it’s recommended for Nex to be at 51, the pigments in Nex resin settles heavily so you would have to put a stick in and stir it from the bottom up, and mix it very well, or not you will have a range of laser power from 45-54
do you mean select a specific support to be over-cured instead of overcuring all of them?
I mean, I would like to import custom supports from external program and mark these as supports for over curing. This should be fairly easy as the main print should always be a single mesh, then rest rest of the meshes are supports.
that’s really not as easy as it sounds =))
i will pass this on to the team and let see what they can do
i can’t promise you to have this feature yet
Next print was a file with 16 test cubes (thanks to Bernhard for sharing). Not all cubes were printed, but all bottom layers were done perfectly:
Idea was to repeat the print with slightly ohter parameters. First I had to take the resin out and filtered it before reusing, because there were cured particles in the vat from the insufficient printed cubes.
Then I realized, there was air between the glas and the fep-film and cured resin on the glas in that area, where the cubes were not printed:
After cleaning the glas and the fep film I reassembled the vat and took care, that there is no air cushion between film and glas.
Second print with slightly modified print parameters was a success
X-distance over all cubes is 130,45 mm, the y-distance 127,9 mm. Both distances are in original 130,0 mm. So i plan to correct this with the print parameters X Size and Y Size in an further print:
x = (900x130)/130,45 = 896,9 --> X Size = 897
y = (900x130)/127,9 = 914,8 --> Y Size = 915
I hope that will work.
Due to the modified gcode-file from Bernhard all cubes are aligning perfectly, the angle between the outer cubes in x direction to that from y direction are exactly in 90°.
Bernhards postprocessor is eliminating all distortions perfectly in the gcode
All the Moai200 users are expecting this functionality wishfully in the firmware. Come on Peopoly, make us a great present for christmas
During preparing the next print I realized, that there was again resin between fep-film and glas.
With compressed air I could blew air under the fep-film in the suspected area, I created an air bubble. On that way I dedected a very small hole in the film. Replacement is necessary but not done yet.
@ad_fontec - if you would like to share this postprocessor for the small group of moai 200 user, that would be amazing.
@framecrack - do you have the glass plate that has holes on the sides to allow air to enter and escape? there are a few versions on the glass plate.
Air is not the enemy as long as it can escape and not in a vacuum.
Your FEP should stretch and bulge during the peel, a complete vacumm / adherence to the glass plate makes peeling difficult. .
remember not to over tighten the fep when you replace, and make sure it is totally clean
Nice to hear something from you again @johnchen.
I would like to share the program with you, but it is in an very experimental state and it is very large, since I have integrated a LUT to quickly transform the XY coordinates.
In addition, I could not test other important additional features, because I am urgently waiting for the Moai200 firmware update with the extended G-Code commands … (@peopoly, Mark: this would help us users to produce better prints very much!)
However, you can gladly send me a G-code file for testing, which I can then send you back converted. (email address by PM)
With which program do you cut the STLs?
Maybe I can integrate the reinforcement of the support structures with the post process (selectively reduce laser feed).
nice to read from you
is that the only and right procedure for changing the fep film?
Is there an other procedures for the Moai200 existing?
Any tips what the right tension is?
My glas plate has no holes vor air vent.
I´m not sure, if a vat with vent holes in the glas would get a better peeling effect?
In my imagination the peeling effect would be better, if there is a limited amount of air between glas and fep film, because then the gradient of the peeling force is higher?
What are others thinking about that? It´s only an idea
two peel forces to overcome during printing
1 - separation of part from fep
2 - separation of fep from glass
vent holes on the glass allows for easier separation due to no vacuum
it also makes application of fep film easier, no glass it is very hard to get all air bubbles out.
there are vent holes on the glass plate : http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai200:advancedplatepdms
you said your’s don’t have any vent holes, when did you purchase the Moai 200?
Hi peopolysupport, thanks for your response
Can you tell me the time period you´ve manufactured the “version A”: glas (without holes + fep film) and the time period for the “version B”: glas (with holes + pdms + fep film)? Have other versions left your facility? My glas plate have definitively no vent holes. Is “version A” from the preseries printer?
Is there a serial number somewhere on the Printer?
Lots of interesting info here. I have an easy level build plate for the moai 130 and it works awesome. I would love to have something similar for the moai 200.
The advanced plate definitely has vent holes on the one I got a few months ago.
i will check back with the team, will reply as soon as i get the answer
Printing Bernhards test file V3 with corrected X- and Y-size and the new fep film:
Laserpower was 47. This is good for all the details, but not enough to get connection from the base layers to the following layers, one cube has only the base layers on the building plate.
The outer distances over all cubes in X- and Y-direction are nearly perfect 130 mm.