Need help getting small round rings and tubes to print clean and accurate


I need help learning how to best print things like this to keep them nicely round and accurate, using Tough resin.


I’m also having issues in Asura when I try to generate decode directly when the model is oriented to be parallel to the print bed. (to avoid needing any supports on the hard to clean up inside for taller items that may have other internal details. this model as a small ledge around the inside on one end that will act as a stop when it slides onto another cylinder.

I’m open to being wrong about printing this with the flat side away from the inner ledge parallel to the print bed, with a ring of supports around the bottom to lift it up to eliminate cupping.

I know the common thought is to print everything at around 45º but again that introduces internal supports and I’m not sure how accurate Z is? (and there isn’t a way I’m aware of to calibrate Z yet)

Asura software - Updated 12/29/2018 Undo, Save Project and Z-axis cross-section


OK I have a few hours of printing at the moment , but then I will try it on my moai
I you want I can pass the gcode , so you can try it
here it is


is this with or without distortion compensation?


with distortion corection general from peopoly it is within 0.1 mm


BTW, don’t waist resin on this if you don’t want to. you can load the gcode into Cura to view it. but like many 3D apps you can’t pan around so I can’t zoom in to see up close…

asura has a similar issue with no PAN tool (hot key) I’m aware of! So annoying…

However, what I could see seems to suggest maybe gcode export worked for you… Asura 2.2.1?

(EDIT - I figured out how to MOVE as they call it in Cura)


Asura 2.2.1

No I will try, I will move the printer soon , so the vat have to be finished
I am printing a figure for my son , that is painting them .
Dash :slight_smile:



I painted a few figures many many years ago


the gcode looked ok to me in Cura 3.6 viewing, so you didn’t get the same issue as I have… interesting.

this is one I got. IMG_6110

you can see it all shifted off to one side.

and in the gcode from 2.2.1

I forgot I also did this first try with the small ledge at the support side, like your gcode…

my latest tests have been the other way around.


Here it is turned up down


here it is last g code rotated in cura


that also looks ok in Cura… now I’m wondering what is up with my 2.2.1 install on windows 10 machine…


it looks like you expect? that’s where you put your supports?
it will be interesting to see how well it prints.


Win 7 64 bit here.
It is strange with these slicers.
I put dedicated win7 laptop , clean new instal windows 7 64 bit in order to run DWS XFAB as controller connected to the machine .
Ficor (controller app) works great, but I am not able to run the slicer Nauta, the same Nauta runs perfect on both my home laptop and Office workstation


yes supports are where I put them


BTW pan works ok with middle mouse button press and hold both in cura and asura
I use
Right mouse hold for rotate
Mid mouse scroll for zoom in and out
Mid mouse hold for pan
But I am used to this working with tons of different cad and cam system over the last 20 years


Many people don’t use or have a middle mouse button. I use Apple multitouch trackpads only.

I get around in Fusion 360 just fine with their controls on my laptop, on my iMac I use a 3Dconnexion Space Mouse.


I see
hardcore windows CAD user :wink:
3Dconnexion Space is a great aid


So I printed it success

Dimensions 3 measurements on 120 deg
Outer diameter 23.99 : 24.02 : 23.97
height 10.49 ;10.46; 10.50
inner diameter smallest 19.02 ; 18.98; 19.01
Do have in mind it was printed in the center
80 micron profile in Asura 2.2.1
58 laser power
mix of 30/70 grey/clear standard Peopoly resin


very good!
I have been using Tough resin at 100

do you see any kind of none perpendicularity to the sides as the go up? I got a good print last try, but feel like it’s a bit deformed, but I didn’t use Asura to generate the Gcode, given the issues I’ve been having with that…

Do you agree that flat to bed is good for this type of object then? or would you still try to do it at 45º?