NEW Moai 200 experience & tips log ( UPDATED )

#1


Hi Guys,

Just got my M200 to Australia and did my first prints. thought I’d start a bit of a log for people to see and other M200 users to chime in.

19-3

  • Giant box arrived, its about 50kg and comes on a pellet. Make sure you have two people help move it
  • Unboxing, its very very well packed, and there are two boxes protecting the Moai.
  • no crappy styrofoam packing, which means no annoying little balls flying around.
  • no visual damage from shipping

20-3

  • unpacked moai
  • galvo cover not installed, but is included, no M3 screws included for install. ( I had some )
  • noticed some lateral movement in the tilt assembly where the leveling screws are held in place with springs, spoke to Mark about this and apparently its by design, this is different to my M130 where there is no lateral movement play.
  • Gave vat a good clean with IPA and Microfibre cloth
  • Pegs prints. A little squashed at 9.8mm ish each. will decrease Z reset by -2 // NEX Grey @ 54
  • Boy, is it hard to remove the print off the new perforated print bed,
  • Hard to remove all the trapped resin inside the holes for reuse
  • initial impression, good overall build, built for large prints for sure, need to approach post print workflow differently to optimise time and safe resin.

21-3

  • Did a test print of two very different types model, one head and one hair piece @100um
  • Print was successful, however I can see random peel lines, will try decrease PM Speed and lower laser power
  • Holy crap! it was hard to remove the print off the bed. Model was printed without a raft, so did not remove in obe piece easily and support base stuck to plate, had to work hard to clean plate.
  • notices most of the holes had trapped cure resin inside where the print was.
  • need to print with a raft and maybe speed up lower layer ( Thanks Paul T for the tip
  • Current frustration lies with how to clean up cured resin trapped inside holes in vat
  • @Peopoly, please create a 80um profile for M200 for Asura
  • For NEX resin, using denatured Alcohol or methylated Spirit
  • **@Peopoly, Please! give us a print out of the leveling guide, in particular how the leveling screws work, I keep having to jump on my computer and check it, getting resin everywhere


22-3

  • Finally setup my printers how I want them in a big grow tent on the balcony of my apartment, Im sure the neighbors think I am cooking meth.
  • got a fairly simple print on the 200 which should be done in 8 hours or so,
  • first time using the Moai heater, it takes a loong time to ouput any sort of heat… ended up just using a hair dryer to warm the resin in the vat.

22-3
2nd print at 100um, completely failed, nothing on the buildplate, all stuck to the vat.
Resin stirred and heated.
Exactly same setup I used to successfully print leveling pillars.

Gotta love coming home after am 8 hr print to find a big blob of resin on the vat, especially on the M200 where its a major operation emptying the vat out and trying to get cured resin of the fep.
Not really…

Gotta say, M200 has not impressed me so far and a bit of context, I’ve been printing with M130 for over a year and with the Photon for about the same time.

So back to the drawing board and getting prepared to be smothered with nice sticky resin everewhere.


Checking the gcode to make sure I didnt do something stupid like offset the first layer, and it looks fine,
So at least the raft should have printed and stuck to the plate right.

I used Asura 2.2 with 100um M200 profile…

1/04

So took a break from printing and got back into it on the weekend, Peopoly has produced a new leveling guide for the M200.

http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai200%3Aleveling&fbclid=IwAR0kXXJKaCShz4AN63NN-g-rHgBIMvKHqxF58I66Q5MGRC4v4RkLQH-84ak

I went through all the steps and got the final stress test print to work, which means I should be good to go for a proper print.

I also replaced the FEP on the M200 just to be sure before I went through the leveling guide.

A reminder when replacing the FEP, there are four long screws that sit in the middles between the corners, and they go through both metal tensioners.

Will update when I get a proper print from new level.

Still struggling to come up with a more efficient solution to removing the print from plate.

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#2

Thx alot for your post.

When you have time and opportunity please post some pictures of prints still attached to the build plate. Seeing layout, supports and orientation helps to understand what the capabilities of the machine are.

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#3

Sounds like you need a tilt to drain holder device to help drip the resin off the build plate?

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#4

indeed and some sort of hole punch to push the resin out efficiently back into the vat.
Ive had to resort to using a metal hole punch and and mallet.
This doesnt feel like the correct thing to do on a 3K+ printer…

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#5

I fully concur with the difficulty in clearing/cleaning build plate.
I removed plate and stood it on end in a pie plate but not all resin drains. Particularly where the perforated plate meets the mounting (to x axis) fixture.
So far only a brush works for that. And the holes require a brush or pipe cleaner.
Anyone have ideas on how to do this better?

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#6

On the leveling posts they came out great for me. No adjustment needed.
Though each of the had at least part of a “pimple” created by sitting on or over a perforation (build plate), having resin enter the holes and being laser cured.
Getting the posts off the plate is quite difficult.

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#7

agreed, and trying to measure broken pegs is useless for level validation.
Mine pegs were off, so I tried to adjust the screws and made it worst, after 3 - 4 attempts I finally got them OK ( not perfect ) dealing with so much resin is not a fun post process.
Wasting resin is also not a great feeling.

M200 would not suit a hobbiest or someone who has a small work area. This printer should only be considered for a decent size workshop is my current evaluation.

Does your vat / top half of the tilt assembly have a slight 1mm side to side wiggle?

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#8

Yes, I noticed the movement but what I have printed has been successful except for the bumps on the bottom surface of the model.

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#9

Are you talking about solid resin staying in the holes or liquid?
I don’t have a 200, but on my 130 I only sometimes clean the build plate completely. I usually just let it sit or the tilted holder I made that lets everything drain down to one point and drip into the vat again. Then after a time I put a cover on the vat and a paper towel over it to collect any further drips.

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#10

The problem with the 200 perforated build plate is that resin cures inside the holes so that has to be removed with ”force”.

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#11

2nd print at 100um, completely failed, nothing on the buildplate, all stuck to the vat.
Resin stirred and heated.
Exactly same setup I used to successfully print leveling pillars.

Gotta love coming home after am 8 hr print to find a big blob of resin on the vat, espcially on the M200 where its a major operation emptying the vat out and trying to get cured resin of the fep.
Not really…

Gotta say, M200 has not impressed me so far and a bit of context, I’ve been printing with M130 for over a year and with the Photon for about the same time.

I understand how to setup a print…

So back to the drawing board and getting prepared to be smothered with nice sticky resin everewhere.

0 Likes

#12

Im considering stripping the machine down and starting from scratch,

Is it too soon? I really am not motivated enough to do this.

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#13

we all know very well the feeling @johnchen

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#14

that feeling and afterglow after bathing in resin from cleaning a failed print, times that by three because of the comically large build plate and vat :slight_smile:
been a hell of a week.

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#15

hey John,

We spoke via pm but I want to update the information to the community. The 200 leveling works in similar principle as the 130 but in practice it is much more complex due to much larger peel force and it is hard to make completely flat plate.

At 10.5mm the pegs would stick well on the built plate but a larger print may not. So when the builder working on the 200, the person would have to level to 10.3mm first and then run a large print to test. If the print fails at a particular side, then the builder will increase the pressure on that corner such that the height of the pegs is reduced. That is why you see some corners at 9.8mm. This fact was not communicated clearly before and this lead to your current issue. Please give us the weekend to come up with a better leveling guide for both you and our builders so we can level quicker.

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#16

Hi Mark,

Thanks for replying, no problems and I’m glad to hear there is a solution in the works.
Take your time formulating & testing the new guide, I need to take a few days break anyway.

Appreciate it.

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#17

Yes the resin “cures” in the holes wherever the model base touches the plate and is laser cured.
Otherwise it is still liquid and does drain sort of. But it is not fully drained after a few hours. If the next print job will use the same color resin then except for the cured resin in the holes, which should be physically cleared, the job can run.
I also have the M130 and never had an issue with the build plate hanging on to the resin like the perforated plate of the 200.

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#18

1/04

So took a break from printing and got back into it on the weekend, Peopoly has produced a new leveling guide for the M200.

http://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai200%3Aleveling&fbclid=IwAR0kXXJKaCShz4AN63NN-g-rHgBIMvKHqxF58I66Q5MGRC4v4RkLQH-84ak

I went through all the steps and got the final stress test print to work, which means I should be good to go for a proper print.

I also replaced the FEP on the M200 just to be sure before I went through the leveling guide.

A reminder when replacing the FEP, there are four long screws that sit in the middles between the corners, and they go through both metal tensioners.

Will update when I get a proper print from new level.

Still struggling to come up with a more efficient solution to removing the print from plate.

1 Like