Heater for build chamber


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They are very strong and are easily attached with CA. If you shop around, they can be quite inexpensive.


I thought about using a hermit crab terrarium heater. They are designed to be attached to the outside of plastic terraria, so they shouldn’t damage the acrylic. However, the issue was that they are small and probably wouldn’t transfer enough heat. A lizard tank under-substrate heater might work, but they are significantly bigger.


I´ve tried the under heater pad from my beard dragon and didn´t work, not even a difference in the temperature, I´ve also tried a heating pad to use on plants and only added 4ºC (from 15º to 19ºC) it gives less heat than the reptil pad but as it is bigger it manage to warm more. You need ventilation and more heat to warm more the Moai chamber.


@joostd How do you heat the resin and build platform first?


Because the space I work in is pretty chilly, I have a little plug in radiator under my computer desk. I put the resin and build platform on top of that to warm it up.
But I could see getting a cheap little toaster oven and warming that up first and then putting in the resin and build platform. I would shut the toaster oven off before you put the stuff in so you don’t start a fire. Or maybe just a simple heating pad or something like that.


You might try a water bath. We used to use dedicated temperature controlled bench top units to warm various chemicals, but for this purpose a sink full of hot water for 30 minutes will work. You could probably even warm the build platform this way, but just don’t let the water get onto the top surface (and dry well before use).


I have a heating pad for reptiles, Shouldn´t get to 40ºC might try that to heat the vat with resin. Thanks


I’ve had a lot of luck with K&J magnetics (https://www.kjmagnetics.com/), but it’s US based again, and I’m not sure what international shipping is like…

So what about thing thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131951655891?var=431294405559, and hooked it up with something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322091348605, and a fan? It seems like that’s all the necessary stuff, but I’m no electronics expert…


To add to this I would say to make sure that the sticky part of the heating pad is facing the spot you want to be heated because they are designed to dump most of the heat energy in one direction because otherwise there would be wasted heat coming out the bottom of the pad.


It looks like it needs a power supply/delivery board. It might work.


This looks like a great idea. Did you ever solve the issue of resin blowing around? If so please could you show what you did to solve the issue? I think this is a nice solution and I’m thinking I shall purchase one. Currently been using a gas heater to heat my room to temp 25,26 which isn’t the best option for me.


The fan is a low cfm model. If the heater is placed high enough in the build chamber, it won’t disturb the resin. And should not really blow resin drips off a print, unless perhaps you are using the full z-axis height on a model that really retains resin. It will move dust around, however, so the build chamber should be clean.


Thanks. I shall order one of these asap :slight_smile:


I have not put anything in front of the heater yet. I probably will though.
The fan does not blow very hard, but I did notice some small drops of resin inside the build chamber though. Nothing too concerning, but still. Keep in mind though that I do print a lot of very tall pieces, that only just fit the height of the build volume. I also let it run overnight, so once the print is done and the build platform raises to the top, the blower does blow on it a little bit.
If you print smaller things and turn off the heater when the print is done, I don’t think you will have any problems at all.
I have been under the weather for almost a week, so have not gotten much done at all and with Christmas coming up, I don’t think I will get to doing the plate until early next year. I will post pictures when I do though.


I was wondering (I am not near my printer now) if it would be possible to mount the heater in the top of the build chamber blowing downwards. IIRC, there might be enough clearance between the build surface/z-axis arm and the front and top acrylic plates to shoehorn the heater in. This might solve the “tall model spatter problem” and the build surface should shield the vat. If there is room, then the question is whether it could be reliably mounted without drilling through the acrylic. Thoughts?


I actually had not thought of that! I am in the middle of a print, so I can’t really check on that right now either. I did just look in the chamber and I think it might be just a little too tight (can’t say for sure because my build plate is not up top). Especially considering that the fan needs to be away from the top enough to allow for airflow into the fan. I will take a closer look when my print is done.
Mounting it with magnest, might allow you to mount it a bit higher than with the clips that I used. This might help with the airflow not reaching the build platform in the same direction.


I haven’t taken a picture but I cut a hole in the side of my printer and mounted the incubator heater through the wall. I mounted it as high and far back as I could. I can see how it might be a problem for really tall prints but I’ll cross that bridge with a fan deflector if that becomes a problem.

(I did the right side, left side would have been better because I could have mounted farther back).

It’s nice to not have an overpowered space heater pointed at my printer for a change!


ok this Heater really works!! from 15Cº to 34ºC in 30 minutes (to 26º in 15mts)

it fits really nice inside the chaimber, and the airflow is soft, a piece of paper wont move much in front of it.
Tip: Don´t cover the fan it has, like pressing it agains the wall panel, doing so made the temp only go to 18ºC
But… it doesn´t have a thermostat, the temperature would probably still raise more with more time but i didn´t want to know as Mark said to not go more than 40º, it was already obvious that I need to get a Thermostat to switch it off at certain temp. So next step is to do that.


Could you have cut a hole in the top too I wonder? I know it would be much harder to read the screen that way, but you would not get the airflow on the build platform.


Maybe but I didn’t think about it before hacking holes in things.