

Anti Aliasing is available on the CBD motherboard, but I think it has yet to be implemented in the firmware.

Anit Aliasing is supported by the phenom and is in the advanced settings in Chitubox

image

Awesome, so I want to enable anti-aliasing for smother prints? I’m pretty happy with the results as it is but if they get better I certainly wouldn’t complain. How does anti-aliasing effect the output exactly?

Anti-aliasing basically makes the edges of the layer images slightly blurry, which helps to hide the edge transition from one layer to the next. It reduces the appearance of stepping lines on the print. The drawback is that it can compromise the sharpness of the print, but overall, anti-aliasing improves the printed model’s appearance. Obviously, anti-aliasing is only available on image-based printers like the Phenom, and not on the laser-based Moai.

Awesome, thanks for sharing, thinking of buying one later this year or next year, would be great to see how a print looks with antialiasing on.

I’ll probably have to wait to try until after I get back from this deployment, but with some sanding it’s turning out really well.

One thing i would probably do is switch to the deft grey as it can be difficult to see what needs to get sanded in the first place.

Would these be the settings I should use foe the anti aliasing?

I thought I’d post my impressions too. I just got my Phenom yesterday and running my first batch tonight. Dental models and some calibration cubes. Coming from a Wanhao D7 with box. Have to say my first thought is the Chitubox and settings are WAAAAAYYYY easier than CreationWorkshopX which I was using before to stage and slice… Actually had been using a program called Zenith to stage and then export it as a whole STL and then slice it in CWX…

Anyway will report back with how my first batch goes. Using the Deft resin. Could use some info from Peopoly on how to calibrate for other resins? There’s a calibration option in the menu, but not sure how it works? There’s just a bit rectangular frame that shows up on the LCD and you set it for the number of seconds?

Also noted that there was no damage to my unit in shipping. I thought the packing was terrific. The build plate had a minor bur from an impact or something but it must have been before getting packed as nothing else was damaged and that piece came inside a giant piece of foam. Also I just filed the little bur doe so it wouldn’t damage the screen on zeroing our. No biggie.

First batch started with no scuffing or scotchbrite or anything to the build plate amd didn’t re-level the build plate either. Just see what we get right out of the box. !

Kid for scale…
image|576x768

First print failed on the back half of the plate. Releveled and tried again, will see how that one goes.

Sorry to hear about the back half, how are the prints that you did get?

  • Which print profile are you using? I found that the 125 fast setting has been working for me.

125%20fast

I’m wondering what the calibration box is myself, but as I said I just looked at it and pressed on.

Being that I have a couple days left I made some adjustments to my dropship and cranked the anti-aliasing up to 8. One thing to note is that this increases the file size a great deal. I have another 3hrs left until it’s done so I’ll post pictures after it comes out.

Got a kick out of that picture! My son is exactly the same waiting for stuff to come out haha.

On the phenom, how to you check the LCD cable and replace the LCD? My phenom arrived in what appeared to be good condition, but when looking at the LCD the pattern is not correct. There are not visible cracks in the LCD so hopefully it is just a cable.