No 99% IPA alcohol

Hello,

So things have gone from just a minor irritant to THIS SUCKS in a hurry. I have been printing with my Moai for about a month now and couldn’t be happier with it and the results that I am/was getting.

Thanks to the corona virus every store in the US seems to be sold out of IPA. It seems many of my fellow Americans are in a panic and are hoarding things like IPA and hand sanitizer as well as a bunch of other stuff. :fearful: Anyway is there something else that I can use to clean my prints. I read that ethanol can be used but I don’t know where to get it here in the States.

Thanks in advance,
Dean

In the states I believe you have access to yellow magic 7. I’ve seen it recommended in several places including this forum (if i recall correctly).

Might be worth a shot

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I have used green mr clean also. Mainly I start in mr clean and a tooth brush and finish with IPA that way you use less ipa.

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90% ethanol is good enough, you should be able to buy it at the drug store since it’s use as a sterilizer

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In America right now there is nothing on the shelves similar to alcohol. I work in the grocery stores and people are buying everything.

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Everclear. I use it to clean my vats between resins. May be too strong for prints?

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Fortunately I bought a couple bottles of 91% (not 99%) IPA before everyone went disinfectant crazy. However I am mainly using Yellow Magic 7 in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner to clean my SLA prints. You can find it on Amazon. The shipping is a bit high, but it works well, does not have strong fumes and isn’t flammable like IPA. On the other hand, you could try denatured alcohol from the paint section of a hardware store. That’s the closest I can get to pure ethanol in California.

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Everclear? Are you talking about grain alcohol as in 100 proof from the liquor store. I was wondering about that myself.

Thanks everyone,

It looks like I’ll be back at it soon. I will try your suggestions.

I will check the pharmacy for 90% ethanol but if it is used to sterilize or sanitize in anyway my bet is they will be sold out. I drive to three or four places a day in my area for alcohol and have been finding nothing but empty shelves. The last time I bought some alcohol I had to settle for 70% IPA because that is all that was left.

Thanks again,
Dean

Yep, except it is 190 proof, according to wiki…
“190-proof variation of Everclear is 92.4% ethanol by weight”
so it works fine for cleaning. A little bit more expensive.

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This could work if the shortages go on for very long. It can’t be any more expensive than the gallon of ISP that I found on the internet. It was from a chemical supply company. The ISP was $29 US but there was also a $30 US hazardous material shipping fee and postage. Needless to say I passed.

Thanks,
Dean

This is what I’ve been using:

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I think I will give this a try, Thanks. I have 4 fur balls running around 2 dogs 2 cats I think this would be a good choice. Who knows when I’ll ever see any IPA.

Thanks rowiac.

:v:

I just read the reviews for Yellow Magic 7 on Amazon and while they are all mostly positive a couple of them mentioned the need for a additional IPA rinse. Some mentioned that the print was still tacky after the YM7 so they would rinse it with the IPA. Do you find that this is needed?

I use Everclear at 153 proof. My state prohibits sale of ethanol greater than 153 proof. The 153 proof works very well. It is more expensive than IPA.

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I can’t get Everclear in California, and it appears as though denatured alcohol has been banned as well by the all-knowing powers-that-be in this state. How am I going to thin shellac without denatured alcohol?

Anyway, with the Yellow Magic 7, I have done an IPA rinse after the YM7, but it’s not really necessary in my opinion. With the white Peopoly resin, using IPA to clean the part after post-UV it has a dull finish. With the YM7 there are some shiny areas left, which I’m guessing means there was some uncured resin on the surface when I put it in the curing vat. I think this can be solved by extra time in the YM7 or longer ultrasonic cleaning time. Currently I have my ultrasonic set for its max time which is 480 seconds. A manual cleaning with a small paint brush should accomplish the same thing.

I then do a water rinse and put it in my UV curing vat. My vat consists of an 8-quart stainless steel stock pot from Walmart ($7) and a wooden lid I made to hold the Peopoly UV curing lamp. I submerge the part in water in the pot and let it run for an hour or two. I still need to get a timer to control the curing time better.

This pot replaced my 3D printed curing chamber because I wanted to try submerged in water curing and the 3D printed chamber was too small.

After this process, the part may still be a little tacky, but that goes away after a day or so.

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I recently bought 6 liters of SmartFuel ethanol on Amazon for about $46 including shipping. It’s >90% ethanol, 4.8-9.0% IPA, and the rest is a bittering agent and proprietary ingredients. The MSDS is here:

I’ve only used it once so far, for a cursory cleaning of a failed print. Even with a quick, non-thorough cleaning, the surface came out noticeably better than IPA would have with the same cleaning (in my experience it would have left a whitish haze on the surface with the resin I normally use).

Not a very rigorous test, but I think I’m going to prefer this stuff to the 99% propanol I’d been using.

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Hi there I watched the video linked below, and bought the Mr Clean from Walmart here in Canada. I’m cleaning Peopoly standard gray in a sonic bath full of the stuff. I did 400 seconds, and while it does get rid of a lot of uncured resin, it does leave a sticky film that needs the final rinse with IPA. It is definitely making the IPA last longer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnGasVwkgMk

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Does the water help with the UV curing? I read that some place else but it didn’t explain why its better if it is.

I still have to build some more permanent post process tools. I was in so much of a hurry to get printing when I got the Moai that I just grabbed the nearest cardboard box. I cut it so I could close the lid with just the front of the light inside. I put some foil inside along with a solar turntable. I piece of duct tape holds the door/flaps closed lol.

Besides a UV curing box I want to build a box to cover the Moai that I can then connect some kind of ventilation to so I can vent the fumes outside. The fumes dont bother me much as they are not that strong but I’m sure we will all be better off not breathing them lol.

I like your idea with the stock pot. I’m pretty sure that I have a old one of those laying around waiting for a second life as a UV curing chamber.

Thanks,
Dean

This looks interesting and much cheaper than Everclear. Maybe I will pick some up. For the time being I couldn’t wait any more so I bought a bottle of Everclear. 375ml cost me $11 US. It will clean a few parts until the SMartFuel gets here.

Thanks,
Dean