Moai 130 setup questions



I’m new to SLA, and have a little experience with FDM on an ultimaker 3. I just got my MOAI in the mail this week (sans the FDM vat and UV light which were on backorder). I have a few questions and comments.

All the material I’m finding says that the test print (the four circles on each corner) should take about 15 minutes. It consistently takes 35 minutes per print for me. I followed the directions explicitly with regards to advanced settings. I’m using “regular” peopoly blue resin. I’m using the regular vat since FEP is on backorder (with non-fep settings for build plate). Did I likely do something wrong that’s making things slower than they should be? Not a huge deal for the setup print, but if my print speed is 230% of what it should be, that’s going to be super painful when I go to do a day long print that really takes 2.3 days. What should I be looking at to get speeds where they should be?

The install guide seems to be for the Moai 100. There isn’t anything mentioning install for the heater/uv system/fep vat. Maybe the guide on the SD and online could be updated? I’m sure I’ll figure it out, but a manual is always nice.

There are two headers on the mainboard (he2 and he3). They aren’t referenced in the manual, and the manual photos show blanks where the header connectors should go. Are these headers for the UV and Heater by chance? If not, i was thinking of upgrading the power brick and wiring them onto the mainboard somewhere. Seems like a fairly easy mod if it’s required. I don’t relish the idea of leaving the back off the MOAI so I can run another power cord out the back of it for the heater (and possibly the UV when that arrives). What are the he2 and he3 headers for on the mainboard?

The manual says to glue the clear plastic cover over the laser assy to protect from spills hitting the laser/mirror assembly. There were already screws here where the shipping cover was mounted. I opted to drill holes in the plastic cover and screw them on because I didn’t want to buy and use glue. Why not just laser cut some holes in the plastic cover and tell users to screw the clear plastic in where the cover was previously? That seems like a super easy way to improve things just a little.

I live in Florida, USA. It’s warm here all year. My air conditioner works hard to keep it 72f/22.2c indoors. I’d like to avoid the extra heat output that my AC will be having to counteract in the end. Do you think I need to use the heater given my ambient temperature?


First off… welcome to the community!

Question 1…
What are your settings/firmware? Seems a bit slow, but I know it prints slow… these are what you are using to calibrate the vat.

Comment 1…
There is no Moai 100. Its only the 130 and 200.

Question 2…
Im not totally sure what the headers are for, but NEVER EVER plug a heater into the Moai. Always use a heater with a separate power source and use a good heater that is shielded.

Comment 2…
I agree. But I just use double sided tape.

Question 3…
I would be more worried about humidity than heat. As long as you install a heater that keeps it consistent around 28-34c you should be fine.


I was on 1.16 before I posted. Right after posting, I upgraded to 1.18 - my results have not changed with the upgrade. I’m using the settings from here exactly: (that’s the moai calibration guide from the setup guide)

I assumed the regular “moai” on the peopoly site was the 100. They list 3 printer kits (assembled and as kits). I must have been mistaken.
They have

  1. MOAI Affordable Laser SLA Printer
  2. Moai 130 SLA Printer
  3. Moai 200 (under a separate menu)
    I’m not sure where I got it into my head that the fist one was the “100”.
    The difference I could find between 130 and non 130 were the fep vat, heater, and uv light. I don’t know if there’s anything else. My FEP vat and UV are both on backorder, so I’m using a regular vat. They included one of those and I also bought one (assuming they would not include it).

I’m using the heater that was included with the kit.
I was trying to avoid running seperate power cord from the unit, and drilling another hole to do it. I may end up upgrading the power brick and splitting the cable that’s inside the system. That would be super simple and I probably have a sufficient 24v power supply on hand already. The main moai brick is rated at 2.5a and the heater brick is capable of 24v 5a. The similarity in output and increase in capacity was why I was suspecting that the heater brick might have been meant to replace the original while running the heater from the mainboard. Thanks for clarifying the intended use (or lack of intended use) for the additional headers.

Honestly I don’t understand the purpose of the heater in SLA printing. I understand the reasons for a heated print bed in FDM. I guess I need to do some more reading.

I’m closing in on finishing calibration finally. I had labeled the corners incorrectly, so I was adjusting the wrong screw each time. I guess it’s true what they say. 9th time’s a charm (I hope, it’s printing now). I’m getting consistent and roughly the expected results from an adjustment now, so I have renewed hope that I’ll be done soon.


the time can be either longer or shorter depends on your PM motor speed

heater guide:[]=heater
fep vat settings :[]=fep
fep vat build:[]=fep
uv box :
you can find all guides you need on moai wiki:

some connections are there but they are for very experienced user or engineers who wants to tinker with the moai

there are two holes on the plastic cover and they match with the 2 screws there, just unscrew them and add the plastic cover

if the weather is hot, no need to turn on the heater


In a nutshell, the heater is to warm the resin to promote the photopolymerization reaction.

The laser provides energy to activate a photoinitiator, which drives the polymerization of the resin monomer. As with all chemical reactions, adding energy (heat) to the system reduces the threshold (uv) energy required to drive the reaction and accelerates the polymerization process. The end result is more reliable (stronger) prints.


I just want to point out that

Moai 130 has the same printer hardware as the original Moai but with more accessories added. It comes with the PDMS vat as the original Moai so you can start with that.

The heater requires much more power than the Moai printer and thus it has its own, more beefy power adapter.

It is best to print 25C or higher with 30-35C being the most efficient spot. This heater is sensor controlled such that the heat block turns off when it is too hot while the fan stays on.