After many weeks of trying to print the calibration file DIY test the quality of the prints has gone way down. Initially all the cylinders printed but at a smaller length maybe 8 and 9 mm to the point now where I only get 1 or 2 cylinders , and the rest only the bases print, I see the discs on the vat and some cylinders break off and also apprears after doing a full level reset that the cylinders have gotten smaller. Tried everything, cleaned the vat, filtered the resin, cleaned the buildplate, tried easy to level buildplate with same result. The room temperature is 30 degrees C. I’m using the regular vat and regular buildplate.Can anyone help me , I am lost, have no idea what to do or try next.
Okay I just cleaned the buildplate, used a comb and a plastic spatula to remove debris from the vat. In the area on the vat where the 2 cylinders print notice some cloudiness after cleaning the vat, that may be the issue why the quality has gone down of the print, there are also lots of bubbles after combing the vat, I’m going to let it sit a bit and maybe I’ll start printing something else in the middle of the vat to see how it goes.
Okay so i filtered the resin, cleaned the vat, made some photos to confirm the cloudyness in the DIY test print area, did a full level reset following step by step from Practical Printing. I’ve noticed something, in his video on his moai, when he sets it to 1880 to start and the buildplate goes down into the vat, the vat barely lowers, on mine it lowers quite a bit, the same happens with 1877 so i guess i need to lower the Z-reset value. Last time i lowered i remember printing all 4 cylinders at 1872.
At 1872 printed only B and 3 discs at the lenght of 9.4 mm.
Did you take the protective plastic off of the plexi galvo shield? It looks ”blueish” in the pictures.
Yes, i was told to do that just now by Peopoly, the laser looks a lot brighter now, set the Z-reset to 1877 as suggested by them to see how it prints.
All 4 cylinders printed now, that might of been one of the issues, they look a bit small, will measure and see.
Okay, the cylinders turned out a lot nicer than before, the look a lot sharper and the interior of them are solid unlike before, at 1877 A=8.9mm B=9.03mm C=8.96mm D=9.03mm, think i should try 1870 for start.
At 1870 A=9.62mm B=9.75mm C=9.67mm D=9.75mm, exactly as expected, 0.7 mm higher, so i guess i would need to lower it to 1860 to get in the 10.7mm range. The resin is currently halfway down the line, the question is will that affect anything?
Finally got the desired measurements, at 1860 A=10.62 B=10.74 C=10.67 D=10.73, wonder if it’s worth rotating A and C nuts towards the right 45 degrees.
Found the sweetspot A=10.7mm B=10.75mm C=10.75mm D=10.77mm. Tomorrow i start printing my statue, hope everything works out okay.
Started printing Vigo’s head, everytime it peels the layer now the sound is louder, im guessing it’s normal? I made a hole at the top and bottom of the head for relieving air pressure and draining the resin.
The popping sound during peel is normal. If the print fails now it is probably due to too much peeling force. Then you must try to alter the position of the model and/or add supports. Asura makes good crosslinked supports for most models.
Great, thanks for responding, will wait till the print finishes.
Well, after 13 hours at 50 microns using asura this is what i got, the print took longer that i initially thought but it came out very nice, only one small issue i see, the first couple of layers on the top of the head are a bit mushed and look like the have a shell over it, everything else looks great. I wonder if it’s because i made the air hole a couple of layers lower.
Off to a good start!
Thanks u sir for all you help and feedback.
Do you know what might be the cause for those first layers on the top of his head?
The rotation is the same i used in the video, just added internal supports to make sure everything went well.
I can’t find any video.