Just got my M200 to Australia and did my first prints. thought I’d start a bit of a log for people to see and other M200 users to chime in.
- Giant box arrived, its about 50kg and comes on a pellet. Make sure you have two people help move it
- Unboxing, its very very well packed, and there are two boxes protecting the Moai.
- no crappy styrofoam packing, which means no annoying little balls flying around.
- no visual damage from shipping
- unpacked moai
- galvo cover not installed, but is included, no M3 screws included for install. ( I had some )
- noticed some lateral movement in the tilt assembly where the leveling screws are held in place with springs, spoke to Mark about this and apparently its by design, this is different to my M130 where there is no lateral movement play.
- Gave vat a good clean with IPA and Microfibre cloth
- Pegs prints. A little squashed at 9.8mm ish each. will decrease Z reset by -2 // NEX Grey @ 54
- Boy, is it hard to remove the print off the new perforated print bed,
- Hard to remove all the trapped resin inside the holes for reuse
- initial impression, good overall build, built for large prints for sure, need to approach post print workflow differently to optimise time and safe resin.
- Did a test print of two very different types model, one head and one hair piece @100um
- Print was successful, however I can see random peel lines, will try decrease PM Speed and lower laser power
- Holy crap! it was hard to remove the print off the bed. Model was printed without a raft, so did not remove in obe piece easily and support base stuck to plate, had to work hard to clean plate.
- notices most of the holes had trapped cure resin inside where the print was.
- need to print with a raft and maybe speed up lower layer ( Thanks Paul T for the tip
- Current frustration lies with how to clean up cured resin trapped inside holes in vat
- @Peopoly, please create a 80um profile for M200 for Asura
- For NEX resin, using denatured Alcohol or methylated Spirit
- **@Peopoly, Please! give us a print out of the leveling guide, in particular how the leveling screws work, I keep having to jump on my computer and check it, getting resin everywhere
- Finally setup my printers how I want them in a big grow tent on the balcony of my apartment, Im sure the neighbors think I am cooking meth.
- got a fairly simple print on the 200 which should be done in 8 hours or so,
- first time using the Moai heater, it takes a loong time to ouput any sort of heat… ended up just using a hair dryer to warm the resin in the vat.
2nd print at 100um, completely failed, nothing on the buildplate, all stuck to the vat.
Resin stirred and heated.
Exactly same setup I used to successfully print leveling pillars.
Gotta love coming home after am 8 hr print to find a big blob of resin on the vat, especially on the M200 where its a major operation emptying the vat out and trying to get cured resin of the fep.
Gotta say, M200 has not impressed me so far and a bit of context, I’ve been printing with M130 for over a year and with the Photon for about the same time.
So back to the drawing board and getting prepared to be smothered with nice sticky resin everewhere.
Checking the gcode to make sure I didnt do something stupid like offset the first layer, and it looks fine,
So at least the raft should have printed and stuck to the plate right.
I used Asura 2.2 with 100um M200 profile…
So took a break from printing and got back into it on the weekend, Peopoly has produced a new leveling guide for the M200.
I went through all the steps and got the final stress test print to work, which means I should be good to go for a proper print.
I also replaced the FEP on the M200 just to be sure before I went through the leveling guide.
A reminder when replacing the FEP, there are four long screws that sit in the middles between the corners, and they go through both metal tensioners.
Will update when I get a proper print from new level.
Still struggling to come up with a more efficient solution to removing the print from plate.