Peopoly resins difference


Hi, I am new to moai and I am trying to understand what the difference between the resi s are. As I found so far ist that standard resin can printed with 25 - 100 microns hand stand up to 79 degree
Hi temp can stand up 170 degree and is printable 60-100 microns.
Maybe someone can explain little more or link me what the main difference between the resins are and what for what use.
I searched the forum but didn’t found it


And here one of my prints
Printer standard peopoly resin 40 micron asura profile
Standard firmware setting, laser 57


Some troubles with failed prints

I don’t know of a document that compares them directly. However, in addition to the “standard” resin that you have and the Hi-temp you mentioned there are also tough resin.

I’ve used the regular and the tough. The tough being much stronger. Closer to the qualities of abs plastic but it’s a little different. I’ve discovered for most of the things I like to make (functional rather than models) the tough resin is a much better choice.

Tough and standard are acrylic based. I don’t know about hi-temp as I’ve never used it.


There are many other resins made by other companies. If the resins cure with UV light, you can probably get them to work in your moai. You may find settings for the moai or you may have to figure out what works.

There is also a resin called “blue by siraya tech” that I believe is made by the folks at peopoly. I couldn’t say why there’s another name on the bottle. It’s a tough resin, it’s far cheaper than the peopoly branded resins and is supposed to work on dlp printers. I bought some of this, and will try it soon.

eSun makes some pla based resin (biodegradable).

Smells: Regular peopoly resin smells awful. Peopoly tough smells MUCH better but not great. eSun PLA is supposed to have a “better” smell. I haven’t tried yet or heard comment about the siraya blue’s odor.

Standard peopoly resin works well enough for models but it’s very fragile. I knocked a part off of my windowsill onto a wooden floor (fake wood with padding underneath) and it broke the part in half. I printed a similar part in peopoly tough, tossed it into the air where it landed on a tile floor and it’s still intact.

When I run out of regular peopoly resin I don’t plan to buy anymore. I’ll be using either peopoly tough or (hopefully) one of the other brands of resin. Tough is a good material, it doesn’t smell bad, but it’s very expensive in the US at $110/liter.

There are also wax based resins that people use for casting molds to make jewelry and other items out of metal (gold, silver, etc). I thought I saw something about peopoly making their own castable but I can’t find it on the website.

While it isn’t really a good comparison, here is a document that summarizes known moai printer settings for a variety of resins:



none of peopoly resins (and anyway very few in general) can do better than 40um.

nex/hightemp resin is formulated so it hides layering. In doing so it loses a little details, so it’s better for medium/big sized models from 60um layer height and up.

blue/red translucent resins are good all around resins, very easy to print and overall good quality.

standard gray is probably the most flexible, able to catch fine details from 40um and up.

black resin theoretically should grant you higher precision, so it’s suited for smaller prints @ 40um and lower (granted 20um is not really moai’s forte).

tough resin is… well tough :smiley:

I recommend using NEX resin for big prints and FunToDo Form1+ resin for everything else.

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I’ve had a few prints come out nice at 20um with Peopoly UV green. I didn’t know it was supposed to be a problem.

This thing was printed at 20um (and spray painted). I didn’t have to sand it, except to remove the spots where the supports were - all on the underside.

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it’s not a problem at all, just mostly a waste of print time. 20um might be useful when you have round shapes at the top of the model, thinner layers will result in a smoother transition.



you could go with 80% peopoly model + 20% siraya tech blu if you are in the states. It makes the print stronger. you would have to figure out exposure on your own tho.