Just joined the family!

Hey all! Just joined and would like to introduce myself as well as seek any advice you’d care to offer.
First things first, I’m Bob, pleasure to be here. I’ve been printing for about seven years, ever since I bought my first FDM printers, three MakerFarm i3Vs. Today I finally took the plunge into SLA and purchased a like new, gently used Moai 130 for half the price after doing a week’s worth of research and YouTube review watching. I decided to go Moai due to the build size, as I do a lot of prototyping.

Because of my familiarity with 3D printing as a whole, plus my “Go big or go home” mindset, I also went ahead and bought a FEP vat, liter of grey resin and an easy level plate from MatterHackers as well as a roll of FEP film from McMaster-Carr. While I’m waiting for those to arrive, I’ve started converting a multi-drawer wheeled cabinet into my new 3D printing station, complete with built-in high output UV lamp in one of the larger slide-out drawers as well as a parts wash basin with sprayer off to the side, to run recycled filtered resin wash through. When finished, it will hold not only my Moai, but my Ender 3 Pro and CR6-SE. Needless to say, I like to be prepared lol.

Some of the things I’ve already considered once everything gets here include: inspecting and cleaning the galvos with a lint-free IPA swab, if necessary; installing an 8in spare heated build plate inside the cabinet to provide a heat source; adding a fan/vent to the back to run through a charcoal filter; and lastly, adding a resin filtering system of some sort. Do any of these sound like decent ideas, and what other advice/modifications would you recommend?

Thanks for taking the time to read all this :slight_smile:

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Welcome, first up the new updates look promising, and should be finalised soon (I hope). They should fix some of the issues FEP vat users like myself are having with prominent layer lines: Upcoming update for Moai / Moai 200

As far as your ideas for what to do, make sure you follow the galvo cleaning guide for that, for a heater (if you need one) make sure your heat source is going to evenly heat the area, both over time and in terms of not having half the printer cold, half hot. For the fan/vent thing, the moai isn’t exactly sealed, so you might need to add some foam to the door and what not if you want to make it a closed system for fume extraction.

I’m not sure entirely what you mean by the wash basin with a sprayer, but make sure you’re aware of the dangers associated with uv resin and especially ipa mixed with uv resin, wouldn’t want to be spraying that stuff around.

Good luck!

Welcome,
i’m glad that you have the right mindset to worry about all that was written
SLA is very different than FDM, so unless you know what you are doing, just ask. We will always try our best to help. Pictures and videos will be best to explain

About safety, filter is the second shield. You want to make sure that you have a well ventilated air or the Moai is air sealed. The odor from the resin is bad and the odor from the cleaning alcohol is worse.
Follow safety procedures in the MSDS and you will be ok

Good luck, and happy printing

Depending on where you keep your printer you may not need a heater. I keep mine I. My house and it’s usually around 70F. I’ve never needed a heater. I print exclusively with model gray since model clear is so hard to get.
The resin smell is beyond bad. I FDM printed a cover for the vat which I keep on when not in use. That helps a lot.
I’ve had best luck hollowing models with mesh mixer. Be sure to add drain/vacuum holes as needed.
I hand orient and hand build supports with Asura.
My background is also FDM and SLA is pretty different. There are a lot of new basics you’ll need to learn to get proficient.
Good luck!
Have Fun and be patient.

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So my Moai arrived today. Been busy setting it up all afternoon. Installed the FEP vat, calibrated it using the circle diagram and gcode, everything looked great. Cleaned the galvos cover with 90% IPA and blue shop towels. Installed the easy-level build plate, brought it down to the plate using the recommened 1816 setting, tightened it up. Updated the firmware to 1.20 and modified the setting based off the installation txt file in the zip. Filled the vat with Peopoly gray, laser power of 58 and the default settings that were there. tried printing the ring gcode, it only printed the first few base layers which stuck to the FEP film. Watched a few calibration/levelling YouTube videos, did the recommended paper under the nut test. Then ran the four corner post test. All four bases were stuck to the build plate, but only D printed fully. The rest merely printed a few base layers. So here’s where I’m at, wondering what I have done wrong. Any advice on optimal settings for fw 1.20 with the FEP vat, Peopoly standard gray resin and easy plate would be greatly appreciated!

with the ez build plate, remember to push the build plate down to the vat ( just enough that you feel the spring under the vat ) evenly and then tighten the screws as you still pressing it

if it still does not work, increase the z reset 1-2 values and try again with the DIY-test

Thanks for the tips! A quick update…

So I redid the bed level check with the paper, seems I did it wrong. So I backed all the nuts off til no threads were showing,then did them one at a time. Only took a few quarter turns before the paper wouldn’t come out, so I used that as my base. Reran the DIY_test, all four posts printed! Only, they were +/- 8mm (0.07 either way). So I looked up the awesome turn calculator on Thingiverse, gave all of the nuts four complete ccw turns (again, +/- a fraction of a turn), and am now currently rerunning the DIY_test. I’ll update again when I get the final results. I’m just glad I got all four corners to finally print! Any progress is good progress in my book.

Update 1: Second test finished. B and D printed fully, A and C printed appx. 1mm that is stuck to the FEP. Preferred height was 10.8. D printed 10.73 and B printed 10.31

i think you understand this incorrectly, if you have EZ build plate, DO NOT adjust the screws underneath the vat

follow this guide : https://wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:levelingnewplate

It’s all good. I was able to get it printing great, currently in the middle of my first big print (SANIX Captain Marvel maquette), which looks spectacular!

The reason I adjusted the bottom screws was due to the original owner having both the standard plate and PDMS vat, and had the bed calibration off. When I first installed the EZ plate and the FEP vat, and leveled it the normal way (1816 setting, pressing slightly down on the plate as I tightened the screws), it still would not print and instead was stuck to the FEP film. Only by resetting the bottom screws was I able to start getting successful prints. Thank you so much for all your assistance, by the way! I’m loving this machine, hands down!

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Looks like a few failures on that print already sadly… might want to add some big supports to help with the bulk of suction forces.

Recommmend hollowing the model and adding drain holes on the bottom of the feet or as near the build -late as you can manage to reduce suction forces

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