Peopoly Tough Resin printing



I’m using a moai 130 with a FEP vat on clear peopoly tough resin. My first attempt with it was sliced in Asura3d using the Peopoly Moai 100um 35.afg profile.
I’m using the peopoly heater. The thermometer I added to my moai says it’s 86f/30c inside the printer.

I’m getting missing pieces of the model (see images below). I guess I could increase the laser power further, but I thought it might be better to try and modify the profile in order to decrease laser travel speed instead of bumping up power. What should I do?

Firmware: 1.18
Printer settings were taken from the Tough resin guide:
Z Moto Speed: 2
PM Moto Speed: 12
Laser Power: 53
XY Speed Set: 4
Z Reset Position: 1816
PM Reset Position: 40
Z Follows: 10
CompensateX: 100
CompensateY: 195
Z Initial Speed: 2
PM Initial Speed: 10
Here’s the model I’m printing:

Here’s my results:



corrupted Gcode. format your SD card with the sd format tool on the peopoly wiki and reslice and reload to your SD card. when you are slicing leave the pc alone, let it finish the slice before you do any other work, you may inadvertently cause gcode corruption when you do other work while its slicing. also you may want to make your supports have the cone bottom. just having the support stems themselves may pop off the plate



your supports are too weak and as shown in the picture, it just been knocked off by the peel
there are a few things i recommend you to try:

  1. tilt the model
    printing strait on even with supports underneath does not make higher success rate, the strongest supports are the ones which have the cross linking
  2. increase the size of the tip or increase the density
  3. add manually supports to where the supports are weak, based on the failed print
    this is the best way to have cross linked supports


Thanks for the assistance. I’ll try making those changes.

Are you guys still making tough resin? Both the US reseller (matterhackers) and peopoly,net show it to be out of stock… The tough resin seems to address all of the concerns I had with regular resin. But if I can’t get it, then I’ve got to find another solution.



in the mean time you can try out our new Siraya Blu resin, it’s much stronger and there are a lot of videos shows how strong it is.
It’s LCD resin so keep the laser power at 42-43



Increasing supports took care of the problem. Due to the size of the part, I cannot rotate it very much and stay within the build area.

The original print contained four pieces in one print. Three of the parts were successful. I added supports and re-printed the one that failed.

I ordered some Siraya Blu from Amazon. It’s inexpensive and has same-day delivery. Perhaps I’ll try blu before I try the PLA based resin that I was planning to test this weekend.

Here’s the successful print:

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I printed diy-test with siraya last night. I forgot to change the settings from those I was using for peopoly tough (laser 57) but the print came out perfect anyway. It was slightly harder to dislodge the posts from the print bed.

I’ll tinker with the settings some today and then try a real print. Thanks again for the suggestion. Siraya blue seems to be a good choice.

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