New Moai 200 - on my way

Hi everyone,
Im also new with the Moai 200. I purchased it in April. the idea is to print some advanced parts for model builder purposes. I´m making construction or truck models in the 1/12 scale, they are moved with RC.
My first Job was to make a good Container on wheels to put the printer on it. So it is possible, to move when not needed. In the Container I have enough space for all the stuff. On the top I have a 5 mm steel plate with 3 levelling Points (two in the front and the middle on of the three in the rear). With These 3 Points I can Level the base for the Printer. The other 2 Points can be used to fix the levelled position.

20190707_121727 20190707_121831 20190707_122127

If it is necessary or not: When I begun preparing for priniting I thought it will be helpful.


During the weeks I read a lot in this forum about the Moai 200 I´ve purchased. I read a lot about all the experience other users made. The idea, to print the parts I want to have for my plan was dozen under. I won´t make all the same experience others made. So I tried to figure out which Problem zones on that printer are existing and how some of them could be improved.

1 Like

First modification I´ve planned was to simplify the levelling process. The current design has one Problem: 4 Points for levelling the VAT is physically one too much. Only with a 3 Point Support you are able to Level the VAT correct.
One other Point I don´t like are the 4 Points for levelling in the under part of the printer. The Access to the srews are not good for me. So I made my own design. Idea is to have a levelling mechanism near the building plate with a 3 point support. easy Access and handling. The complete height should be the same as original design, adjustability +/- 2,5 mm on each spindle. Good sealing against the flood of resin.
20190721_143740_resized 20190721_143926_resized 20190721_143833_resized


are you planning to cnc the new parts yourself? please keep us updated, thanks for sharing

i’m looking forward for this, keep us updated

Hey johnchen, nice to hear from you. I´m following all your posts :+1:
I´m producing the necessary parts by myself in my workshop, without CNC.
I got the lasered carring plates.


To level the building plate it is necessary to get the spindle rotated manually. For that I made a plastic wheel mounted on the upper end. The design doesn´t create a colission with the buiding plate arm.

1 Like

Very interesting! Looks like a neat design!

After few hours in detailing in CAD and nights in the workshop I´ve produced all the parts I Need for the three spindles. I´ve purchased also the springs and the seals.9

Now I have to assemble and check, if all the parts are matching well.

1 Like

All the parts has been assembled, I´m happy that all parts matched well.

I use the original Peopoly parts to connect with the arm of the z-axis.

I made also a building plate without all the holes for testing purpose. For the first test print I probably will use the original plate.

The original design and my new design have the same height.
In the Center of the three spindles I can adjust the height witch a screwdriver, the brass outer parts are the counter nuts to fix the positions. Springs in the spindle and at the counter nuts are keeping the spindles free of play during the adjusting procedure.


That’s a correct and professional mechanical design.
I am surprised that @peopoly still doesn’t understood that the adjustment should be done so, and offer us a clever buildplate…

looking good! good luck with your first print

Thanks David and John :wink:
Before I´ll start my first print, there are some other modifications I want to realize: The vat heating as John did. I purchased also a silicon heat belt and a pid temperature controller as Bernhard recommended.
Maybe I found an other point in the tilting table where the vat is mounted on.
On the other side I should begin to print and make my own experiences :roll_eyes: We´ll see.

1 Like

Next steps with “Johns vat heating”. To fix the silicone heating belt, I made some aluminium stripes in U-shape. I used 20x8 mm profile hollowed on my circular saw.

I drilled some blind holes on the vat frame and cut M3 threads in. I took care, that I don´t cross one of the holes for Fixing the vat film.

Assembled state with an 80W 230V heating belt.

WARNING: If you plan to do the same: With this modification, you have high voltage in your printer! Take care for correct Installation with sufficient insulation and connection to earth! It is the job for a qualified electrician.

1 Like

Test installation with the pid temperatur controller. I use a PT100 temperature sensor, temporary fixed with the clamp. I filles 0,5 l water to check the heating procedure.


love the time and effort you are taking to improve the printer, t

Did you use a different knob screw for the vat fixing ? the silicon belt bearly fits in between the standard knobs,


Do the screws go through the silicon belt?

I made some 40 mm extensions for the original knobs. So the knob is over the vat frame. The knobs are fixed with loctite.

1 Like

Yes, I made some holes in the middle between the two wires in the silicone.
I did that carefully with a 5 mm hole-Puncher. You have to be carefully to make the holes in the center to have enough insulation to the wires.

1 Like

Emptying the water after test heating it ran over the vat and along my heat belt. That is the same way, the resin will take after printing.
So I decided to install a spout at one corner of the vat. I cut out the vat with a radius milling cutter under 15° angle.

I formed the spout with copper (easy to form), fixed with two M3 screws and sealed on the vat with a silicon glue.

I hope it will help to work more clean :hugs:

1 Like