Help with calibration

#1

I just bought the FEP-VAT for my printer(MOAI 130, original from kickstarter-campaign), after destroying a lot of PDMS-based VAT’s. Have recoated them several times but they always get destroyed after a while.
Tried the FEP-VAT out with a print that failed immediately, so it figured that the printer might need a re-leveling. Downloaded the DIY-test.gcode file and tried it out. It printed a cylinder in corner A but the other ones was just i disc that got stuck on the FEP-film. Have tried several adjustments on the other corners and got 3 cylinders in corner AB and D to print. But when i adjusted the C-corner, all of the cylinders except A again just printed a disc that got stuck in the VAT. I seriously dont know how to proceed from here since making a adjustment in one corner fails the others.
I no longer have the PDMS-VAT so I cant calibrate from that and then switch to the FEP and go from there.
What should I do, following the calibration guides does not tell me anything if there’s nothing printed in a corner, it just tells if the cylinder is to high or to low? May it be that there’s no contact at all in the corners that wont print?

Using the configurations listed on the wiki and Z-reset position on 1816.
Using FEP-VAT
Using standard build-plate.

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#2

whats the tower heights you are getting from the test print. also temp of resin and how clean are your mirrors?
i use the fep vat and im surprised that it works well. i also know of a glass bottom vat in the market that i want to get my resin covered hands on.

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#3

FEP has issues with layer release :\ RainX helps a lot, and so does very slight over-curing (don’t go crazy though). Slowing down the peels, and setting the tray to move a bit further during peels can help as well. I’ve been futzing with FEP and Siyara Blu now for a couple weeks and only JUST getting it properly tuned in.

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#4

I did a test yesterday that resulted in A= 10.1mm and C=9.9mm. B and D was just a flat disc in the VAT. Should I raise or lower the VAT in the B and D corner?
I do not have a heater but the room temperature is ~25C.

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#5

Depends on what caused the built plate release. Over or under curing can both cause poor layer adhesion, as well as poor leveling :\ I’m having similar issues myself right now, although in my case I’m getting half the print on the plate and half the print in the vat (layer separation on an SLA, WTF!)

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#6

Is the FEP vat intended for use with the standard plate? I thought you needed to use the EZ level plate with it.

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#7

No, according to Peopoly you could use either one.
I have now done another test with the B and D positions lowered and actually got a result. It printed all the cylinders, though the B and D was very low. I have adjusted the VAT a bit more lower now and hopes that this might get me closer to a good result.

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#8

Got A,B, and C at 10mm now and the D corner at 4mm height. I have taken the lid off and adjusted the relationship between the build platform and the VAT to be the exact same height in all corners. Then I have readjusting corner by corner to get better these results. This is really time consuming but I am getting there!

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#9

Raise that build plate. Im at 11 which is quite but it totally prints.
Even a hair dryer to warm that junk up a tad. I think

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#10

Ok, will try that out tonight!

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#11

Try draining the vat before re-leveling it if you aren’t already doing that. I was unable to get my fep vat properly leveled while it contained resin. I removed the resin and bob became my uncle.

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