Moia 200 resin basin liner is thiner then replacement

I have had problems with the 1.5mm plus liner the basin comes with, it gets sliced and then I am printing on the basin and it is un-usable. I have 30+ parts with the first 3 basins. Was able to save one of the basins and purchased a new liner. The original liner are 1.5mm thick and the replacements are 0.15mm. The build plate did not go done enough.
How to I adjust it to work or can you sell me the replacement that is 1.5mm thick. MatterHackers has only one size.

I purchased an assembled Moia and think it is a 200. It works with a basin, not a plate. The basin liner is a soft 1.5mm clear material different from the sheet I got that I have to cut and fit. I started printing with the sheet and it did not complete stick to the build plate. I suspect the plate did not start low enough because of different thickness. I need to know how to get this operational. Yes, I am a newbie.

Pictures please.

Re-level the build plate is a good idea, should solve any problems with thicknesses.

I am curious by what you mean liner exactly as I’m fairly sure nobody is selling 1.5mm thick FEP film for 3d printing.

If you have a vat that is not metal, it is unlikely you have the MOAI 200 which to my knowledge only uses the metal FEP vat. It sounds to me like you have a Moai 130 with the PDMS vats which are clear acrylic with a silicone layer. Replacing the silicone in these requires pouring new two part silicone. If you have purchased FEP to replace the silicone it will not work. You will likely need to get the FEP vat or look at some ways of refurbishing your PDMS vats/buying new ones.

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The new basin was printing its first two when slice in the liner (put a light on the side to show it) formed on one of the parts. There was actually a 1x0.5 cm irregular hole. It printed 70% and the rest was cured into the bottom of the basin. I had removed these and tried to clean the basin. It is ruined. This is the second basin ruined. One of them I caught before it was ruined and tried the fep film I purchased. That did not work, only partial contact with the build plate.
I am out 3 basins and you tell me that I have to purchase another? Why do they fail? At keyedbrick.com, the videos show the keyed bricks I printed, over 30. They worked, but now I am stopped.
Does anyone have a silicon liner?

So I can confirm that’s a Moai 130 PDMS silicone Vat, which is not a FEP vat and trying to put FEP film in it will result in failures. To refurbish a PDMS vat you need to find the appropriate silicone by searching through this forum or another about resurfacing PDMS vats for 3d printing. FEP is a completely different material for a different type of VAT, which may work better than the PDMS and I would consider less prone to leaks in my opinion.

I can’t realy help as to why your vats keep breaking, but FEP is not what you use to fix them. You can’t just buy replacement silicone liners for these you need to replace them with fresh 2 part silicone pour

Having had this same issue several times: this is the flaw with PDMS. PDMS vats are good for their low suction and adhesion benefits, but they’re fragile.
I have had this exact same resin, Peopoly flesh modeling resin, tear the vat. It can happen because your PM Motor speed is too high, your laser is too high, or there is a flaw in the vat. The resin likes to work in between things, gaskets and the PDMS layer, and loosen it up. It will always happen eventually.
I have a collection of these clear acrylic vats, or basins, and have been researching alternative vat coating materials. I have them for the same reason you have them, eventually they all just fail. You can sand the acrylic vat, remove the cured resin, clean it out, and use Acrylic Welding solution to smooth it again to the glass finish it has.
Here are the alternatives I have found and their availability depend on which country you’re from.

Clear Silicone Solar Panel PDMS:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LSVPPF/?coliid=I1IDJQYNPRULGP&colid=3TO6PAE4825RX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Breakable Glass. We discussed this on the Facebook forum and one user has had great success with this and it’s easy to replace. I have never used it and don’t know its behavior.

Jewelry Silicon. This is what I am looking at and it must be put on thin, but is very durable. The Translucent property is why it has to be put on thinner, but a small amount will go a LONG way.
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/mold_making_materials/mold_making_supplies/tap_platinum_silicone/494

Thankyou TMcCaine,
I have ordered the TAP Platinum Silicone System 1 Pink kit and the Acrylic Welding solution. I watched a video and picked the watery one. I have three basins, one ready for a the silicone. I will sand out the other two and get the acrylic Welding solution

That was stupid. I canceled that order and am ordering the Clear Silicone Solar Panel PDMD.

Please post the results! Each one is unique and I haven’t tried them yet. I’m curious how it ends up for you.

Good luck!

The initial coating (second) showed a lot of bubbles. But the cured coating (first) showed a few bubbles on the outside edge, not problem. I will be printing with this later today after 24 hr cure after I clean the outside better. It mirrored.me.
This coating is 1 mm. The original was closer to 2 mm. I have two other basins to do.

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you’ll likely need to re-level or change your homing point if the thickness has changed. Good to see it came out clear but double check it cured on a level surface and is flat, as well as cleaning up a bit more with alcohol might help prior to pouring and putting something over it to stop any dust getting in the silicone.

Good luck

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This is the result of printing with the new liner. These have 42,000 data points each and come fairly well. I do have to spend an hour fine tuning and sanding supports material off. These parts are what I used you tube video. They are an evolutionary step in making brick structures without adhesives.
I have another basin that I had to grind off the plastic part. That is taking multiple layers of Weld On to get rid of the ground out scratches for a level surface. I’ll post that before I ad the silicone layer.

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basin%20before%20and%20after%20Weld%20on
These are two basins whose liner had torn and the plastic printed on the basin. They were prepared for Weld on to be applied at the top. The bottom shows the effect of a dozen or more layers. I poured thin layers and let it dry. This did not work.
Weld on is great for filling scratches, they disappeared. It is not great trying to dry a level surface. It formed waves. Since a laser has to shin through them, they have to be consistent. I will not a make new silicon lineer for them. I bought a new basin

I used a new basin, first part perfect, second part I had to stop. The liner had a hole. Bought another basin. First part perfect, second part the liner torn a hole. Then it finely occurred to me, I had a pattern. So I made a silicon liner for both the new basins and printed a perfect part. Then after I had cleaned the build plate, I then carefully dried it a couple more times using Charmin toilet paper. It is a heavier, stronger paper with small fibers good for getting into corners and getting small amounts of fluids. I think my problem was residual alcohol that interfered with first layer sticking. I have printed 6 parts without incidents following the new drying protocol.

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