Hi-temp resin needs overcuring (plus ode to the moai)


#1

I used to print hi-temp resin at laser power 50 or 51 with good result but in some spots resin looked melted down like it was not cured instantly but slowly during the print.

So I started pushing the laser power a little and I must say that you can get incredibly good results by overcuring hitemp. I don’t know how @peopoly feels about it but 52 already gives you a better surface finish, 53 is better if you have large support areas.

Some proof. The following has been printed at 60µm at it looks amazing.

Here you can finally see the height lines. Printing this at 40µm would make a wonderful print, but I assure you they are invisible to the naked eye.

And now please contemplate the absolute perfection of these layers

60µm + hitemp is the shit, guys.

You can indeed see a little overcuring, but it’s well worth the overall print quality.

Please note I’m using Cura 3.5 and the latest profiles.


Help with HI-Temp resin
#2

Newb question- but how do you spot overcuring ?
NIce prints. Ive yet to push my unit past basics :wink:


#3

you can’t. it’s all or nothing :slight_smile:


#4

Sorry to reintroduce this thread. I just started with the grey hi temp resin, and have only printed a single figurine so far. I did multiple ring test and found that only at 49 do I get a decent ring printing with all of the holes empty. I tried printing and actual figurine at 49, but it was an utter failure. I printed the initial one at 51, which worked, but was notably less detailed than black resin, although I love the finish. I see that Matt3o is OVERCURING this, which would make the supports work well, I am sure. But what will this do to very fine details… I am printing miniatures that have tiny details that will not be great if smudged. Has anyone tried overcuring this resin with little figurines? I think the test shown above is excellent for a bigger model without the tiny detail.

If that’s not the best option, then is there a way to make laser power 49 work better? I can start with less fine, more robust supports, the delay script, and changing z-rest to 60. Any other suggestions?


#5

hitemp is not good for small and hi detailed models (like miniatures), unfortunately. There’s no way around that, each resin has its purpose.

to get better result you already outlined the best practices: big and fewer supports, slower tilt action and the delay script.

best of luck!


#6

Nex Grey / Flesh resin works more efficiently at 100um. You still get good resolution and smooth finish and much faster print and easy to finish.

@matt3o

the resolution has to do with the color and Nex Black is in development.


#7

Ok, that’s what I need to know. I’ll go back to standard black for the minis. And thank you peopoly support, i’ll Try 100 micrometer with the NEX resin. Although, I have to admit that the resolution printing on Matt3o’s original post is really nice.


#8

Out of curiosity Matt3o… did you print that straight up and down, with the base adhering to the build plate, or was the base on some sort of support? Looks like the z lines go straight across, not at an angle. I always thought you weren’t supposed to have things sticking directly on the build plate? If it was, then how do you get it off without damaging the model?


#9

the model is straight up but on a raft of supports (not touching directly the build plate).

regarding @peopoly suggestion to print at 100um… totally depends on the model you are printing. The deadpool above would lose quite some details at 100um. I find 60-80um to be the sweetspot and 100 only for really big models.


#10

60um gives you quite nice. but if you are under tight deadline, 100um + sand paper + mineral oil will work wonder. actually, always put mineral oil on Nex print. It really brings out the color tone and protects it against degrading from UV. works for regular Peopoly resin too.