Heater Installation


#21

I installed the Peopoly heater unit ordered with my kit. Also added were a new power interface with on/off switch and a build chamber thermometer. The power supplies for both the Moai and heater were relocated inside the lower half of the system.

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The heater is mounted at the top left side of the build chamber, secured to a plate for the 20x20mm aluminum frame extrusions (available from many online suppliers). Wiring was run down behind the z-axis support bracket. The digital thermometer is mounted to the top of the Moai, with the temperature probe secured to another T-slot plate on the lower right side of the build chamber. It’s an inexpensive waterproof aquarium type unit also easily sourced online.

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The heater is powered on with the new switch on the back of the Moai in order to permit pre-heating the chamber separately from starting the printer. I find that the built-in thermostat in the heater module maintains the chamber between about 85 and 95 degrees F. With a 65 degree F room temp it takes about 15 minutes for the chamber temp to stabilize, resin comes up to temperature after about 30 minutes.

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Overall the results seem acceptable, we’ll see how it performs over time…


#22

@Bzeien would it be possible for you to share more photos or info about how you added the plug and power switch to the back? That looks really nice and I would love to be able to do something similar


#23

I used the two holes in the plate and drilled and tapped the heater for two M3 screws.
I also added a power connector to the back panel


#24

The power socket is available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511QVVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To make the hole, locate the area where you plan to install it, being certain there are no obstacles behind that spot (frame, wiring, etc.). Cover the area with blue painter’s tape to protect the black plastic panel. Draw the outline of the power socket on the tape to create a template. remove the plastic panel from the Moai. Gently drill holes at each corner of the cutout template large enough to fit the blade of a coping saw (I used 1/4"). Treat the plastic cutting like it is expensive wood, slow steady strokes, light pressure and cut along the template line. It took less than five minutes to make the cut out. Smooth the edges with a small flat file. The power socket should slide through the hole from the outside with the flange covering the edges of the cutout, leaving a nice finished appearance. The plastic sides are rather thick and the tabs on the power socket appear to be set for thinner metal panels. I removed the tabs on my socket and ran a thin bead of epoxy around the long edges of the socket at the rear (inside of the panel) to retain it in the panel. Let the epoxy cure, reinstall the panel onto the printer. The socket is in place for good, which wasn’t a concern for me as the fuse and switch are replaceable if either had an issue over time.

I located the two power bricks within the lower portion of the Moai. Power is supplied through a custom cable terminated in IEC C13 female plugs:

It works well as the heater is powered on with the switch on the power socket, letting the build chamber warm up without running the Moai electronics.


#25

There are many variations on type and design, but these plates worked well to install accessories onto the Moai aluminum frame:

The heater bolted directly to the plate without modification and the plate installed to the frame at the top of the build chamber with two M5x8 screws and t-nuts. This location at the top of the chamber prevents the heater fan from blowing onto the fresh parts as the build plate raises during the print.


#26

Thanks so much @Bzeien for all the details. That’s great information! I’ll definitely be trying this out.


#27

Continuing the discussion from Heater Installation:

Hello Tinkerman,
I agree that your solution is the best solution of all I read here. The free convection is very good for our jobs and if we want to speed the heating process we need only to increase the heater area surface (ribbs). Please tell me which is the model of the thermostat for the aluminium convector plate that you used. Thank you very much.


#28

@dor_55 Thank you for you comments. The type of thermostat I used for the heat plate is this one:

But in fact that is only because at that time I did not have the other type laying around. Otherwise I would have build two of the same thermostats into the top panel next to each other. For the sensor I used a 10 mm thick piece of aluminum (approx 15x25 mm) and tapped 2 holes in for fixation to the plate and drilled 1 hole for the sensor (in the other direction) that has been fixed with a tiny fixation bolt.

BTW: Speeding the heating process is indeed a matter of increasing the surface area of the convector plate, but especially increasing the (max) temperature of the plate plays a big role in the heating speed. I have set it to 80 degrees now and it heats up the entire build room to 37° within 7 minutes.


#29

Thank you very much.
I will setup my printer like this.
Now I prepare others verifications and changes and I will share with you and with everybody about these.
Now, I work about galvo protection and calibration.