Maker Juice - WaxCast


#1

Any experience with MakerJuice WaxCast?

Compatible with a Form2 and many others according to MJ.


#2

Yes I’ve been using it with slandered settings but with laser power 57-59
Wax Cast reacts heavily during burnout which results in more time to finish object, filing and buffing and a higher rate of loss to gram weight. Expect a 20% lost in gold weight do to clean up.


#3

Hmm. Interesting. Any other castable that you have used that you would prefer over the MJ WaxCast? I would really not like to spend $300 USD on a liter like the FormLabs stuff.


#4

I’ve done a little experimenting with FTD but it was a little old, so I’m waiting for a new bottle to continue my experimenting.

The last batch of rings I did with Waxcast turned out a little better but I let them cure under UV light and water overnight castings were a little smoother! I’m going to try it again tomorrow after they cure for twelve plus hours in water under UV light and a 10 plus hour burnout.

Curing and burnout all the two most crucial aspects to get a good cast with little waste.

Look under category bits and you will see some of my waxes and finished rings.


#5

Cool.
Thanks for the info. Keep me posted on the FTD stuff. The WaxCast items looked decent.


#6

The prints come out great, but the gold castings have a lot to be desire.


#7

And that is because of the clean up work that is needed. But all said and done I’ve made many rings with it and most of them have turned out very well after all of the finishing that was required.


#8

Bobby_Allen any updates on waxcast? tweaks? best new settings? just asking. just picked up a liter. would rather use waxcast for one offs then make a mold.


#9

Bobby_Allen, do you use a regular Vat or must you use fep coated? With the makerjuice resin. Did you print anything large with succes? We printed something with photocentric castable resin. Of 130mm x 40mm x 40mm with supports


We Got this first results with settings of Power=50 Height = 0.025 and Speed = 180. Also P=50, H=0.05 S=80 (extremely slow),

P=57 H=0.025 S=180 Tares of the pdms and causes problems earlier on in the print.

In general the problems start to appear at 40mm height, but the supports always print fine.


#10

I don’t do real tall prints, since I do mostly rings, and I just use a reg vat that I line myself.


#11

Anyone else have any idea why it fails? I tried putting it more straight and with lower supports but if fails the same. I’m gonna try a fep vat next or a different castable resin. Unless anyone has a different idea. I allready tried a really slow tilting speed of the vat. That fails the same.


#12

it has to do with the fact that most castable, especially WaxCast, have wax in there. Real wax would make the cured print softer than most resins and thus not ideal for large print. Another potential issue is that if this resin is not for SLA printer, it can kill PDMS quickly to a point that for large print cannot finish before a vat is done.


#13

can u suggest a castable resin that would be suitable? and would the fep coating on pdms solve the problem if the resin is not for sla printer?


#14

The fundamental problem is resin that is easy to print big is hard to burnout. This has to do with polymer/monomer userd as well as wax. Are you even able to burn something out at the size? We are not burn out experts.

It has little to do FEP. In anything, FEP is more sticky and reduces resolution of the print.