MOAI 200 First prints

Hello All !
I’m new here, we just bought this printer to print big things !
The problem here is the quality is not what we expected …
I’ve tested this character on a anycubic photon ( left ) at 40 micron and at right it’s the MOAI 200 at 80 micron.
The details are not good at all ( eyes shapes are blured , we see layers and artefacts etc …)


my workflow is
support, hollow and hole in chitubox
slicing in asura 2.2.4 quality 80 microns
( Cura setting in the same quality say us 3 times more for printing ! )
laser 52
resin Elegoo ABS like ( on all prints )

So my question is do you have any advices ?

thanks a lot !!

1 Like

First of all I do not think you will get good results if you use resins that are meant for MSLA printers like the Elegoo printers. Moai 200 is an SLA printer and you should use designated SLA resins to get the expected results. The energy in the SLA printer’s laser spot is much higher that in an MSLA printer.

thanks for reply !
We can’t manage this with the lazer power ?

Yes, you can try different settings and laser power and you can get things to print. However, I do not think you will get the best results. The MSLA resins are much more photosensitive and the energy in the tiny laser spot is very high compared to the energy from the LED array in an MSLA printer. I suggest you try to print the same model with Peopoly’s grey resin to get a comparison.

you can’t expect the MSLA resin to perform best on an SLA machine, it just not meant to be printed with SLA
however, similar results can be achieved with lots of try and error with the laser power, it’s best to try with the ring test, the lost in detail indicates over curing

It say that is compatible that why we brought it …
I understand how to know for overcuring but not for undercuring, do you have any advice ?

Do you think I must buy the Phenom, because I have access only to msla resin in France ?

Thanks again !

@Paskal

Regarding the SLA resin I buy directly from Peopoly to Finland. No problems and fast shipping. I have also a MSLA printer and buy different resins for that.

Hi Whazaa !
thanks you right and it’s really cheap !!
thanks I’ll come back with my prints update next week !!

2 Likes


Hello,

we’ve start a new print with Nex grey this time at 51 for Laser with asura, and the result is better, but the resin is sticky and soft …

Do you have any advice ?

yes, as mentioned on the FB group. Denatured alcohol with a artist brush works best. IPA doesnt work as well with NEX resin.
what resolution did you print with?

Oh thanks !
It was 60 @ , no need ultra sonic too ?

I would not use solvents in ultrasonic cleaner, it is extremely dangerous.

1 Like

closed to succes !

Only problem is support broked to the opposed arm …


Need a levelling ?( supports were all on build, but some breaked at 0.5 cm ( arm ))

hey , thats pretty good, I think it may some slight level tweaking, did you print the pegs? if Not, print the pegs and report back with the measurements.

Also take photos of your printer settings and advance settings and post them here.

I ve done a levelling and its failed on the part where the rhino loose his arm … But like I said the supports where generated but failed later ( 0.5 cm then fail ) Do you think it’s a levelling issue ?
I found that’s a complicated repair process no ?

Give us the exact measurements for each peg, calibration is important.

  • use digital calipers
  • take care to remove the pegs without damage to the bottom.
  • using hair dryer to warm the pegs will make them easier to remove with a razor

It can be too low or too high, without the measurement from the other pegs I can’t tell you what to do :wink:

ure firmware looks fine.

Ok I’ve only a analogic caliper …
But 3 pegs failed …
A: 10,9
B : 11
C: Fail
D: Fail
E:10,8
F : 11,1
G:11
H fail
I: 11,05

ok, you are pretty close, but a little too tall, ideal is 10.5

change your PM RESET to 2575 this will shorten the pegs by 0.5mm each

reprint the pillars and remeasure and report back. hopefully this time all pegs will be printed.

2580 is not better ?
wiki say “Our goal is to have all 9 cylinders printed and their heights are between 9.5 - 10.5mm.”
so be at 10 mm is better no ?

i aim for 10.5 :wink: but do as you wish! Im just offering experience advice