Impossible design


So i am new to printing with only a test ring and 40 of the bed level poles printed.
The fact these printers are so difficult to level astounds me.
When you move one corner the other corner is effected but not 1 to 1 as springs are involved so you chase it round and round untill its almost exact at 10.7mm ± .02mm
Among that issue theres the issue of the mounting plates that bend and warp because they are made too thin.
Has anyone noticed the pealing motor stalls while setting home possition evey time its turned on flexing the mounting brackets?
Or the fact they could have used a more robust linkage to connect the pealing motor.
Anyway i was modifying the build plate with a ball mount so leveling would be a brease and it was. Only problem is the pivot for the resin tray is under the level of the vat so as it peals it creates a sliding motion to the printed model. Im going to move the position of the bar from underneath the vat level to above it with some brackets which will drop the vat away from the model vs tear it sideways. Ill keep you posted on these mods as if successful will change the moai from one of the most painfull printers into a worth while tool.

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Peopoly is about to release a adjustable buildplate to make the leveling easier so i wouldnt “waste” much time on that mod!

I didnt have that much trouble leveling the printer, what i realized is that you need to work on the nuts by small increments so you can readjust all the points to “perfection”. Doing full turns (even if you need to) might not be a good idea, its better to do 1/4 and check all sides to see if they are maintaining there position and if not, adjust accordingly

The motor hiting the bracket and skipping is the way they found for the vat to be in the exact home position when you fire up the printer, it forces itself up and then tilts, thats considered normal. I have seen no evidence of the plates warping because of that (but i dont have the printer long enough to assure you it wont happen).
What i wonder is if the motor actually needs to be forcing itself against the bracket all that time, maybe that time could be reduced?!



Leveling isn’t any fun but once it’s done you can pretty much forget it. I use one of three vats and never adjust anything between them.

Don’t go too nuts on making mods when the printer is brand new to you…the design is proven and has been working fine for many so far. Sure there are areas that could stand improvement, just don’t get hung up on those areas that once done are done…when I first got mine I was overly concerned about the leveling and was thinking of all sorts of ways to improve on it but once past that I haven’t thought about that once. Get to doing what you bought the printer for…printing.

But if you do find ways to improve things definitely let the forum know. I will be posting my heater and lights additions soon, the best mods I’ve done!




For leveling, PDMS is very tolerant of minor difference and the height of peg can be from 10-11mm for printing. 10.7mm is a good guideline to shoot for to get great adhesion and longer PDMS life and you don’t have to be exact. You cannot get exact also due to PDMS elasticity.

Yes the quick leveling/fep vat, it is coming out soon



we heard you Macolm, that is why we made the easy to level plate. Don’t throw away the original tho as it serve as the keystone reference for vat/plateform to level to.



so an update on the issues,
yep these days i can say the easy level build plate works well although its messier but you can have more resin in the vat.
the fep vat is going great and i installed the heater which helps a ton but most of all there’s no pdms to go foggy after one failed print.
make sure you clean your galvo mirrors as dirty mirrors ruins everything.