Issues with leveling

I just got my Maoi printer and I’m having issues leveling it and was hoping someone could help :frowning:

These were my various attempts at leveling. Everything was going fine and then all of the sudden my A peg stops printing and then when I adjusted the c peg and the a peg they both disappeared.

I also noticed in the leveling test right before the A peg stopped showing up, the C peg was cut slightly and getting squished. I’m not sure where to go from here. Please help

It’s normal that you would go through this
what is your build plate type? vat type?

can you explain further?

Please make sure that the vat is free of debris before staring a new print. The pegs may not print out but there will be a circle of cured resin under the vat


This is what my c peg was looking like

Ok I’ll clean all the little circles out

I also have a standard build plate that comes in the kit and PDMS resin vat

So I cleaned the little circles out of the vat and now I’ve got leaning pegs

Ok so the leaning was my mistake . I didn’t tighten the build plate when I reinstalled it. Now I’m just having issue with getting all 4 pegs to print.

with FEP vat you would need to adjust the z reset position as well
if you keep having 1-2 pegs not printed on the green zone, you can increase the z reset, usually it would be around 1816-1820 depending on your leveing

So all four pegs print now but my A peg has a slight lean and it doesn’t print completely together. When I first see it on the build plate it looks good but then when I go to remove it, it’s barley attached to the plate and comes off in two pieces ( see photo)

you are getting a slight layer separation, you can increase the z reset 1-2 more value. This is usually due to the layer separation is not fully peeled


I’m super frustrated. I’ll send photos of my settings

I changed the z reset and that worked for a bit but then pegs started disappearing one by one after I almost had all the pegs level ( peg D and B were about 10.7 and C was 10.4 and A was 10.4 )

it’s my fault that i shouldn’t ask you earlier, your settings is currently off mark
change the following and re-do the leveling
laser power (60 is too high, it will overcure the resin and stop it from forming), follow the laser guide here :
z reset position 1816
PM reset position 40
Z follow 2

you almost nailed last time with the wrong parameters so this time things should go well, good luck with your leveing

So I changed it to the settings you recommend and I got no pegs I’ve tried adjusting the screws underneath and still nothing …

it’s been a while since you last comment, i suggest you go through the Moai check up guide:

you can try to level the vat to the Moai frame in order to reset everything, this can be done with a leveling ruler. After go with the leveing guide to level the vat to the build plate

I haven’t got back in a while because I’ve been looking around on other forums and testing different theories out. I also work so I can’t do this everyday.

I’ve still got a leaning problem. Peg c and a lean to the left . A has a stronger lean

OK so I think the leaning problem is gone. all my pegs are the right size now the only problem I have now is that my A peg Is falling off half way through, from it not sticking well on the first few layers.

I can also hear the print peeling really loud at about 50 layers in.

what have you tried, since the reset?
do you have any pictures?

I have been active on the Facebook forum and wanted to see what activity is on here. Peg printing is a very common issue because of the uniqueness of the vat tilt. This is what I do for my 130 and the Block Buildplate (what you have pictured).
My suggestion is to use a Dial Indicator. They’re inexpensive on Amazon or Harbor Freight. I would suggest a digital one that has a 0 reset ability. That would help you get it to within a 0.03mm accuracy.
Set the Z Reset position to 650 with a 1/2 inch Dial Indicator (digital one on amazon, if you get a different one you will have to figure out your best Z Reset position). Use the flat side of the indicator to put in the FEP vat where a peg would be printed (A for example). Adjust all Vat leveling bolts to the midpoint. Set the indicator to 0. Reset the Z Reset position by 2, single click. Reset it back to 650 and double click. It will rise, set the indicator into the next peg position (B for example). Raise or lower the bolt until it is 0.00. Repeat on all 4 pegs at least twice.

This is where it gets tricky. If you use the default Block Buildplate you have to eyeball where the best Z reset position is. It will not be exactly what it is listed, but it’s a good place to start. You have to continuously reset it until the vat does not sink with no resin in it. I use my fingers on the edge to feel if it pulls. As soon as it doesn’t, I begin the peg test and reaise/lower the Z reset position until all pegs print, and each are around 10.7mm. They should print at 11.13, no larger, if 100% perfect.

If you use the EZ Level build plate, you loosen all 4 bolts on the plate and lower it to the expected Z reset position. The build plate should not sink, but the plate should settle. Tighten all 4 bolts like you would a tire. Top Left, bottom right, bottom left, top right.
You’re done.

From here you would only need to manage the Z Reset position for PDMS and FEP swapping. No more calibrating. I have run this for 1.5 years and replaced FEP with a 0.1mm variation during that time.

If you’re unable to get a Dial Indicator you can do the same thing with a machinist block, or a squared block of anything. It would change the Z Reset level you use, and you would have to raise and lower it to your best judgement.
I find either of these methods to be simpler and less restrictive than the published method.
I’ll answer any more questions if you have them, hopefully this helps others.