Not sure what's happening with my prints [Re-opened]


#1

So I recently built my printer and I managed to print the test ring and one custom 3D model, but I’ve been running into the same issue repeatedly and can’t figure out what the cause is. When I print, the base layer seems to get stuck to the bottom of the vat, stopping further printing. I’m not sure if this is caused by the actual design or the hardware. I’m currently doing the moai test print to see if the issue lies in the hardware, but since I levelled at first, and had 2 successful prints already, I don’t think that’s quite the issue. I’ve already printed 4 bases without any support structures coming off, and after looking through the forums, I tried using individual bases for each support rather than one large base, still to no avail. I have mixed the resin, I have a heater, I have confirmed that there are no pieces of cured plastic floating around (and, in case it helps, I haven’t removed any; each time, the resin has just cured at the bottom of the vat in one solid chunk). I’m designing the model in blender, moving it to flashprint to generate treelike supports, and finally slicing it in Cura.

This is the model in Cura.
Screenshot%20(182)
As a note, I was wondering if it was a suction issue, since I didn’t put any holes in the model, but I figured that that would be OK because the print itself is hollow and has holes in it naturally.


#2

Those supports could be better I think, what are you using to create them? Try testing the defaults generated in Asura, you probably want something closer to that.

Also that model does appear to have any wall thickness? How thick is the pumpkin walls?


#3

They have thickness. Since I designed it in blender, I’m not sure exactly how much, but somewhere around 3-5 mm I would say. The test print succeeded, so I think it might be the supports. I did mention it above, but I used something called flashprint. I’ll try using Asura, and I’ll update if it works.


#4

Redid supports with asura and it still failed.


#5

resin type? laser power? could be needing a tad more laser power or perhaps your leveling isnt good enough. im betting laser power but i could be wrong


#6

Sorry to hear your issue, here is a survey we use to help us get as much info as we can from user so that we could provide best solution. Even if you might have provide some info already, please answer the question for the completeness.

support question:

Room temperature (best to be >25C):

What type of resin:

Build plate type: (Standard 1-piece / easy to level)

Vat: (Silicon vat / FEP vat)

What type Vat: (Peopoly Original vat, Recoated Peopoly vat, custom vat made by user)

Leveling measurement:

A, B, C, D (example 10.9mm)

Firmware version:

System Setting is default per Peopoly recommendation? (Yes/No)

Laser Power:

Z-reset position:

PM Motor Speed:

Z Follow Speed:

Software used to slice?

If using Asura,what version and profiles

If using Cura, what version and Profiles:

Infill %:


#7

Hi!

Your support structure was way to weak in the first picture from Cura. I recommend you use Asura for creating supports and exporting to g-code.

I also assume you need to make the support structure more dense in Asura. You can change the density in the support window in the software. Try to go from 5 to 4 and reprint. Remember that it is a big object and strong suction is created. However, you can print those size objects just fine with good support structure. Here is a picture of a big cactus i printed:


#8

Temperature: Outside is low, but I have a peopoly heater on inside the chamber

Resin: Peopoly Grey Resin

Build Plate Type: Standard

Vat & Vat type: Not sure but whatever comes with the self-assemble kit

Levelling Measurements: I didn’t have a caliper but estimated with a ruler I got A: ~10.3 mm; B: ~10.8mm; C: ~10.3 mm; and D: ~10.9 mm.

Firmware Version: 1.16

Default Recommendation: Yes

Laser Power: 58

Z-reset position: 1877

PM Motor Speed: 30

Z Follow Speed: 40

Slicing Software: Cura Windows 3.6.0, Default Extra-fine .06mm layer profile

Infill %: 70

Also, just to clarify, the print didn’t even have enough time for the supports to fail - the base was stuck to the bottom of the vat.


#9

your PM motor speed and z follow speed are way too high
set the pm motor speed and the z follow speed back to 10


#10

Thanks! I must’ve accidentally changed them while levelling. The print succeeded this time, it’s currently curing.


#11

So, I thought the issue was solved for good, but among the last 6 prints, 4 of them failed in the exact same manner. At least not all of them are failing now, but since 3 of those 4 failures happened concurrently, I figured I’d reopen the thread. Is there anything else that could be causing the issue? Again, they’re all failing in the exact same manner, with the base just stuck to the bottom of the vat. I think this is caused by the first layer failing to stick to the build plate. I haven’t changed the settings since my last post, except, as mentioned, setting the pm motor speed and z follow speed to 10. This is the structure I’m trying to print, supports generated in Asura, sliced in Cura.
Screenshot%20(184)


#12

Just curious, but is there a reason that you are not generating supports and slicing within Asura?


#13

not particularly. I’m just used to Cura already.


#14

Did you change your leveling? Some of your pegs were short.

Did you stir the resin and check for resin stuck to the PDMS between prints? Were the failed prints the first prints in the series or later ones? Did you turn off the Moai between prints?

There are a lot of reasons for intermittent failures. Base failures usually are an adhesion issue. The Moai over exposes the first layers to get better adhesion, but poor leveling or interfering material will still prevent sticking. Finally, Z-axis calibration slips as the print progresses, so a power cycle is needed to reset the zero.


#15

Yeah, I read through the forums and noticed most of those coming up frequently, so I did them. The failed prints happened mostly recently. I didn’t fix the leveling b/c I don’t want to do the whole flip the printer upside down and unscrew one of the panels thing again. Is it possible to fix it otherwise, or should I just bite the bullet one of these days fix it manually?


#16

I don’t invert the printer for the fine adjustment. I just insert the driver from underneath. However, I do cover the galvo with a protective box. Just remember to think in “mirror image” terms when choosing the bolts and the direction to turn them.

Unfortunately, you cannot avoid removing at least one side panel. I replaced the standard bolts with thumbscrews, which makes the process a little easier.


#17

sorry for some information i forgot to provide earlier.
your 4 corner prints must be approximately the same ( best to be ~10.8)
also, i don’t know why the full base was an option, but i would always recommend to use circle base
and move the model to the center, too